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mlpankey 
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 Topic: crossbreeding
Posted: 30 Nov 2012 at 11:07pm |
 Rod B wrote:
One must overcome connecting rod flex before contemplating anothers push rod flex. Push rods are easy to change. |
i just thought i would bring up.someting you do alot of to see what the answere might be
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Rod B
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Location: Peoria
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Posted: 30 Nov 2012 at 1:39pm |
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One must overcome connecting rod flex before contemplating anothers push rod flex. Push rods are easy to change.
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Larry W.
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Posted: 30 Nov 2012 at 1:18pm |
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www.pushrods.net pretty simple and common solution. Order them Wednesday they're here by Friday.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 30 Nov 2012 at 12:11pm |
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Since the 226 roller lifter projects up and going how much did you increase the diameter of the pushrod to strengthen them to overcome flex due to there length and now having to overcome valve springs designed for roller cam use?
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wi50
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Posted: 23 Nov 2012 at 9:20am |
It's probalby in everyone's best intrest if I do not show any of the parts. It's a neat project as many pointed out. I enjoy working on it now and then, but pictures have proven to be to traumatic for some viewers. I don't work on it much as the alky super takes priority. For those who have an understanding of language and communication skills my prior posts explain that it is mine, not for someone. Though my goal is to have it out for the National GOTO when it's hosted near me.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey
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Posted: 21 Nov 2012 at 7:24am |
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Patient customer.
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Rod B
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 8:44pm |
mlpankey wrote:
Gary wrote:
Here we go AGAIN
Where is the MODERATOR.
Time to shut some members down and end this nonsense once and for all.
Gary |
A fellow cant ask another how his engine is running in november that was a project in feburary? |
No where did he say it would be done last year. In fact he refrences working on it and wanting to share progress. Unlike pankey who promised to put his back togather and show us. Simple minds ask simple questions. They could read the answers for themselves.
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AC200Puller
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 6:48pm |
 Looks good ! I really enjoy seeing quality work done. So many people that enjoy tractor pulls have no clue how much work goes in a machine to make them run the way they do. Keep up the good work and keep us updated.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 1:25pm |
Gary wrote:
Here we go AGAIN
Where is the MODERATOR.
Time to shut some members down and end this nonsense once and for all.
Gary |
A fellow cant ask another how his engine is running in november that was a project in feburary?
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Gary
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 1:17pm |
Here we go AGAIN Where is the MODERATOR. Time to shut some members down and end this nonsense once and for all. Gary
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 11:54am |
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feb 2012 should be ready for first freshen by feb 13 after this seasons pulling right
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 11:26am |
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Rod B
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 11:18am |
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This project started last year. Fool.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 10:05am |
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Wi hows the big inch motor running . Should be running now since work started around sept 2010. two years ago surely its been competing for at least a year
Edited by mlpankey - 20 Nov 2012 at 10:06am
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 20 Nov 2012 at 8:27am |
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If wishes were horses, beggars would ride.
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wi50
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Posted: 04 Nov 2012 at 6:41am |
Unstylish wrote:
Metal slivers from tearing apart blown motors or wood slivers from j*cking off to wi50's posts n pics? |
I went back reading through this thread today and started laughing. Then I seen this. I'm almost done in the fields for the year and I'd like to add some pictures to it sometime of other items finished up when I get some time. Billet timeing cover, some of the 5 mains in the block, the girdle assembly, etc. Would the moderators please move this thread to the pulling forum also. I think several members asking questions should read through it. It might answer a few of their questions as well as help them form some opinions.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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wi50
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:45pm |
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.Well $500 doesn't go far, but it depends on how handy you are and what you can find laying around or real cheap.
The best place to start is a decent cam grind, some light manifold porting and a bit of head work. I have a set of 8 to 1 compression pistons real cheap, there's better options if you were willing to do just a bit more work.
I can only assume you want to run on pump gas all the time and depending on how much actual work you use the tractor for you could use some WC-WD pistons which are taller and would boost compression if you were willing to blend the gas or go to E-85.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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allismanamp
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 8:00pm |
what is the cheapest mod to make to a d17 motor on a 500 dollar budget hoping a good puller could give me incite i have a bone stock motor right now and i have heard the trick about putting the RC rear end in and i have put the button clutch in and wd 45 diesel pressure plate now im going to go into the belly of the beast but don't know where to start want something dependable that will be a usable engine still i use it for plowing and pulling the hay racks still but. i heard of m&w pistons and sleeves i heard about leroy cranks what is the best thing to start with valves?cam?pistons?ignition wi50 whats your opinion carberator? govener?????????any help is great thanks guys 
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~AMP~
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mark vaughn
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:33pm |
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To Rod B, Also would like to Know what brand tractor you pull and what weight class ? All the pictures wi50 posts has really made it interested to me.
