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Ted J 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18699
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 Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 2:26pm |
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About the only way to keep stuff from rusting in the salt belt is to either leave it outside, or rinse/wash them really well before coming inside. We made a 'rinser' for the fire trucks here. It was a piece of copper pipe with holes in it facing up. Ran a little more than half way past the middle of the truck. A cap on one end and a 60 degree elbow on the other. Add another piece of pipe to the 60 and long enough so that it is comfortable for you to handle. Put a ball valve on that and then a hose connection. Just put the hose on it and spray underneath the rig and get all the salt off. Worked really well.
Yep, 2 pieces going up and then add some extra 2" PVC for running anything else you might like later on, e.g. speaker wire. At least 1 in every corner.
What about pipe for running air around? With drops at every door? Hope this helps and makes you think a little Chris.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
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Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 8:15pm |
Russ, Thanks for the kind words. Ted, Yes a air line system would be nice too. Wonder if I could use that left over PEX for air line? Folks, I will be watching this rust issue if I ever get heat in here. Grandson Mike dropped off his transmission for storage today as his garage is not completed at this time. His old Dodge looks good in the shop too!
I modified the area around the electrical box to allow for more connections out the top.
Here is the pine tounge and groove paneling my friend Andy put in his building.
Today we dug more trenches installed drains and filled them back in: Some connect to the downspouts some areas are perforated and filled completely with 2B stone as a French drain. 6 Inch and 4 inch schedule 35 and gasketed fittings. As we started on the East side:
Should finish this infrastructure portion of the project tomorrow. After I go get a few more pieces of pipe and fittings of course! We have moved a lot of the dirt several times. Almost know some of the dirt clods by name! 
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Oct 2020 at 5:56am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5637
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Posted: 27 Oct 2020 at 11:25pm |
Looking good, Chris!
okay, for running compressed air through PEX... Pex has a pressure and temperature rating on the exterior, but it says that it is not RATED for compressed gasses. Why that is... is because it can embrittle and fracture, resulting in a catestrophic ventilation. With hydrostatic pressure, the tube would still fracture, but since liquids aren't compressible, they won't expand once the pipe opens- they'll just leak.
So formally, no.
That doesn't mean someone (ahem.. ) hasn't done it...
Now, there's a special type of line that is a combination of aluminum with a PEX-like skin, and special fittings, that are INTENDED for compressed air. It's a whole lot more expensive, especially for the fittings.
What you COULD do, if you had safety concerns, is cover the tubing (like, thread it through a piece of 1" PVC conduit) so that 1) it wouldn't get 'dinged' by anything whilst under pressure and 2) if it DID burst, the result would be somewhat contained...
And if you happened to leave a spare in a trench to the house... or to the sugar house... or mebbie a post over along the driveway, it's darned handy to have a compressed air fitting in all those places, being fed by the main compressor/tank in the shop, as you always run into a case where 'ya need to bring up a tire, or inflate the rails of the slip-n-slide, or zap some lug nuts on a combine, or replace some shingles on the house roof... or in my case, cut the whole darned roof off with a chainsaw and crane, and set a brand new roof on the house in one day... so you had an air connection for the carpenters installed in the attic beforehand!
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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shameless dude
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Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13611
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 3:43am |
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on the serious side Chris...usually when heated floors cause rust on things, it's because who ever mixed the concrete used crushed limestone rock in the mix. the limestone rock will cause rusting even if just placed inside a building. chemical reaction or something. i tried it in one of my buildings and yep...it did. the other building had gravel and nothing rusted in it.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 21460
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 5:25am |
gee it keeps gettin prettier ever day !!! hmm, do you have 'cleanouts' where the downspouts join then green drain pipes ? did you consider storing all that nice soft,warm rain water to water a veggie garden ? having a BIG, EASY access to pull wires to/from the panel is a MUST. I used a slab of plywood and 6 screws( 3 in there now....),removable Roxul insulation. I've seen what SD says..kinda pretty 'artsy'..... You can run copper 'water pipe' for airlines.. 1/2" is good for 800#.soldered joints 200#. Whatever you use, be SURE that every 'drop' has a water trap below it ! A 6" stub and removable cap.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 6:31am |
Dave,SD,Jay,Folks, Thanks for the info, air, water, electric. Sometimes I would like to have the forsight to have all the things in place. But I am a human and I dont!:) Like my old Allis projects I think my skills and ideas would improve if I was able to do multiple builds. Well thats not going to happen. So we do our best as we plod along through this shop project. I love all the ideas and suggestions. Usually I go; Dang too late to do that!
