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Jaybird14 
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Joined: 14 Jul 2019
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 26
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 Topic: WD not running well
Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 9:26pm |
I totally jacked someone else's thread... i am sorry. we had similar problems and i thought we could learn together and not clutter up the forum.
what i did today is completely un-scientific but she ended up running strong. ( for now.. lol)
I pulled my valve cover and checked the rocker - valve spacing. i needed to tighten the two most outer valves.
drained the fuel tank . removed it and tried to rinse any loose crud out.
Changed my points ,cond. and rotor again.
The first one i purchased was from a local "farm" store part no. ATK1DCR with a second # 110319 ran like crap.
second one with the same ATK1DCR but a different #070119 from Steiner. Ran outstanding!!! again at least for today :) drove around not missing a beat.
a note to the guy who started " dad's 45 sputters" sorry i jumped in i was just trying to help us both.
you all have a great night.
Jaybird
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18699
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Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 9:00pm |
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Glad you got yours fixed.
We all have to learn the etiquette of the forum. It's just one of those things.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 3:31am |
Jay, Glad you got your tractor working well or better. If you get a chance post some pictures too! I have seen these tractors fun when it seems they shouldn't! Yes some of the parts today could be suspect too! You made a bunch of the right moves to get it running better. Fuel checked, spark checked and valves set! Awesome! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Jaybird14
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Joined: 14 Jul 2019
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 26
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Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 5:44am |
I will try and get some pics this weekend. i have my two bottom plow and loader mounted right now.
Next step is freshen up my wiring.
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bhaynes
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Joined: 23 Feb 2019
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Points: 105
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Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 2:05pm |
Hey Jay,
I understand the hijacking the thread. I jumped in with you regarding my WD. Glad to know what you did and thanks for posting / starting a new thread on this. I am going to replace my carburetor first as it needs to be replaced and see how it runs with that.
Short Story: After I fully restored my WD, I couldn't get it started for the life of me. So I trailered it to a local tractor shop and they got it running. They said everything was good but the valves. I had them too tight and they had to loosen them. - However, It still runs rough to me so I am wondering if they didn't follow the manual I provided and make them to specifics? I believe it said 0.10"? I may need to check that if still running rough after carburetor.
I did clean out and reline the inside of the tank. New bowl, fuel line, etc.. Everything has been completely replaced or "rebuilt". But the carburetor. LOL
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bhaynes
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Joined: 23 Feb 2019
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Points: 105
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Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 5:11pm |
Hey Everybody - Here is a link to the video I just took. It's hard to hear and hopefully you can. But it runs like this idle and in full throttle. Just seems rough and not smooth. You will notice the Throttle lever will move on it's own and sometimes rougher than what is on the video. Hopefully you can hear this. When it's held in place, the engine seems to run pretty smooth. When I let go, it seems to JUST get by. LOL
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garden_guy
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Points: 1113
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Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 6:16pm |
Oh wow bhaynes, that reminds me of what my tractor was doing a few years ago. Here's video of it at low idle:
I thought it was an intermittent miss. I ended up taking the gas tank off and cleaning it out (painful) and repacking the sediment bowl stem and then cleaned a bunch of gunk from the carb and got a new sediment bowl screen.
I had a ton of rust in my gas tank (see above). I bought like 3 pounds of nuts and bolts at a farm store and rolled it around in the tank (by hand) every night for like a week, multiple times a day. And just kept getting more and more crap out. Then cleaned the sediment bowl and carb. After re-assembly, she's been running good.
Yours sounds like it may be that, or just missing on a cylinder? Hard to tell from the video, but reminds me of mine. Especially since you've redone everything but the carb now... May just be a plugged jet or junk in the bowl?
Edited by garden_guy - 20 Jul 2019 at 6:18pm
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bhaynes
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Joined: 23 Feb 2019
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Points: 105
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Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 6:30pm |
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Video a little dark, but the engine sounds good. Mine def. doesn’t sound like that! The gas tank is clean and the bowl is brand new. Bought a new one during the restore. Fuel is flowing clean and good to the carb. It’s either the carb or the valves or not sure.
Is the throttle lever supposed to be jerking free back and fourth like that on its own?
Anybody have a video of their WD for comparison?
Thanks!
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Jaybird14
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Joined: 14 Jul 2019
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 26
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Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 6:59am |
 bhaynes wrote:
Hey Jay,
I understand the hijacking the thread. I jumped in with you regarding my WD. Glad to know what you did and thanks for posting / starting a new thread on this. I am going to replace my carburetor first as it needs to be replaced and see how it runs with that.
Short Story: After I fully restored my WD, I couldn't get it started for the life of me. So I trailered it to a local tractor shop and they got it running. They said everything was good but the valves. I had them too tight and they had to loosen them. - However, It still runs rough to me so I am wondering if they didn't follow the manual I provided and make them to specifics? I believe it said 0.10"? I may need to check that if still running rough after carburetor.
I did clean out and reline the inside of the tank. New bowl, fuel line, etc.. Everything has been completely replaced or "rebuilt". But the carburetor. LOL |
Don't ever worry about "hacking" a thread of mine. life is way too short for that. lol I believe i set my valves at .012
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Jaybird14
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 7:08am |
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i see you have a new manifold on your. Mine is a disaster. the studs are all rusted up. how big of a pain is it going to be to cut the rusty nuts and pull, replace the manifold studs.?
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Jaybird14
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 8:00am |
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
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Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 9:35am |
Jay, Good looking WD, loader and 2 bottom plows! (Warning) Manifold studs sometimes break off in the head. Be careful as you remove them, give blaster, or penetrate of your choice, time to work on the head to stud interface. Remember these studs go right into the cooling chamber, so drain your coolant first. When you get the new studs they will need sealant on the stud threads into the head. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4380
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Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 10:36am |
Jaybird14 wrote:
i see you have a new manifold on your. Mine is a disaster. the studs are all rusted up. how big of a pain is it going to be to cut the rusty nuts and pull, replace the manifold studs.? |
If it runs, try taking out and running it hard, then try to remove the nuts/studs while it is hot.
If not try heating them with a torch. Do not twist them off in the head. If you do, it's a PITA.
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bhaynes
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Joined: 23 Feb 2019
Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 11:16am |
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Hey Jaybird!
Sorry for the delay. Half of mine broke off. The manifold studs were honestly probably the hardest restore on the tractor. I had to go buy a “Stud Extractor” from Autozone (I think). Note/advice: make sure you spray lots of WD or whatever you prefer over a few days. THEN, make sure you place the extractor directly against the head to twist off. The closer you can get it, the less likely it’ll break off.
If it does, you’ll have to drill out the hole and blah blah GOOD LUCK! :-) LOL
Hope this helps
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Jaybird14
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 12:58pm |
I'm not sure i am up for that this season. my stuff all works it would be cosmetic. thanks for the tips.
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