This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | ||||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Wd45 distributor |
Post Reply |
Author | |
steve(oh)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ohio Points: 107 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 22 May 2022 at 4:54pm |
Good evening. Messing around with getting a wd45 running. It will tun ok one min then will not run above idle the next. Carb has been cleaned. New points,coil,condenser. Yes the issue was there before the new parts. Coil has been hot wired. I think my issue is the fact I have enough side to side movent in the distributor shaft to change the point gap .10th… am I headed in The right direction? Also will electronic ignition fix this or do I need a new distributor? Thank you for the help
|
|
When your working on something how does it always seem that merphy's law come into affect?
Wide open, Untill you see God. Then Brake |
|
Sponsored Links | |
steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77241 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If the point gap varies, that is the same as changing the timing several degrees.. Lets say you static time at TDC and then advance to 20 degrees... If your point is moving and closing up, its the same as running the motor at TDC and trying to increase RPM... Not saying thats your problem, but YES, that is how it works.
The " electronics" takes the place of the POINT.. You still have to have a good ROTOR with good bearing to make it work... You will need a REBUILT distributor .
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7191 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
x2. An electronic ignition will not help at all until after you address the slop in the distributor shaft,
|
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Your problem sounds more like fuel problem than electrical. Are you sure the venture is in carb,? MACK
|
|
steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77241 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Mack.. the carburetor was my first thought also.. Still not convinced that it is good..... but he also has a sloppy distributor that needs to be addressed..
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11503 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
An easy way to see if the Distributor needs to be rebuilt, is pop the cap off, grab a hold of the rotor and see if you can move the mainshaft side to side. If you have .002-.005" of movement, the mainshaft is in wobble mode and is changing the point dwell. An E.I. is not the answer to a wobbly mainshaft. The Distributor needs to be rebuilt first, then if you want to add an E.I. you can to eliminate the points & condensor. We offer Distributor rebuilding services if interested if that's your problem, along with adding an E.I..... HTH. Steve@B&B bb-customcircuits.com
|
|
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
|
|
DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5620 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You probably have SEVERAL problems, the sloppy distributor upper bushing is ONE... the advance mechanism is probably binding (the pins wear particularly fast if the shaft is wobbling), and you're not getting consistent point closure and dwell. There's also a fair possibility that the 'new condenser' you have, is of such poor quality that they capacitance value is way off, or possibly even nonexistent. Unfortunately, the aftermarket replacements for ignition condensers has basically faded to southeast asia, and they just suck... neither 'quality control', nor 'quality assurance'. I've had days when THREE brand new ignition kits had bad condensers right-out-of-the-box. Have Steve give yours a rebuild WITH electronic ignition, and a new coil, and you'll never worry about that again. While he's doing that, pop the intake/exhaust manifold off, lift the head off, clean out the chambers and ports, unload all the springs, check the heights for any sacked-out coils, then take a wire brush to clean, and a lapstick to re-bed in each valve, flatten out the manifold area, skim the manifold flat, too, put it all back together with new manifold studs, new gaskets, a carb kit, scrub out the fuel tank, new petcock assembly, and clean that fuel line good, new plugs and wires, Weld up and smooth any worn pivots in the governor linkage, you should be good for another 50 years.
Edited by DaveKamp - 22 May 2022 at 10:48pm |
|
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
|
|
B26240
Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
A while back I had a tractor start and run great for a couple min. then stumble, would improve with chock. What I found was the intake to the fuel shut off/sediment bowl was plugged with rust chunks. Just saying there could be several problems.
|
|
DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5620 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
+1 on this... they're seemingly ALWAYS... if not rust, it's a leaf, piece of a twig used to dip-check the fuel level, an acorn or beechnut, a dead junebug... Or (for situations where someone has installed a rubber fuel line), the inside of the line has been attacked by non-gasoline (ethanol, methanol, etc) based additives, and the inner lining is swelled-shut under circumstances, effectively choking off the fuel flow... But a sloppy distributor shaft is commonplace on these, and it causes problems which are inconsistent, aggrivating, and totally impossible to resolve through fuel-system repairs. Until it has dead-solid-stable spark, all the other actions are tail-chasers. When he's got that snappy-hot spark, he should darned-near be able to disconnect the fuel line from the carb, park it downwind from the hog confinement, and run it on stink.
Edited by DaveKamp - 23 May 2022 at 4:46pm |
|
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
|
|
dr p
Orange Level Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Location: new york Points: 998 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Dave is right. The wd 45 on my manure spreader had me chasing my tail. Seems like I was constantly changing points. But when I had the distributor rebuild, all of a sudden points seem to last. Steve did a great job for me
|
|
Dennis(IA)
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: IOWA Points: 356 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Get the distributor rebuilt, that will be a good starting point.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |