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Gleaner F3 pump timing

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wekracer View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 4:46pm
Long story short we bought an f3 two years ago and the flex ring failed last fall. We had the pump rebuilt and the neighbor helped me put it back on in the field. It started hard and ran rough until it warmed up. We are going to check the timing but I don’t know for sure what it needs to be.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 10:27pm
The hard start and run rough sounds normal for that engine if below 60 deg. Ed will know timing spec. My f2 can take upwards of 10 seconds to start hitting on all 4
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wekracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 5:57am
I had an F2 like that too but this one started pretty good before we rebuilt the pump. We put it back on without moving the crank and had the line lined up in the window but I’m thinking there may have been some play in the gears and the timing might be off a little. At least I’m hoping.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 7:03am
spec is 18*
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 8:53am
Yeah,I'm thinking that just pulling/replacing pump will not take care of back lash. Be wise to check timing by rolling into position by hand. I guess technically the timing couldn't change from what it was before if no loosening of adjustment was made....but I don't know how that one is adjusted. Some things have slotted drive gear,some rely on twisting pump body.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 9:16am
upon pump rebuild, if weight retainer gets replaced, I have seen many times the newly placed timing mark on it gets put in the wrong spot. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 12:26pm
So ED,what then? Port time and remark?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wekracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2019 at 9:31pm
I’m rather curious as well. I hear about the front pulley slipping and the pump being out of time with the marks. How do you know for sure they are in time?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2019 at 1:31pm
ok, so what happens is most of the time, timing marks are pretty close, but once in a while a pump will need timed slightly off from what spec may be. So, in this case, with it shut off, move the timing one way about 1/16" (on the flange), if better, good, If worse, go the other way from starting point. I'd scribe a line on flange for this, and not mess with bringing it up on time and removing the pump window. You basically need to ask the engine where it needs timed. A lot of hassle is avoided if everything is brought up in time before removing, so you'll know if it was timed different then spec. good luck!
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wekracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 12:07pm
Update. We turned the engine until the lines were aligned and it was at 12 degrees. We turned the pump as far as it would go in the slots. Then we backed the engine up and went back forward so the slack was out of the gears and we are at 15 degrees. It started and ran better but still needs more work.

I Guess we need to move the gear 1 tooth but that will have to wait till after harvest
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 12:10pm
Yep, you'll need to carefully slide the shaft and gear forward just enough to jump a tooth ahead. Don't pull it any farther than needed, you will allow the fuel side seal to come out of the pump. Then you'll be able to be back in the middle of the slots. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wekracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2019 at 6:11pm
That’s good info. Thanks Ed
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