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Pre series d-17?

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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 9:24pm
Blue smoke or haze out of the exhaust usually means it's engine overhaul time. Pistons/sleeves, valves and valve guides.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 9:32pm
The blue haze, in question, will be from oil burning. Continuous, regarding rings but, if it occurs,  when opening the throttle, it will be from warn, intake valve guides.
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2019 at 9:52pm
Matt,
 Just get it! Looks pretty good from here!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dt1050 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 7:24am
I don't worry about a little smoke when it's throttled up.  my d17 series one engine was stuck twice, once before I owned and then it was stuck again when I bought it.  took about a week and it was running and has been smoking like a flue since (probly broke a ring freeing it up).  it uses quite a bit of oil...(leaking and burning it).  make sure you test the high low going down hill with engine revving a a bit to hold the tractor back, that's when they will normally pop out. a lot of times on level ground they will work fine.  

these are good old machines and mine has done a lot of work.  check for psteering leaks.
Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 10:47pm
Okay I don't think mine has power steering although with it being a wide front end it steers pretty easily...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dt1050 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2019 at 5:08am
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:

Okay I don't think mine has power steering although with it being a wide front end it steers pretty easily...

power steering is nice with a loader mine has a 7.5ft bucket.  you couldn't steer it with out power steering...lol.   but aside from the power director popping out of gear i don't think there are any real issues with these machines and  unlike the older machines the engine should hold you back when going down hill a real plus on a hillside like mine. lol
Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 12:11am
Just got this delivered yesterday!


I can now hopefully do some of my own farm fields by myself without having to rely on anyone else to plow or cut my fields( my collection is now my dad's 1950 AC-b, 1953 AC-ca, and last edition a 1959 AC- d-17)
Now it's just a matter of finding the time to put em to work( which I've already started to use my CA this year finally for BH work, post hole work, and possibly run my 80t sickle mower for a second cutting hay for our beef cows

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 01 Aug 2019 at 12:16am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 12:38am
Overall, it looks very nice. Did you get a blade with it, too?

Enjoy!
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 1:08am
Yes,7'snap coupler rear blade, 3 bottom plow from a WD converted to a snap coupler, snap coupler tow bar.
I know the previous owner used the rear blade but the 3 bottom plow is a bit rusted solid at the hand crank for height adjustment so it's untested...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 7:58am
Matt,
 The 17 will be your work horse for sure! Start soaking that adjuster on the plow, then later some heat to loosen the rust. Tractor looks good! Have fun with your new toy!  Your collection is growing! You need to add a WD45 in there too!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 8:17am
I'd get a set of "snap coupler" lift arms for the plow before you use it!
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 8:48am
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:

Ok, from what I'm being told this tractor is all original and had no modifications done to it it looks really intact and like it has not been messed with (unlike a lot of the tractors I've been going to look at this one looks so far pretty good) he has it priced at 3000 and it includes a 7-foot rear blade
Thanks Matt
I gave $3k for mine about 8 years ago.  Much like what you're looking at, all intact, not much 'mechanic modifications' done to it, paint ok and tires/rims were functional.  Currently in the process of upgrading my tires and rims.  I'd say good price and the blade is a bonus.
D17 Series 1
Allis B- 1939
Allis B- 1945
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 10:52am
Originally posted by frnkeore frnkeore wrote:

The blue haze, in question, will be from oil burning. Continuous, regarding rings but, if it occurs,  when opening the throttle, it will be from warn, intake valve guides.
I've known this for a while, but never understood why the valve guides usually only let oil past them when opening the throttle. Can someone explain that? 
My initial thought was when opening the throttle, the increased "suction" from the pistons on the intake stroke is what pulls the oil through the worn guides, but I don't know if that's right. 


