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Ted J 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
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 Topic: Ca hydraulic pump
Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 11:50pm |
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You're doing just great Matt. I can't help you with the loader on one of these, as we never had a loader on one of em. We always had em on the WD or the WD45. Only had the cultivators on the CA.
Nice set up of the 3-point also. This is one of the handiest little tractors and it has a lot of guts and power and doesn't hardly use any gas...
Oh yeah,,,,,,I have used it on occasion to pull my WD45 out of the swamp when I get kind of stupid....
Edited by Ted J - 05 Apr 2020 at 11:51pm
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Hunt4Allis
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Location: Ohio
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Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 10:00am |
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Ok, good info keep em coming
The suggestion box is open for anything helpful.even stories that are associated with using these old tractors with a trip loader bucket( maybe I should start a new thread)
Thanks Matt
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 9:54am |
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You want a diverter valve not proportioning valve, they are different. A diverter valve shifts all the flow to one circuit or the other. A proportioning valve splits the flow between two circuits, allowing some flow to both at the same time. Don't want to see you end up getting the wrong one.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 9:39am |
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Yup thanks
I was hoping I had everything reinstalled correct and it would work again.
Now to swap out NF end for the WF end and add the trip loader, install new portioning valve (to select rear cylinders from front cylinders), flush and remove radiator in the process ( b/c I have to remove radiator to swap nf to wf,and figure out where my engine oil leak is coming from at front of tractor😜
Sounds like a simple thing( but with 2 young ones will probably take me a while...)
Any information on any of these I'll absorb and be appreciative, thanks Matt 👍
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MACK
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:54pm |
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Congratulations on a good job. MACK
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:37pm |
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Right, I'm thinking I'll need to reset it too
I've done it 2 times before so you'd think I'd have it memorized by now
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:10pm |
pretty sure you measure with it in the up position. That's how the D14 is done. Similar pump/cylinder system. It should be in the manual..somewhere..... I recall having to go up/down a few times to 'burb' the trapped air out, after that it was fine.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:05pm |
Matt, I will need to reset the controls to (I think) "drawbar" to invoke the traction boast system as I'm sure that I have disturbed how they were set before I started working on the pump. Time to read the manual!
I haven't reinstalled the pump yet - waiting on one more part and also want to flush the cylinders. Once that's all done, I'm hoping to report good results!
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 05 Apr 2020 at 6:30am
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 7:35pm |
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Ok,I'll top off fluid with cylinders extended and tractor not running now that I'm confident in when the measurement should be done...
Dave, did you feel the need to completely reset all the settings on your hydraulics after your install?( I need to look back in my manual to see what the knobs are for and see if varying them actually does what there supposed to do now that pump is rebuilt and system is clean)
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 6:37pm |
Excellent news, Matt! Glad to hear that everything works as it should. 
When I was topping off the oil level in my CA I saw that there was a measurable difference in the dipstick reading between lift arms down vs up (ie, cylinders extended). Maybe 3/16" or so on the dipstick. |
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 2:58pm |
I have a snap coupler drawbar/ 3 point combo unit 
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 2:47pm |
 I don't check mine with the rams extended, because I have a pin hitch CA and they don''t extend when the drawbar is on. If SC, I would check them with rams extended and the pump off.I doubt it matters much.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 1:16pm |
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Well just got pump reinstalled and all filled with clean oil and I hit a homerun everything works! Now I just need to know when 2 take the dipstick reading for the full line with Rams extended?
Another words is the full line with Rams extended with the PTO engaged and everything running or is it after it rest for a bit with Rams extended and not running or engaged?
