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need to use screwdriver to start d-19

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snag View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 6:43am
So, i got my second starter in and this one was good on the bench test.   Got it in and hit the key , nothing.   so tried the jump the selinoid with a screwdriver trick and it would turn over.   Does this mean my selinoid is bad??
Thanks
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 7:21am
It could be a bad starter switch, a broken wire, bad ground on the solenoid, or bad solenoid. Did you jump cable to cable, or battery cable terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid? Cable to cable bypasses the solenoid. Battery to small terminal energizes the solenoid and if that worked the solenoid is likely ok. See if you have power to the start terminal of the solenoid when you turn the key, or push the button. If you have power check the solenoid ground but the solenoid is likely bad. If no power work backwards from the solenoid to the switch to find out where the power stops.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 8:07am
Will do tonight, thanks Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 8:08am
Is the tractor gas or Diesel?
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 12:25pm
its a gasser
 
so the selinoid needs to be grounded to the tractor?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 12:26pm
Jim i went cable to cable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 12:51pm
the small wire is suppose to have 12 volts when you push the START button ( or key).. That pulls in the solenoid and makes contact between the TWO BIG WIRES.. another test is to couch the battery cable (BIG) to the small cable and see if the 12 v on the small wire will pull in the solenoid... if YES, then your key / wire / etc is bad... if NO, then solenoid is probably bad........ if you have only 1 small wire, then it is the 12 v and the solenoid case is grounded.. If you have two small wires, then it has its own external ground wire.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 1:10pm
re:
If you have two small wires, then it has its own external ground wire.

there is another possibility....

on old Ford starter solenoids( think '67 mustangs...) the 2nd small lug is actually full 12volts to the coil. it bypasses the 'resistance wire or 'ballast wire' aka ballast resistor ,allowing for a hotter spark. Once engine is running, power goes through ballast wire.

and of course snow plow solenoids are yet another TWO  versions of the 'black box with 4 studs.....
sigh...
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 5:45pm
The original solenoid grounded through its base mounting. If it is a round one, often with a metal case, having a single small terminal that is the original type.   Make sure the solenoid mounting has good clean contact with metal for ground. 12-volt power applied to the small terminal should energize the solenoid. As Steve mentioned jump between the battery cable and the small terminal. If it works then the problem is the wire between the solenoid and the switch, or the switch. The wiring diagram says the wire between the solenoid and switch is white (originally).

If the solenoid has been changed to one that looks like an older Ford solenoid with two terminals, look closely beside the small terminals. Usually, near each terminal, there will be an “S” for start and an “I” or “R” for the resistor bypass terminal for starting. The bypass doesn’t need to be hooked up as it didn’t exist originally.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

re:

there is another possibility....

on old Ford starter solenoids( think '67 mustangs...) the 2nd small lug is actually full 12volts to the coil. it bypasses the 'resistance wire or 'ballast wire' aka ballast resistor ,allowing for a hotter spark. Once engine is running, power goes through ballast wire.
sigh...
Jay
Jay
Like Jay said above.
This is the type solenoid you need for the latter ser# D19 gas tractors
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 8:38pm
I'm not familiar with a D-19, but do you have to have the clutch depressed to start it? I've had the switch on the clutch pedal go bad on one of my 180's. Push the button and nothing. Bypassed the clutch switch and it started right up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 9:12pm
No switch on the clutch pedal.

Don is correct on two different solenoids used. Prior to S/N 14742 the single small terminal # 0261441-0 was used. 14742 and up had the resistor bypass added and used solenoid 0241265-8 with two small terminals. The wiring diagram in the service manual only shows the early wiring without the bypass. The parts catalog does show both solenoids. Thanks for mentioning that Don.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 9:29pm
I forgot to say that one of the two solenoids are not even sold by AGCO now and I don't remember if it the late ser. # or early ser. # solenoid. 

Edited by Don(MO) - 10 Dec 2018 at 9:29pm
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomNE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2018 at 10:42pm
D19 didn't have a safety switch on the clutch!   Our diesel needed starting fluid every morning when it was new.  I always started it from the ground.
AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snag Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2018 at 4:51am
So that was it, i had a one wire selinoid and grounded it to the frame, and it now starts as it should. Thanks Much for all the help
Mike
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