But as a example of the clean outs. What I am doing there, is to put leaf guard on all the buildings to prevent debris from entering the downspout drain systems. That should stop a lot of the potential issues at the source.
I had never heard of the limestone vs gravel issue. may have learned something? I have no clue whats in my concrete other than many many dollar bills! Sure is nice to have a nice floor.
The idea of the air line in each building is really a awesome idea. And I did not take advantage of that and I should have! Dang! The compressor is in the current garage. It could have stayed there. less noise in the shop! Also I could use a air line in the sugarhouse to someday run a air diaphragm pump for my filter press with no compressor noise in the building! Dang, that there is a real good idea that I may have missed out on. We have dug between all the buildings and a line could have easily gone into the trench! I will think about that one for a long time, Dave!
Not sure how much it would cost or available but the PEX that they used for the Propane for pressure. Just not sure how much pressure?
I have one last chance to get a air line from the shop to the sugarhouse. I may consider that.
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Oct 2020 at 6:33am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 7:32am |
At the very least, run an 1.25 or 1.5" 'conduit' ( black polypipe for water) NOW. That way 3 dayze or 3 years from now you can EASILY run airline to the sugarshack... If made a tad bigger, you could run 2 pex lines for water between the two building, though I suspect you have water already in the 'shack'??
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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hd1937
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Joined: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Linesville, PA
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 9:37am |
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Air in the sugarhouse, let’s see-
1) Cost for opening another trench, conduit, air line, fittings.
2) Temporary airline from shop to sugarhouse, only needs to in place for six weeks. Don’t know about freezing issues.
3) Harbor Freight pancake air compressor.
2 or 3 could be done very inexpensively.
Many, many options, and with all the blower noise your rig already makes you would never hear a small compressor running.
Jim
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 6:43pm |
Folks, Jim, Thanks for stopping by today! You have it pretty well nailed. For what I need it for the small compressor set outside, or a temp line would be just fine. We will see I have the PEX. The trench would need to be about 12 feet longer to get up near the shop. Weather was drizzle most of the morning, so the drain digging was on hold. I spent the day filling in the void above the upper areas of the end of the sissiors truss south wall and all along the double headers. This will be a stop for insulation be it foam or fiberglass. Called the door guys and ask to see if they can move the door hardware down at least a inch to allow room for the ceiling liner panels. I talked to the Frank the foam guy and he is booked for at least 2 months. He will get me a quote based on dimensions for walls and ceiling. I also have a quote coming for installing fiberglass insulation in walls and ceiling too. With that I should be able to make a decision on the, type and installation options. I can install insulation myself if I need to!
Had a meeting with my electrician and we discussed basic layout of lights, outlets and rough wiring. Maybe able to start on this phase in a couple weeks.
Got the rest of the 4 inch Schedule 35 drain pipe and fittings for the fourth drain on the shop downspout. Dang I hope that is the end of the digging. Just need to find the funds to pay for the machines and labor too!  Regard, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Oct 2020 at 6:45pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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JohnColo
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Joined: 03 Apr 2020
Location: Niwot, CO
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 8:29pm |
Chris and all. I'm curious about the spray foam. Is it fire resistant? Comparing R value, which is cheaper, foam or fiberglass? BTW that is going to be a great shop in a very short time!
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shameless dude
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Location: east NE
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Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 10:14pm |
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yeah...hurry up, alot of us can't hardly wait to use it!
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 29 Oct 2020 at 6:36am |
John, SD, and Folks, Well I dont have all the numbers in place for insulation materials and the labor cost yet. But when I called Frank the spray foam guy his first words were " Spray foam is 3 to 4 times more expensive than fiberglass insulation" ! That was comforting! I dont know about the fire resistance part? Today I am leaning towards the fiberglass bats, and maybe installing some of it where it makes sense. I mean its only a shop, lets not go crazy here!
Drizzle hear again today. Back in the shop to work on transition wall from scissors trusses to the flat bottom trusses. I would like to put some type of access door in there too. Would be some custom unit as the space is a odd shape.
Just realized I really need to get the interior walls (smaller room area) in place to complete the rough wiring to then complete the insulation someday. Dang there isalways something else that needs done first! With all that said, it may be a while before Shameless or even I can use this shop.
Ok stop breath, little bites! Just need to get out there and off the couch more!
Hope things are good in Orange land! Thanks for checking on me too!
Forgot to mention. I did talk to the door guy and he is going to look at the option of lowering the door and or spring assemblies at least 1 inch to allow clearance to get ceiling panels in place. (He was not very please with my request) I have looked at it more and have a plan too. We will see how that all plays out. I would like to not have to notch out around all of these door brackets, at the wall to ceiling transition area someday. It would look like poopy doopy!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 29 Oct 2020 at 6:40am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
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Posted: 29 Oct 2020 at 11:04am |
Chris, I put ball valves on each drop also. I have a ball valve below where the main drop line is going into the main line. That way you can shut of that drop and still have air everywhere else. I like them on the drop lines because you don't have to worry about losing air from connections. With a ball valve on the bottom, you don't have to be continually unscrewing a cap. SO,,,,,you have the main line horizontal and then the (lots of them in strategic places) drop lines. Down 3" a ball valve, then continue down to where you want the quick connector for an air hose using a Tee also horizontal. Then continue past that with another piece of pipe, about 4", to another ball valve (for bleeding water/condensation out). Clear as mud? Cut main line an add a Tee, a short piece of stub, the ball valve, pipe continuing down (for me it was 4'), another Tee with the air hose quick connection coming out horizontal and then adding another stub going down and then another ball valve. Works like a charm and I love it! I've got em by all the doors, various spots where I don't have enough hose to reach, and over the work bench. You GOTTA have one over the work bench! 
Edited by Ted J - 29 Oct 2020 at 11:06am
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 29 Oct 2020 at 11:35am |
Ted, Great suggestions on the air line drops. We do need some pictures too!
Worked in the loft this morning, framing in the wall between the different truss styles. This wall will have two doors also. One just a tad over 4 foot that would allow sheet of plywood or sheeting to be handed up into the loft near the east side of the jib tower. Second door is for access into the scissors truss area. I need to go get some SPF 2x4 x 10 footers for the rest of the interior wall framing. got a price of $8.29 each, another yard they were $9.95. Humm? I think they went up a little? One place was going to have to cut them out of 20 footers.
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 29 Oct 2020 at 6:29pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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tadams(OH)
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Posted: 29 Oct 2020 at 12:02pm |
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I have a couple Harbor Freight hose reels so I don't need as many drops.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 29 Oct 2020 at 6:50pm |
tadams, I would like to have one of those hose reels May have to splurge and get one of those. Have you had good luck with the Harbor Freight unit? Folks, Wall layout for the shop inside a shop area. Several good ideas from friends and neighbors too. And as usual I am easily distracted by things like buying more lumber or doing layouts on the floor, or talking about boiler systems for heat. I bought a sink and now realize I dont need two sinks in the bathroom so that gives me some more room for a potential boiler.
I have some sticks and tape on the floor for the proposed bathroom layout. I have expanded the size by 2 feet to make it a little less cramped.
You have to look close for the tape representing the proposed door to the bath room.
Loft framing: not a good picture of my crude framing work! Glad I don't get paid to do this stuff! Only about 30% complete with this but consisted of a end nailers for the ceiling and the proposed wall coverings. Will Have a small access door into the sissiors truss are from the loft too.
I did get the quote for sealing/ caulking and insulating with fiberglass, the entire building except for the loft. Just north of $4K installed. R19 in the walls and R39 in the ceiling. The costs of covering with final wall and ceiling material of my choice, are not included in that cost. I think that sounds pretty reasonable, and that may be the route I follow. Spray foam might be that much for just the walls?