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 02 Apr 2020 at 6:25pm |
If it takes you less than 3 tries to get her 'up and running', then 'you're a better man than me, Gunga Din'.  With hydraulics, cleanliness is CRITCAL, so clean, clean and clean some more.....I was in too much of a hurry the 1st time, even more of a hurry the 2nd time, 3rd time I took a whole day.....THEN it was 'happy'.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 02 Apr 2020 at 4:33pm |
Well that was fun. It's all cleaned with new o-rings and a couple other worn parts replaced (including the two cotter pins that had fallen out inside the drawbar control linkage) Now just two get it put back on tractor tomorrow with new hydraulic trans fluid and hopefully everything works as it should. I was a little apprehensive to do this but I think I did okay because at the end I didn't have any spare parts on the bench 😉 Here's a couple of pictures of it all back together although it doesn't look like very much from the outside there's a ton of parts inside of one of these that I hopefully will never need to mess with in my lifetime again.    Thanks for everyone chipping in information in the process, Matt 👍
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 8:04pm |
 MACK wrote:
It shouldn't matter where the slot is turned, I've always turned them to top from habit. MACK |
Yep. That doesn't matter
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 7:36pm |
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Yup, and after all back together I then need to swap my NF to a WF end then install the trip loader to help clean up the pasture...
( Just a constantly evolving project it seams, but fun) I wouldn't do any of this if I didn't enjoy making old things work again 😉
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cdsloop
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Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 7:21pm |
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I thought that oil was terribly dirty to have just been changed. Glad to help! Sounds like you are making some progress now.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 4:47pm |
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I made some progress today getting my pump back together and may be able to bolt everything back up to the tractor and see how it works over the next couple days.
Thanks for everyone's help and information!
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 01 Apr 2020 at 4:48pm
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 9:23pm |
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Ok, it just seamed like these slots lined up with holes drilled through pump housing that connected other portions of the pump.
Thanks Matt
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MACK
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 9:14pm |
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It shouldn't matter where the slot is turned, I've always turned them to top from habit. MACK
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 6:37pm |
cdsloop wrote:
It has been 20 years or more since I have been close to a CA, my most recent experience is with a B. But there should be a drain on the PTO, the transmission, and near the rearmost section of the torque tube. |
Thank you so much CDsloop!!! Because of your reply I realized I was not removing the farthest most forward drain plug and that's where all of the milky looking oil was left when I pulled it out there was a lot of nasty-looking oil that came out today. So now again I will add more oil end drive it around a bit and drain again but now this time will be three plugs that get removed 🤪 Thanks Matt
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 6:27pm |
Here's hopefully a clear picture so you can actually see the part numbers I'm referring to because once I posted the previous about the exploded view I tried viewing it and it's all blurry... 
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 2:00pm |
   Okay so I got the larger sections removed from my pump which is the very last thing that I can take apart to ensure everything is as clean as I can get it shown in the pictures above... You can see the slots that I'm referring to that are cut into the sleeves (above the majic marker#18 picture)they are perpendicular to how the plungers run through the length of them along with the various holes that are perpendicular.(you need to zoom in to see what I'm talking about) they look like keyways on the end of each sleeve... my question is does it matter the orientation/ "rotation wise speaking" of the slots and holes that are in these plugs that the smaller plugs go inside of or will the hydraulic pressure find and Orient these the way they need to be?(the parts I'm referring to our number 34 which there's only one of, and number 32 with there are three of on the exploded view I'm showing below) Thanks Matt 👍 
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 31 Mar 2020 at 5:40pm
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cdsloop
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 12:16pm |
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It has been 20 years or more since I have been close to a CA, my most recent experience is with a B. But there should be a drain on the PTO, the transmission, and near the rearmost section of the torque tube.
Edited by cdsloop - 31 Mar 2020 at 12:37pm
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 11:53am |
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I removed the rearmost drain plug that is a magnetic type I believe and one other one that is at the very lowest point that I could find. Where is the third drain plug that I need to drain from?
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 11:44am |
I'm sure that Hunt4Allis will forgive you, cdsloop. That could be the issue..are you referring to tranny, differential, and pto housing?
Thanks. Dave
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 31 Mar 2020 at 11:52am
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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cdsloop
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 11:36am |
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Forgive me for asking, but you are pulling all three plugs and draining each well when you are changing the fluid, correct? It surprises me that you are getting such contaminated fluid after the first complete drain. It will cross contaminate if you don't drain all three cavities...
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 10:27am |
Not sure whose post that might have been - but not mine!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 6:57am |
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I had a reply on here or a different thread and it may have been yours Dave m, that said they used to put kerosene in when they were really dirty and I thought he said drive them around the yard at his shop. I could not find this post again. I'm wondering if driving around a short distance would hurt anything or if just putting it in leaving it sit overnight and then emptying it would be the best thing?
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