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mark vaughn 
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 Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 8:02pm |
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Good looking stuff man. I love that classic 78 Snapon tool box. Thats when i finished high school in 1978. Show more when you get time. THANKS MARK.
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mattb
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Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 10:08am |
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Im getting ready to put together an engine with MW 4.125 pistons with d17 rods and 226 crank. I have them set at 11.5 to 1 and gonna run E85 u think thats too high of compression?
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wi50
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Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 11:15am |
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I run an almost identical setup but I cut my pistons to quench and 11.25 compression. I trimmed the tops just a bit for a .010 popup above the liner and took the rest out of the bowls and cut valve relief areas.
I did a pretty good head, manifold, cam and worked over a Minne Mo carb for the engine.
Works great but we need to rember we have old cast pistons.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey
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Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 5:21pm |
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Kb 4.185 pistons now I know he has a been reading my old posts. Enjoy someone carrying on my efforts. A 403 at 14.1.1 compression was a 1998 natpa champ as well
Edited by mlpankey - 15 Feb 2012 at 5:44pm
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mlpankey
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Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 6:23pm |
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Marty tell the guy your building the 403 for that I recommend him to purchase your tractor. After all he will have the same amount in it and its your first attempt at a stroke that large.I do want to commend you on accepting the challenge I gave you a year or so ago when I posted the only reason you didn't run stroke was you didn't know how. Seams you are listening and will see the advantage if it upon completion.
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Rod B
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Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 7:29pm |
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Wi built my engine years ago pank and I know of others he has done. Mine is 4.65 bore and 6.25 stroke. Don't give us any of your drama.
I am building my new engine and had wi do the head. G-Tool is makeing the crank to overcome the problems associated with useing a standard breathing and fireing order.
Pank, you are full of BS and don't even pull. You haven't built anything that works. Ol BT told me that himself
Edited by Rod B - 23 Feb 2012 at 8:21am
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acwdwcman
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Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 8:38pm |
i dont like to get in this drama crap but panky why dont you just quit being jealous. n shut your mouth and go build something your way (the non- running way) instead of telling others how to make a pos engine.
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wd with a freeman model 90 trip loader, wd45, 38 unstylled wc, b 10 garden tractor and 2-14 ac trip plow. grandpa has a 56 wd45. wd. allis chalmers snap coupler blade and 3 bottom snap coupler plow
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Rod B
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Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 9:57pm |
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I know a lot of stupid people who can build an engine. Pankey is one of them, but it takes intelligence to build a good engine that performs well and lasts. That is why a guy like Marty or Barney can build great engines and pank has nothing to show or pull. He's all talk. Ask anyone in his area that knows him.
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wi50
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Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 10:04am |
 mlpankey wrote:
Marty tell the guy your building the 403 for that I recommend him to purchase your tractor. After all he will have the same amount in it and its your first attempt at a stroke that large.I do want to commend you on accepting the challenge I gave you a year or so ago when I posted the only reason you didn't run stroke was you didn't know how. Seams you are listening and will see the advantage if it upon completion. |
No, the fella has to run low RPM, some MPH pulling, and my old engine isn't going to work for that. I've put togather a few large engines. So, no it is not my first attempt at any kind of large stroke engine you nit wit. I just never had any use for one myself, no real desire to do any of that type of pulling.
The cost of that large engine really is not that bad, I'll lay it out for those interested in nice round numbers.
$150 for me to make the liners from good take out diesel liners.
$500 by the time the block gets bored, liners installed and bored, honed and decked
$250 in grinding a cam, lifters, shipping etc.
$750 to weld and grind the stroker crank.
$300 worth of rods, heat treating and machine work to them
$200 to balance the assembly.
$500 for pistons and rings
$300 worth of berrings, gaskets, msc parts, block sealer, etc
So it's about a $3000 short block assembly out of pocket minus labor, but if a guy gets to work, the time to do it all isn't that bad. We can spend a lot more, buying different parts, or depending on what a fella has or gets his hands on reasonable or wants to buy custom.