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 29 Oct 2020 at 6:57pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 29 Oct 2020 at 7:24pm |
re: bathroom. It's a wee bit small... any chance you thought about putting in a shower ???
I know, just what you needed MORE suggestions... but it would be nice, getting up in the morning ,coming down from MY loft, having a nice hot shower....... 
Ok, spray foam, up here a deal was 3$ a sqft...might give you a 'ballpark' number. BTW mice(vermin) LOVE pink, HATE Roxul.....
Jealous Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 8:09am |
Jay, Folks, Your not the only one suggesting a shower. Humm Might be room? Will have to think about that one a little more too. I would need at least 40 inches sq. Not sure I have that area in the current plan yet! But by eliminating that one sink I may have another drain available.
Jay, Thanks for the dollar amount on the spray foam. Will have to work the numbers on that. Any idea what R value would you get at the $3 per sq ft? Thickness? I think I heard its about R7 per inch??
Off to try to put up interior room, inside a shop, walls! That should be fun, as I am not much of a carpenter! Will see how that goes and will try to bring you folks up to date on that too. My idea all along has been for a large door in the zone 1 (small area of the shop) to allow large projects to be brought in to the room. I had considered a slider door but as several mentioned that is hard to seal for any type of heat retention. So when my OH door guys were here I mentioned it and got a price on a mid range R value door (maybe R9) for the opening into the zone 1. The right size door dimensions would be 9 foot wide x 8 foot high. (Humm yes I could pull a WD or D17 right in there! ) I adjusted my floor plan to have that small OH door on the south end Z1 going out into the high bay area. (original plan was to go towards the east) There would be more room to maneuver a project into the Z1 area from that direction since it is two bays wide (36 ft). I am also leaning towards a walk door going out the east wall of Z1 somewhat near the bathroom area. It would make the travel distance a little longer if the small OH door was closed to get to a LARGE project in the south end of Z2.
Ok less talk more action! Lets try to build some walls!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 30 Oct 2020 at 8:14am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 12:27pm |
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Okay, I gotta throw this in there. There should be a minimum 30” wide space for your toilet with 24” clear space in front of it. If you do a shower keep in mind a 30” diameter circle should fit in the floor space for the user.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 4:05pm |
Plummerscarin, Thanks for checking in with us. Always good to have a expert in the plumbing area of things too. I think I have the 30 inch wide area (Ok it may be a little tight near the wall where the manifolds are, My fault) and the 24 inch dimension, in front of the toilet too. I dont think I am going to go with a shower. My logic is that this is not a camp away from other dwellings. I am about 20 steps from my house. But I do think I will use the large fiberglass wash sink as the primary and only sink in the bathroom.
Back on insulation: I received the cost estimate from Frank the foam guy. Walls $3200 2 inch thick. Ceiling $6800 3 inch thick for a total of $10 k. Not totally unexpected. But we need to draw the line here somewhere! Unless you guys want to chip in?
The installed fiberglass insulation for about half that estimate, looks pretty interesting at this point.
Still working on floor plan layout today for Z1. Which really means I goofed off and did almost nothing today! You will have that sometimes!
Friend Brent stopped in and helped me hook up a small propane wall heater in the sugarhouse. Was good to have a helper and to see that the propane system and heater were going to work. As the weather is getting cold for the next few days it felt good to warm my hands!
Brent also has a used trolley that he will donate for the jib crane. Did I mention I am taking donations?
Another visitor today too. Grandson Nic, Master Eectrician , And deer killer! Drizzly cold damp wet morning kept most folks inside. He went out and put the 47 yard shot through this buck. Tracked it 300 yards after a 2 hour wait and found it piled up! He said they see one like this every year in the same area. Must be unusual horns in the gene pool. He may get it mounted just as a reminder you can't eat those horns!
This 150 ish lb. PA buck will help fill his freezer and feed his family till next season. This is the first buck this season between him and his wife. They each took a nice doe too. Great to see the young folks with the ability to survive if it came down to that.
No we did not get any blood on the new concrete!
Maybe if my toes get warm, I may get out and do something constructive!
