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adding a return hydraulic remote to a wd

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ANDY T View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 1:39pm
good afternoon,

i would like to add return line so I can use double acting rams. I'm not really sure what I can do to do this? I know I could change the ram and make it a single acting ram but i occasionally will use my 175 on them as well so would rather keep them double acting.    can i just run a remote and it return to the hydraulic filler?     sorry if this has been discussed already I've tried searching but didn't see a clear answer.   I'm not a hydraulic guru by any means....
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jvin248 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jvin248 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 2:28pm
.

Youtube channel Ontario Vintage Tractor has several videos on adding two-way hydraulics to their WD (to run a round baler). Here is one of them, then poke around their channel home page to find the others.


The common note on WD hydraulic projects is to know the WD pump is 'high pressure, low volume' while more modern tractors have 'low pressure, high volume' systems -- so the implements move slower.

.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 6:15pm
Implements not only move slower, but if there isn't a built in pressure relief on the 2 way valve you use, you can get WAY higher tonnage from a standard 2 way cylinder.
 Most 2 way valves do have such a built in relief though.
If I was doing it I would add a diverter valve, and run the lift arms and standard remote of one side, while running you 2 way valve off the other side of the diverter.
 That way, you just flip the diverter to use the 2 way, and the lift arms stay where they are at the time.
 I set my 45 up with a diverter, that can be switched form lift arms, to remote, to the loader. Now I can have a blade on back and the loader on front and use which ever one I need, while locking the other in an "up position", by just flipping the diverter valve.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nathan (SD) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 10:55pm
You need to run the second hose back to the hyd reservoir. I went to the drain plug just because it was the easiest. Some day I was gonna drill a hole in the top and thread it there. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 6:13am
You could do like I did on my old planter. I hooked the "up" hose to the tractor and removed the male coupling from the "down" hose, raised the cylinder up and put the coupling back on. (Then if you ever use that cylinder on a 2 way valve, the air will be purged out so you'll have to drain the down hose again to use it on the WD )
 The air in the "down" hose will go to a slight vacuum when you drop it the first time, and slightly compress when you raise it. As long as the oil can't leak by the piston, it will work just fine.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Gary View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 6:56am

Remove the hydraulic drain plug and install a short nipple pipe fitting.

Install a T fitting to this nipple using one side of the top part of the 'T'.

Install a plug in the other side of the top part.

Connect your return line to the leg of the 'T'.

The plug in the 'T' becomes the new Drain Plug.

G
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 7:20am
Seems like I've seen a Tee like a st-ell.
917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 9:33am
you dont need POWER DOWN on the double acting cylinder when using on the WD, right ?  You just want to VENT OFF the oil or air that is trapped in the cylinder... Just run a hose to the tractor sump as several guys have mentioned... Its single action on the WD, and still double acting on the 175. 
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ANDY T Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 10:25am
thank you everyone for the input.. i dont really think ill be using the hydraulics that often but i want it on there in case the 175 happens to go on strike so i have a backup plan.   it mainly be an old IH 990 haybine.    one day ill fix my 6080 and have a better back up lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 3:45pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

you dont need POWER DOWN on the double acting cylinder when using on the WD, right ?  You just want to VENT OFF the oil or air that is trapped in the cylinder... Just run a hose to the tractor sump as several guys have mentioned... Its single action on the WD, and still double acting on the 175. 

☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️
This. You don't need power down for a combine head,haybine head or a post driver. All you need is return to sump.I've watched the Ontario boys video and I'm not sure you need it for that New Idea round baler.
Learning AC...slowly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 5:52pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 6:31pm
The poster needs to remember that if and when he fully strokes ANY cylinder made for the 175's hydraulic system (2,000 psi) he runs a risk of failing the cylinder. I've done it before and as long as you don't let the implement fully raise and allow the WD's hydraulic pump to hammer away at it, you'll be fine. If you leave the hydraulic lever clear to the top and don't pull it half-way to hold, kiss the cylinder good-bye.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ANDY T Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2022 at 11:14am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

The poster needs to remember that if and when he fully strokes ANY cylinder made for the 175's hydraulic system (2,000 psi) he runs a risk of failing the cylinder. I've done it before and as long as you don't let the implement fully raise and allow the WD's hydraulic pump to hammer away at it, you'll be fine. If you leave the hydraulic lever clear to the top and don't pull it half-way to hold, kiss the cylinder good-bye.



that is very good info i appreciate it because i wouldnt of known that and would of blew it out. thank you!
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ANDY T View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ANDY T Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2022 at 11:17am
Originally posted by exSW exSW wrote:

Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

you dont need POWER DOWN on the double acting cylinder when using on the WD, right ?  You just want to VENT OFF the oil or air that is trapped in the cylinder... Just run a hose to the tractor sump as several guys have mentioned... Its single action on the WD, and still double acting on the 175. 


☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️☝️
This. You don't need power down for a combine head,haybine head or a post driver. All you need is return to sump.I've watched the Ontario boys video and I'm not sure you need it for that New Idea round baler.


i knew i wouldnt get power down which is fine which i just wasnt sure if i could just run a line to drain or not. i did read people were putting it on the fill up which i really didnt want to do either in case i had to add some makes it more difficult.   nothing i use needs power down.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2022 at 12:28pm
We had a batwing with a dual cylinder... All you really need is LIFT on the wings, not power down... One hose failed... I took the RETURN hose off and put a VENT PLUG with a pin hole in it on the port of the cylinder.. That lets the air leak in and out as you operate the OTHER END of the cylinder...  No oil leaks out of the "power down" side of the cylinder, unless the cylinder piston dribbles internal.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2022 at 5:32pm

Steve

How did 'you' come to the conclusion that Andy doesn't need Power Down on his WD.

He specifically stated that he wanted to keep certain equipment that have double acting cylinders in order to use them on his 175.

G
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 8:58am
Read 2 posts up Gary
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