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Clean Grain Auger Replacement ??

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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
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    Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 6:45pm
I was looking over the augers (clean/tailings) this afternoon and am quite sure they could use replacing (razor sharp flighting). For those that have done this project, how do you get the augers out of the "boots" ? Do you drill out the rivets that attatch the galvanized elevators to the black steel boots that attatch to the auger tubes ? This happens to be on an F2. Thanks
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AC7060IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 6:53pm
After you remove auger’s drive chain, rotate auger & elevator chain to locate elevator chain’s connection link. Remove that connection link. Then unbolt bolt ends of auger’s bearing flanges & remove bearings from auger shaft. Then grind off flush, the outer surface of the boot’s rivets where the boot attaches to the elevator. Then, take correct size punch & hammer each rivet into & thru it’s hole. Other end of boot slides onto auger’s tube.

On reassembly, you can re-rivet or use stainless steel stove bolts to reattach boot to elevator.


Edited by AC7060IL - 17 Aug 2019 at 6:56pm
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 7:07pm
Thanks. So the entire elevator is not needed to be removed off of the sides of the machine, just somewhat "moved" out of the way ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2019 at 10:57pm
I take things apart at top of clean grain and remove whole thing.You have to remove grain chain (watch out!!) and of course the bearing on outer end of boot. Return would be real easy. Is your clean grain trough wore through yet?. I used a piece of an auger liner made for IH rotory.  Worst part is getting shoe out and in the have room to work. Have an F2.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 8:10am
SteveM, I haven't crawled under yet to look,kinda scared to LOL!!  I figured if the auger was wearing out, the trough won't be far behind Unhappy . We only run 33-34 acres/year depending on drown-out areas, looking like less than 33 this fall Cry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 8:27am
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Thanks. So the entire elevator is not needed to be removed off of the sides of the machine, just somewhat "moved" out of the way ?


Yes the galvanized elevator & its chain can stay put. It’s chain will stay put as long as you secure it (wire it offf at top or secure grain tank cross auger so it can’t turn).

Lower elevator boot, once riveted are removed , can be jimmed away from elevator while rotating & twisting it from clean grain auger tube.

A handy torch helps remove stubborn bearings.

This job usually progresses??? While cross auger is removed, inspect/replace clean grain elevator’s sprockets(driver sprocket on lower auger & driven sprocket on upper stub shaft). Inspect/replace upper elevator’s stub shaft bearings too. Inspect/replace grain tank’s cross auger bearings too. Inspect/replace/repair worn lower boot door and elevator’s upper head assembly “grain well”. The “grain well” (nomenclature?) is where grain is deposited at the upper head from elevator paddles. Grain tank auger then moves grain from “grain well” into grain tank. The moving grain will wear off galvanized coating exposing bare metal. Any fines or grain lying in the “grain well’s” floor that is not taken away by auger will collect moisture, corrode, & developer holes. JBweld Gray cold weld epoxy putty works great to repair these holes.
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