Thanks for checking on me!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 30 Oct 2020 at 4:35pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dave in PA
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 4:22pm |
Yes it is good to see a nice rack! LOL OK get you minds out of the gutter! But, as my late FIL once said, "no matter how f^#@*%g you boil them antlers, they will never soften up enough to eat" And I still think he was correct! But, I think a, " a nice rack " , is GOOD to see!
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 4:22pm |
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Always a good feeling to bring home meat for the freezer. Congratulations. Crazy looking antler on the left side or is it the angle of the photo?
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john(MI)
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 5:42pm |
I don't know what the cost would be but have you thought about regular rubber airline for the air? Just a thought.
I can't tell for sure from the pic, but it looks like the bathroom door goes back into the corner. If that is how it is in your plan, you'll need to move it out from corner wall a couple inches for it to open! Just an observation.
You'll need a cabinet in the bathroom or a couple shelves. Someplace to store TP, soap, hand cleaner, first aid kit, etc. Oh, and a space somewhere for the mop and bucket.
Don't forget to put some money aside for the new computer for the desk. You gotta communicate with us somehow when you are out there and have a question.
Don't forget windows between the office and the other parts of the building, so you can sit and have a cup of coffee and admire all that nice equipment in the other room.
If I think of any other minor details, I keep you informed!
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 6:22pm |
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Lots of great progress and suggestions.
On the bathroom. I haven't built mine yet, but stubbed it in and designed it to be like an RV bathroom. The sink will be outside of the enclosed room. It will be completely tiled, with the drain in the middle of the floor. As the sink (washtub) will be on the outside wall, so will be the cupboard for extra supplies.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 30 Oct 2020 at 8:26pm |
Folks, Yes the rack is not normal on the left or at least not similar. a spike and a hat hook on the bottom.
John, Yes I may have to move the door out from the wall several inches to get it to function. I had not thought about more windows inside the building. That might be interesting too.
Strokendiesel002, We need to see some pictures also! And No I am not doing tile! That's final!
Just more layout work with 2 x 4's string and tape measure tonight. A plan is forming, slowly but it is forming. Bath room layout and size is firmed up. Dimensions check out OK. Have been working on the wall layout around 4 doors on the proposed wall between the high bay area and the low bay area. Yikes! A existing walk door in the west wall, a potenial 9x8 overhead door, a proposed walk door into the Z1, and a possible 12 wide x 10 high double slider. Oh yea, I have a door problem! Regards, Chris
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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JohnColo
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Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 1:10am |
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What about a sliding door for the bathroom? Can you buy big cans of foam and do the insulation yourself? Like 5 gallons with a hose. Seems like I read somewhere about a guy doing that several years ago. That big sink will be good for washing parts too!
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farmboy520
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Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 6:55am |
You could always use a separate sink in the shop area so you don't always have to go into the bathroom.
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On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R66, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's)
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 21460
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Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 7:14am |
re: insulation
OK, nuther idea...like you need MORE choices.....
spray foam the walls( $3200), blown in for the ceiling( $???? ).
foam SEALS in all the cracks,so air can't get in and vermin don't either. blown in for the ceiling insulation (over white tin) makes it easy to get R50. BTW 2 kinds of foam...closed cell and open cell, think closed is also a vapour barrier ? if you foam 2" ,then you have LOTS of space to run wires 'afterwards', with batts NOT so easy and moves them creating gaps....
might be an option ??
re: bathroom maybe a smallish SS 'wet bar' sink and not the laundry tub..... having a laundry tub 'in the shop' makes it easy to clean 'big, yucky' things..
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
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Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 8:16am |
Jay, Folks, Am I going to have to pay Jay a consulting fee after this project? He is losing sleep and getting up in the middle of the night working on this project! I do like the foam on the walls idea. because I have lots of potential leak zones. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 8:35am |
One condition of Foam in the Walls is the House Wrap needs to be placed for the Foam to adhere to it. If spray directly to structural wood as framing it will stick same for external panels where if have to replace any damaged materials in the future will be glued in place.
The house we are in was House Wrapped before any sheeting was placed so as to give a anchor sheet for the Spray On Foam and Not the external sheeting.
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