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New to me HD11B |
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farmerdev
Bronze Level Joined: 31 Jul 2022 Location: Utah Points: 9 |
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Posted: 26 Aug 2022 at 10:58am |
Thanks for all the good points I need to get back out there and work on getting into the brake bands area. I will update when I have it loaded on what the issue was.
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Ray54
Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4317 |
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I think Mel and other are pointing you in the right direction. If the brake band rusts to the drum it will never roll.
A old Cat D6 stopped pulling on the one side. Everything going good, started discing a different field pulling up hill, pulled steering clutch for miner correction, IT STOPPED. Let go of the steering clutch and away it goes. Got it home and parked it, I HAVE TO MANY old tractors I used another one. It sat 6 months moved it to clean up weeds. Six months latter wanted to move it again and it would not roll. I got another D6 hooked up, track would drag but no roll. Finally got around to opening it up. Band rusted to drum. Got it free. The 40 HP wheel tractor could roll it around the yard just fine. The original problem was the springs pushing steering clutch plate together to pull where way wore out. Had way less tension than the repair book said. They should of been pitch the last time the clutch was rebuilt. But it worked for the guy that did it, I had only bought it that way.
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AC Mel
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: N.Ca. Points: 1099 |
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Ok...I concur with Rob...Hector ..and Dave...all of those are good possibilities. Since I am a betting man...that would be...money...marbles..or chalk..my first choice is the brake bands stuck to the steering clutch drum. Get under the seat...take the covers off...get out a new dictionary....cause the words you need aren't in the old one...or just make them up as you go. A big hammer and a bar...maybe a cutting torch...will break everything loose. Don't even worry about saving those parts. "Been there done that" on one of our collection tractors the same year model. I'll also bet that Hector will have those parts. The next choice...might be the track links rusted up.,,maybeee.. The clutch could be stuck to the flywheel and the engine could be froze up. But you have 2 choices to put it in neutral...the main transmission and the Hi/Low selector. Dave's wary eye noticed the right brake pedal down...I'd start there...if that's in the locked position....it's not going to come loose very easy.
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29227 |
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In the photo the Right Brake was ALL the way depressed as if the Parking Brake was applied, did you release that? And lock back BOTH Steering clutches???
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 940 |
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You could remove the startor and try to turning the motor by the flywell ring gear with a big screw driver and make sure the transmission and hydrolic lever are in neutral fonction and you could desajusted the brake band these could be freeze on drum,
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1755 |
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are you sure it is the final drives stuck and not either the tracks locked up, or the engine stuck with the transmission in a gear?
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farmerdev
Bronze Level Joined: 31 Jul 2022 Location: Utah Points: 9 |
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Update on this dozer project. I was unable to load it do to the final drives being stuck. Anyone have any ideas on what to do to free them up? If not I will need to get a wrecker out to pick it up. I was able remove the blade and load it on my trailer. Here is a picture of a buddy of mine next to the blade for scale he is 5'10"
And don't worry there are 4 chains attached to the back of that holding it in place.
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3716 |
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take measurements on the yokes. measure bore for joint caps and width across to match it up.
not likely in parts book as a usable number now |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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danny1954
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Aug 2022 Location: texas Points: 32 |
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HELP PLEASE!! i have a allis chalmers hd9b dozer that broke the u joint for the hydraulic pump at the crank shaft pulley. Cant find any information on hd9b with front mounted hydraulic pump. Need help finding manual and parts. Part # on tag HD-9B-3443
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R.KYLE
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jun 2013 Points: 75 |
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YES THE 471 IS BEST CHOICE I ONLY USED THE 671 BECAUSE I HAD IT AND NEW IT WAS A GOOD ENGINE. ALSO MORE WORK GETTING THE 671 IN THERE.
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AC Mel
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: N.Ca. Points: 1099 |
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I concur with Cal....keep in mind the year before this tractor was made it was the model HD9...which had the 471. There are very few changes in the running gear of this HD11 from the HD9. In the early years it was common for the farmers out here in the Sacramento valley to convert back to the 471 when they had engine problems. The 471 would be the easiest swap....if you found one with a turbo..that would make it sweeter. Be careful about trying to turn the engine over. Out of all the things that could be stuck...the PSB fuel pump could be one of the things that's holding it back. You don't want to break that....it is made of unabtainium...yes...been there done that.
