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LED lights 190XT

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AC720Man View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 8:11pm
Forgive me I am sure this question has been on here before. I tried doing a search on the forum but quickly became frustrated. So, I would like to upgrade my 4 sealed beam lights on my XT. I am looking for lights that look factory, not ones that have 4-5 round LED lights in them. Any help would be appreciated.
Robbie
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2020 at 8:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 5:25am
That sight doesn’t have what I’ve seen before. The LED light I saw before looked just like the sealed beam light.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 6:49am
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

That sight doesn’t have what I’ve seen before. The LED light I saw before looked just like the sealed beam light.
Is this what you are looking for. https://www.larsenlights.com/par-36-fluted-lens-45-led-18-watt-flood-light
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 7:25pm
Thanks Lonn, those are the ones that I was looking for. My brother Charlie saw those as well. I think I am going to order 2 to see how I like them first.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 7:33pm
Will these lights have the "2 tier" brightness that the originals have ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie175 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 7:41pm
Looks like you need the bolt on back housing to go with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 7:54pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Will these lights have the "2 tier" brightness that the originals have ?
The ones I posted are flood lights. I couldn't find the ho/lo beam ones. If it were me I'd just call the company.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 7:55pm
Originally posted by Charlie175 Charlie175 wrote:

Looks like you need the bolt on back housing to go with it.
They fit in the old housing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2020 at 8:08pm
I haven’t paid attention the lights having 2 tier brightness? Just the inside ones also coming on the second click of the switch. Guess I need to check that out.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

I haven’t paid attention the lights having 2 tier brightness? Just the inside ones also coming on the second click of the switch. Guess I need to check that out.
Yes, there a 2 bulbs/side that come on in the first position of the rotary switch, but the second position lights up another filament in the "outer bulbs" ?? Pretty sure someone will "confirm or chastise " me on my memory LOLLOL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WD in Australia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 11:28pm
Another option I have found but not tried as yet. LED bulb.
Depending on the light means you can keep original light but get LED benefit.
WD(NF), WD45(WF), WD45D(WF), XT190D(WF), Model U, Gleaner C, All Crop 60, Rotobaler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie175 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 6:18am
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

I haven’t paid attention the lights having 2 tier brightness? Just the inside ones also coming on the second click of the switch. Guess I need to check that out.
Yes, there a 2 bulbs/side that come on in the first position of the rotary switch, but the second position lights up another filament in the "outer bulbs" ?? Pretty sure someone will "confirm or chastise " me on my memory LOLLOL.

On mine, the 2 inboard lights come on first, second click the outboard lights come on also.

I could see the above option with the first series that only had 1 light?
Charlie

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 6:56am
Originally posted by WD in Australia WD in Australia wrote:

Another option I have found but not tried as yet. LED bulb.
Depending on the light means you can keep original light but get LED benefit.
<div id="UMS_TOOLTIP" style=": ; cursor: pointer; : 2147483647; : transparent; top: -100000px; left: -100000px;">

I have them in one of my cubs. It is still 6volt so not real bright, but much brighter than the filament lamps. Now that I think about it, should try it in one of the 7XXXXs 12v hi lo lamps and see what that looks like.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 7:29am
Originally posted by Charlie175 Charlie175 wrote:

Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

I haven’t paid attention the lights having 2 tier brightness? Just the inside ones also coming on the second click of the switch. Guess I need to check that out.
Yes, there a 2 bulbs/side that come on in the first position of the rotary switch, but the second position lights up another filament in the "outer bulbs" ?? Pretty sure someone will "confirm or chastise " me on my memory LOLLOL.

On mine, the 2 inboard lights come on first, second click the outboard lights come on also.

I could see the above option with the first series that only had 1 light?
My brother's 1970 190XT, the first click the inboard front lights come on dim and the flashers flash. The second click the inboard lights go to bright and the flashers still flash. The third click the inboard lights stay on bright, the outboard lights, which are flood lights, turn on, the rear lights turn on and the flashers turn off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 9:47am
The factory used 2 different bulbs. Inners were trapezoid (4411) and the outer were flood (4406) I think.
1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 3:13pm
I got those style LED's like LONN showed on my 3020.  They work great.  Much better than the original bulbs.  There is no high/low beam to this light.  It is either on or off from what I've seen and guessing the same for those.  I like the ones with the panels on the light housing as showed by Lonn.  Really can't tell their LED's until you turn them on.  It keeps the original look. I'd recommend.  I also put them on my White 105 and got a few on my R50 combine. Those I have the regular LED's without the panels on the light housing.  Really have not noticed any difference in light output between the two.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 4:33pm
I'm not sure they are all like this but I suspect most are.  If you look on the back of the light switch there will be a coil between two of the terminal points.  The lights are dim because the voltage to them is routed through that coil on the first setting.  The next setting bypasses the coil so the lights see full voltage.  The third setting turns on the flood lights.