Now the cylinder head, manifold, carb, and the work in them, rocker arms and ignition can cost as much or more as the parts in the rest of the engine.
The reality of it is fella's is that it's not that hard to build a large stroker engine. What is so different than any other engine? There is additional work in cutting clearance for things, but it's a simple matter of marking out where things are hitting or going to hit, putting the block in the mill and cutting away. Check, mark, cut more and grind when done. Degreeing a cam is the same practice weather the engine is going to run 2100 RPM or 6000 RPM, just different settings. Though I've got a lot less parts to bolt togather on that large displacement engine than I do in my old engine.
If I use a custom connecting rod like in Rod B's engine then clearance is easier. But getting 5.75 stroke and clearance with a Farmall H type rod is easy, but getting much past that out to 6" then I have to play a few tricks and countersink the rod bolts. By the time I cut rods and clearnace a block the extra, one may as well buy custom connecting rods from Murphy or G-Tool.
I realize that it is magic for a guy like pankey, but the reality of it is that it's just a few extra hours machining on rods, block, sleves, etc. I suppose the magic comes in in makeing a reliable package. It's more fun to go pull than it is to sit at home on your computer.
Now an engine like in the purpose of this thread where I'm building a high RPM engine is a lot more work. Look at all the work it takes to tie a bottom end togather to take the stress. How much work would one care to guess has to go into a cylinder head and manifold package to be able to fill a cylinder at high speed? How many hundred hours does one spend messing around with all those type of parts? I don't know but the reward in some things is the doing of it.
I was down at G-Tool last week. Neat stuff and Ryan is a good guy.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey
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Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 3:03pm |
<FONT style=": #000000">hmm not building a 403 to rpm . You going to tighten the clearances to tight or what? You really should try one . I don't think you can buy 4 promod pistons and the promod rings. 043 .043 3mm low tension oil for 500 either.
Edited by mlpankey - 16 Feb 2012 at 7:45pm
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allismanamp
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Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 12:23pm |
i was wondering if you had a 500 dollars and a stock d17 gas engine what is the best thing to do to try and get more hp? hoping the fella that has 5 ntpa wins under his belt could comment that tractor makes me grin so great espessiallly when i see it on rfd tv pulling and beating all them green and red tractors thats amazing he beat everyone else by 40 feet at the pull off i think he definitly knows what he is doing keep the that thing roar in friend 
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Rod B
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 2:41pm |
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With a $500 budget you can buy a lot of magazines and be an internet puller like pankey. Don't actually go pull but tell everyone how to. It's a good way to boost self esteam and get others to laugh at you.
Or you could find a set of te taller wd or wc pistons to put in and get a decent cam grind. Go have some fun.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 5:02pm |
Rod B wrote:
With a $500 budget you can buy a lot of magazines and be an internet puller like pankey. Don't actually go pull but tell everyone how to. It's a good way to boost self esteam and get others to laugh at you.
Or you could find a set of te taller wd or wc pistons to put in and get a decent cam grind. Go have some fun. |
rod I pull as much as your parts man does. He must have decided that soft rod material is what bent my rods I stead of what he argued .he argued it was rod ratio but his last post on the 403cleaning has money figured for flame hardening rods.who will be next to search my old post and retype them as theirs?
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wi50
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 8:38pm |
We don't have to worry now do we. The first set of rods I heat treated was on a Farmall engine a friend and I worked on in high school. His dad ran a large tool and die shop. We would go there and learn when we could. Today the man owns a large food processing equimpnet manufacturing business.
So when I want something heat treated, I stop in and leave the parts. Stop back in a few days or a week and pick things up. I had the rods heat treated in my old Allis engine and being it's so little trouble I have them done in just about any application where there is going to be excessive stress on them.