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3716 |
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would 11B have the early 1/2 bolts on the intermediate pinion cap? they were a weak point and eventually upgraded to 5/8, so power level considered here. keep in mind the v series will be more expensive than a 4-71 . they only ran about 1700 rpm, and a 4-71 will fit easier and definately be cheaper. I mean you can do whatever you want, i just feel the less complicated the swap is, the more likely it is to be a finished success, and thats what we want is another machine to keep on living.
Edited by CAL(KS) - 08 Aug 2022 at 7:19am |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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R.KYLE
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jun 2013 Points: 75 |
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I PUT A DETROIT 671 IN LINE IN A HD11 LIKE YOURS. IT IS A TIGHT FIT AND REQUIRED SOME MODIFACTIONS. TRACTOR IS OVER POWERED BUT USED WITH CARE WORKS WELL. I USED THE 671 BECAUSE I HAD A HD14 WITH GOOD ENGINE AND POOR UNDERCARRIAGE.
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farmerdev
Bronze Level Joined: 31 Jul 2022 Location: Utah Points: 9 |
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Thanks for all the information. The pictures of the Dozer are at the property I bought it from. I don't have it picked up yet going out in 2 weeks to get it. If I am unable to get parts for the motor I will probably get a 4-71 Detroit though the 6v-71 is tempting.
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Mikez
Orange Level Access Joined: 16 Jan 2013 Location: Usa Points: 8089 |
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Tim welcome to the forum. Is the pictures of the dozer at your property. See other orange in the background
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1755 |
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My 11B tractor was rated at 140hp but according to my buddy at the fuel shop, fuel delivery is increased by 15% over stock settings. Mine is power shift however.
A complete AC 10000 series engine is about 2050 pounds complete. A Detroit Diesel 3-71 is 1521 pounds complete. A Detroit Diesel 4-71 is 1780 pounds complete. Power ratings are easily set where needed with most any of them. A 3-71, or a 4-71 would be a good choice for a repower I'd think. A 3-71 did a fine job in an HD7 tractor so a 4-71 should be a good match for the larger tractor. All would be just a bit more power than the original engine. If me I'd work with the original ascertaining what is wrong with it before going further. As mentioned, u/c and other major mechanicals need evaluated before going far.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1755 |
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here is a blurb on the series;
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Lee Bradley
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Kingston, WA Points: 115 |
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Probably not as much power as AC put through them later with the turbo'd engines.
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Ray54
Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4317 |
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The tractor in the you tube is still running as far as I know, about 50 miles from me. The video has comment 13 year old and he only had 160 acres, so not run everyday. Farming is easier than dozer work because you use more higher gears.
So if you realize what the tractor was made to do and treat it with care, most anything that fits size wise. But remember if you break some parts there are no more at the dealership.
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farmerdev
Bronze Level Joined: 31 Jul 2022 Location: Utah Points: 9 |
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That sounds nice. How much HP can I throw at the transmission and clutches before I break stuff?
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Lee Bradley
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Kingston, WA Points: 115 |
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Or you could go with a v-6
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farmerdev
Bronze Level Joined: 31 Jul 2022 Location: Utah Points: 9 |
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I am up for anything really I do like the idea of a Detroit in there I have a 2-53 I believe in another JD crawler loader and that thing runs great. Just will have to find one I guess I may even just machine my own parts for this motor if I have to.
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R.KYLE
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jun 2013 Points: 75 |
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IF YOUR UP FOR A CHALANGE A 471 DETROIT WILL FIT IN THERE. PARTS STILL AVABLE.
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3716 |
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definitely worth the price but the engine and undercarriage condition will be the determining factors.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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farmerdev
Bronze Level Joined: 31 Jul 2022 Location: Utah Points: 9 |
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3716 |
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Unfortunately no one is making engine parts for these anymore. I bit of know-how and luck will be required to find parts on someone's shelf.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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AC Mel
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: N.Ca. Points: 1099 |
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So...Tim....yes what you have is the early version of the 685. This is the "Lanova" style Buda engine that was first installed in ACs in 1955. The hydraulics also represent the first year. Looks like a pretty clean specimen. Maybe put up some more pictures of the whole machine.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19356 |
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Not a 1980's model 685-T for sure !!!! Non-turbo 1950's engine is what I see.
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farmerdev
Bronze Level Joined: 31 Jul 2022 Location: Utah Points: 9 |
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AC Mel
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: N.Ca. Points: 1099 |
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Tim....So the serial number being 799...should be the first year of production 1955. It would have come with a Lonova style engine at that time...the 685T became the last version made. So ...yes JC and Tracy have good ideas where to look. As I always like to say....post some pictures....engine pictures will help identify exactly what you have....the more pictures the better.
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