Having said all that, the current draw for the LEDs is much less which makes the voltage drop across the coil much less for "dim" operation so you wind up with essentially full brightness in both switch positions.  If you want to fix that, you'll need to replace the resistor on the back of the light switch with something larger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 5:08pm
The 190XT with dual lights did not use 3 terminal lights with high and low beam. 
1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 6:22pm
Originally posted by Flyer Flyer wrote:

I'm not sure they are all like this but I suspect most are.  If you look on the back of the light switch there will be a coil between two of the terminal points.  The lights are dim because the voltage to them is routed through that coil on the first setting.  The next setting bypasses the coil so the lights see full voltage.  The third setting turns on the flood lights.

Having said all that, the current draw for the LEDs is much less which makes the voltage drop across the coil much less for "dim" operation so you wind up with essentially full brightness in both switch positions.  If you want to fix that, you'll need to replace the resistor on the back of the light switch with something larger.
YES !!!! That's EXACTLY what's on the back of a 100 series light switch WinkWink ! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2020 at 7:24pm
Interesting, always wondered what that thing did. Thanks Flyer. Not only do I want to get brighter lighting, I use the rear plug on the fender to power 2 magnetic warning lights that I place on equipment behind me. When I do that now, if my ride is over 20 minutes it has melted the fuse holder and burn up 1 light switch. With the LED’s drawing less amperage, I am hoping to resolve this issue also.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 7:18am
Originally posted by Flyer Flyer wrote:

I'm not sure they are all like this but I suspect most are.  If you look on the back of the light switch there will be a coil between two of the terminal points.  The lights are dim because the voltage to them is routed through that coil on the first setting.  The next setting bypasses the coil so the lights see full voltage.  The third setting turns on the flood lights.

Having said all that, the current draw for the LEDs is much less which makes the voltage drop across the coil much less for "dim" operation so you wind up with essentially full brightness in both switch positions.  If you want to fix that, you'll need to replace the resistor on the back of the light switch with something larger.
I put the high/low led lights on my 200. There are 6 led light bulbs in the high/low lights I bought. With the switch on dim only 3 bulbs turn on, then in high beam all 6 bulbs come on. They do not have the original look though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 7:34am
Originally posted by Joe(TX) Joe(TX) wrote:

The 190XT with dual lights did not use 3 terminal lights with high and low beam. 
I think my brother's XT does, I don't remember for sure. I did replace the switch on it once but never use the lights much on that tractor. I'd rather have 3 terminal bulbs than that coil resistor.

I don't like the light switch with the resistor coil as I've found the new switches don't last like the old ones because, I feel, they over heat...... Maybe because they weren't made for halogen lights. My 200 burned through two switches until I replaced the high/low bulbs with LED.

Also, for those who may wonder, the little doohicky showing the positions of the switch says: OFF, H.L. DIM, H.L. BR., and F.L. That's four positions. I assume H.L. means head light, B.R. means bright and F.L. means flood lights.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2020 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by Lonn Lonn wrote:


I don't like the light switch with the resistor coil as I've found the new switches don't last like the old ones because, I feel, they over heat...... Maybe because they weren't made for halogen lights. My 200 burned through two switches until I replaced the high/low bulbs with LED.


I would agree.  The reason the switches didn't like the halogen lights is that they were likely a higher current draw (lower resistance) than the standard filament bulbs.  The heat dissipated by the resistor coil increases by the square of the current (I2R).  So a 10% increase in current would result in a roughly 21% increase in heat from the dropping resistor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 5:45pm
Am I wrong that the original filament bulbs did not have a 2 filament bulb for the "bright" setting like an old school auto/truck headlight ? I just assumed that the "brights" were a different filament in the same bulb getting kicked on Smile Never gave a thought about the "spring" on the back of the switch changing the output of the "same" filament LOL !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2020 at 7:04pm
Spoke with Kenny Larson this afternoon about the par-36 lights and said they should be a direct replacement. I think I’m going to pull the tricker and get 4. I was going to replace the flood in the rear but it has the red stop bulb in it and I want to leave it factory.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

Spoke with Kenny Larson this afternoon about the par-36 lights and said they should be a direct replacement. I think I’m going to pull the tricker and get 4. I was going to replace the flood in the rear but it has the red stop bulb in it and I want to leave it factory.


I replaced the rear flood on mine with a 2-color LED.  I have it wired for red for the first two light settings.  In the flood position it switches to white. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 8:16pm
What year did the red bulb go away on the rear fender light ? Our '68  XT has no red bulb, now that I think about it, neither does the '69 180 Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 9:06pm
Mine is a 1968 and it has it. Yours may have got changed out.
Let me correct myself. Larson par36 fluted lights are flood lights not projected lights. Kenny feels I should get up to 30 feet of light. I rarely do any night time work, I use the lights and flashers driving to fields. My main reason to upgrade to LED is to take the stress off of the wiring and electrical system since I use the rear plug to power 2 magnetic flashing lights I mount on equipment behind me while traveling on local roads. These LED’s are fluted resembling the factory lights which is important to me to keep the factory look.
Interesting to know a red/white light is available for the rear.

Edited by AC720Man - 26 Sep 2020 at 9:07pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2020 at 9:11pm
Our XT has amber top fender mounted flasher ??
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