Now I could run numbers all day and explain stresses and G-loads and why a rod will fail, buy why waste my time. Overloaded parts are still overloaded parts and that is why some verry weak parts failed for pankey. It doesn't take much to bend stock buda rods now does it fella's, they have bent in stock engines. Put them in a poor ratio and it takes even less to bend them. Detonate your engine, show us the sparkplugs on public forum and it's not hard to see why the village idiot is jealous of the rest of us.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Rod B
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 9:25pm |
WI50, I looked up your buddy pankey to see if I could find any pulling results. All I can find is some 4th or 6th place finishes against similar tractors. He's 80 and 90 feet behind the leaders. Someone down there must really have a souped up WC or John Deere A as they really put a whoopin on pank. Just think WI, you had built that engine of yours and ran it years before pank had those impressive results.
I'm amuseing myself again at pankey's expense.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Feb 2012 at 7:09pm |
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Most
Of my competition is slivers.
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Unstylish
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 6:37am |
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Ohh..I hit a nerve..well I guess you would be sensitive to leaching wouldn't you, union boy.....at least I learn something...its been a few years and a few motors and obviously you haven't learned a thing...even your AC "friends" don't like you...give it up...rodb has you pegged right, and he's a pretty intelligent guy.....
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BobHnwO
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:24am |
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You guys a worse than a bunch of back bitein old women,you need your own TV show,since you seem to have forgot,this is a Tractor site!!!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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wi50
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 10:11am |
great, another good thread ruined by our village idiot.
I'm probably going to do a thread on some cylinder head work in the short future. I'd like to share some practices and methods that improve things beyond the normal work being done. How I cut access to the inside water jacket and fix the problem areas to start with so I can port the head in a different way. I posted some of it in the past but didn't have good pictures. Hopefully this time it turns out to be drama free.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mark vaughn
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:14pm |
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wi50 I would be very interested in seeing that problem corrected in some pictures. And also would like to know what brand of head would it be on ? Thanks Mark
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mark vaughn
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:33pm |
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To Rod B, Also would like to Know what brand tractor you pull and what weight class ? All the pictures wi50 posts has really made it interested to me.
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allismanamp
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:00pm |
what is the cheapest mod to make to a d17 motor on a 500 dollar budget hoping a good puller could give me incite i have a bone stock motor right now and i have heard the trick about putting the RC rear end in and i have put the button clutch in and wd 45 diesel pressure plate now im going to go into the belly of the beast but don't know where to start want something dependable that will be a usable engine still i use it for plowing and pulling the hay racks still but. i heard of m&w pistons and sleeves i heard about leroy cranks what is the best thing to start with valves?cam?pistons?ignition wi50 whats your opinion carberator? govener?????????any help is great thanks guys 
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~AMP~
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wi50
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:45pm |
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.Well $500 doesn't go far, but it depends on how handy you are and what you can find laying around or real cheap.
The best place to start is a decent cam grind, some light manifold porting and a bit of head work. I have a set of 8 to 1 compression pistons real cheap, there's better options if you were willing to do just a bit more work.
I can only assume you want to run on pump gas all the time and depending on how much actual work you use the tractor for you could use some WC-WD pistons which are taller and would boost compression if you were willing to blend the gas or go to E-85.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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wi50
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Posted: 04 Nov 2012 at 6:41am |
Unstylish wrote:
Metal slivers from tearing apart blown motors or wood slivers from j*cking off to wi50's posts n pics? |
I went back reading through this thread today and started laughing. Then I seen this. I'm almost done in the fields for the year and I'd like to add some pictures to it sometime of other items finished up when I get some time. Billet timeing cover, some of the 5 mains in the block, the girdle assembly, etc. Would the moderators please move this thread to the pulling forum also. I think several members asking questions should read through it. It might answer a few of their questions as well as help them form some opinions.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 8:27am |
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If wishes were horses, beggars would ride.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 10:05am |
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Wi hows the big inch motor running . Should be running now since work started around sept 2010. two years ago surely its been competing for at least a year
Edited by mlpankey - 20 Nov 2012 at 10:06am
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Rod B
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 11:18am |
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This project started last year. Fool.
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 11:26am |
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 11:54am |
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feb 2012 should be ready for first freshen by feb 13 after this seasons pulling right
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Gary
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 1:17pm |
Here we go AGAIN Where is the MODERATOR. Time to shut some members down and end this nonsense once and for all. Gary
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