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mark vaughn
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:14pm |
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wi50 I would be very interested in seeing that problem corrected in some pictures. And also would like to know what brand of head would it be on ? Thanks Mark
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wi50
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 10:11am |
great, another good thread ruined by our village idiot.
I'm probably going to do a thread on some cylinder head work in the short future. I'd like to share some practices and methods that improve things beyond the normal work being done. How I cut access to the inside water jacket and fix the problem areas to start with so I can port the head in a different way. I posted some of it in the past but didn't have good pictures. Hopefully this time it turns out to be drama free.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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BobHnwO
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 7:24am |
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You guys a worse than a bunch of back bitein old women,you need your own TV show,since you seem to have forgot,this is a Tractor site!!!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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Unstylish
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Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 6:37am |
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Ohh..I hit a nerve..well I guess you would be sensitive to leaching wouldn't you, union boy.....at least I learn something...its been a few years and a few motors and obviously you haven't learned a thing...even your AC "friends" don't like you...give it up...rodb has you pegged right, and he's a pretty intelligent guy.....
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Feb 2012 at 7:09pm |
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Most
Of my competition is slivers.
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Rod B
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 9:25pm |
WI50, I looked up your buddy pankey to see if I could find any pulling results. All I can find is some 4th or 6th place finishes against similar tractors. He's 80 and 90 feet behind the leaders. Someone down there must really have a souped up WC or John Deere A as they really put a whoopin on pank. Just think WI, you had built that engine of yours and ran it years before pank had those impressive results.
I'm amuseing myself again at pankey's expense.
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wi50
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 8:38pm |
We don't have to worry now do we. The first set of rods I heat treated was on a Farmall engine a friend and I worked on in high school. His dad ran a large tool and die shop. We would go there and learn when we could. Today the man owns a large food processing equimpnet manufacturing business.
So when I want something heat treated, I stop in and leave the parts. Stop back in a few days or a week and pick things up. I had the rods heat treated in my old Allis engine and being it's so little trouble I have them done in just about any application where there is going to be excessive stress on them.
Now I could run numbers all day and explain stresses and G-loads and why a rod will fail, buy why waste my time. Overloaded parts are still overloaded parts and that is why some verry weak parts failed for pankey. It doesn't take much to bend stock buda rods now does it fella's, they have bent in stock engines. Put them in a poor ratio and it takes even less to bend them. Detonate your engine, show us the sparkplugs on public forum and it's not hard to see why the village idiot is jealous of the rest of us.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 5:02pm |
Rod B wrote:
With a $500 budget you can buy a lot of magazines and be an internet puller like pankey. Don't actually go pull but tell everyone how to. It's a good way to boost self esteam and get others to laugh at you.
Or you could find a set of te taller wd or wc pistons to put in and get a decent cam grind. Go have some fun. |
rod I pull as much as your parts man does. He must have decided that soft rod material is what bent my rods I stead of what he argued .he argued it was rod ratio but his last post on the 403cleaning has money figured for flame hardening rods.who will be next to search my old post and retype them as theirs?
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Rod B
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Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 2:41pm |
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With a $500 budget you can buy a lot of magazines and be an internet puller like pankey. Don't actually go pull but tell everyone how to. It's a good way to boost self esteam and get others to laugh at you.
Or you could find a set of te taller wd or wc pistons to put in and get a decent cam grind. Go have some fun.
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allismanamp
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Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 12:23pm |
i was wondering if you had a 500 dollars and a stock d17 gas engine what is the best thing to do to try and get more hp? hoping the fella that has 5 ntpa wins under his belt could comment that tractor makes me grin so great espessiallly when i see it on rfd tv pulling and beating all them green and red tractors thats amazing he beat everyone else by 40 feet at the pull off i think he definitly knows what he is doing keep the that thing roar in friend 
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mlpankey
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Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 3:03pm |
<FONT style=": #000000">hmm not building a 403 to rpm . You going to tighten the clearances to tight or what? You really should try one . I don't think you can buy 4 promod pistons and the promod rings. 043 .043 3mm low tension oil for 500 either.
Edited by mlpankey - 16 Feb 2012 at 7:45pm
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