Edited by CrestonM - 01 Aug 2019 at 10:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Long Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 4:30pm
I can almost guarantee you will be happy with this addition.  We were still in business when the D-17 came out as dealers we were very pleased to see it.  Had good power and over time has proven to be an outstanding unit.  Very few problems.
Looks like you made an excellent purchase.  The D-17 came when we needed a larger, more powerful unit.  Was a "hoss" at the time. 
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Matt,
 The 17 will be your work horse for sure! Start soaking that adjuster on the plow, then later some heat to loosen the rust. Tractor looks good! Have fun with your new toy!  Your collection is growing! You need to add a WD45 in there too!
Regards,
 Chris


It has tripled in last couple years 😆

It's kinda krept up on me from my earliest memories with my pops driving the b plowing our garden ( me usually standing on plow to get it to start into our blue clay we had at home in spots...) Or watching him plow our driveway out of winter snowfalls
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 10:27pm
Originally posted by Don(MO) Don(MO) wrote:


I'd get a set of "snap coupler" lift arms for the plow before you use it!


Ok, why?
Right now it's hooked up with what I would call a " ball & socket type of hook up ( I removed the snap coupler grips off of the lift arms and slid what was already mounted on the plow over these arms, which have a screw to tighten down onto the arms- I believe that this 3 bottom plow was paired with a 45 the guy also had for sale)
Thanks Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 12:27am
Good looking tractor in it's work clothes!  I'm sure you will be happy with it.  Not sure that trailer is strong enough for that tractor though, lol.  What do you have to pull the trailer?

"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 12:36am
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

Originally posted by frnkeore frnkeore wrote:

The blue haze, in question, will be from oil burning. Continuous, regarding rings but, if it occurs,  when opening the throttle, it will be from warn, intake valve guides.
I've known this for a while, but never understood why the valve guides usually only let oil past them when opening the throttle. Can someone explain that? 
My initial thought was when opening the throttle, the increased "suction" from the pistons on the intake stroke is what pulls the oil through the worn guides, but I don't know if that's right. 

It happens because under idle, you have the highest vacuum. The vacuum is pulling oil through the guild but, there is not enough air flow, to get it all into the combustion, until the throttle is opened.
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2019 at 5:57pm
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:

Originally posted by Don(MO) Don(MO) wrote:


I'd get a set of "snap coupler" lift arms for the plow before you use it!


Ok, why?
Right now it's hooked up with what I would call a " ball & socket type of hook up ( I removed the snap coupler grips off of the lift arms and slid what was already mounted on the plow over these arms, which have a screw to tighten down onto the arms- I believe that this 3 bottom plow was paired with a 45 the guy also had for sale)
Thanks Matt

I would have to do a little more research but I believe the SC type implements should have the SC type lift latches for safety. If the bottom SC joint would ever open and or release the plows would push up on the SC latches and release the plow from the tractor.
Having it fastened tight might allow the plows to pivot around that point and end up on top of the driver. Now I am not in any way a expert on these, but I believe that is the design intent of the Allis SC (snap coupler) design. I believe you said your plows have been converted from a pin hitch to a SC. So that may have been the system used on the WD prior to the SC system. Hope others will chime in.
I really like your 17! Mine is still in its work cloths and the wife said it really doesn't look good with these other painted tractors! Maybe a hint of another project in the works??
Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 03 Aug 2019 at 5:57pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2019 at 6:19pm
Ok thanks
My Sparks plugs are autolite 303's and wires are 7mm with no boot covers on the plug side and they snap on but then are all loose after they "snap"? I'm not a motor head but an electrician and this doesn't seam good to me as a "good" electrical connection?( And it seams all 3 of my AC's are the same in this way...( I'm wondering if these are aftermarket plug wires that are loose because of not being specifically made for this application (is there specific diameter plug wires for certain plugs so they stay tighter after they fully snap down?) Or if they had the rubber boots where they snap onto the plug is that rubber what is supposed to hold them tighter?
Any thoughts fellas appreciated,
Thanks Matt

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 04 Aug 2019 at 10:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 10:24pm
I'm also replacing all battery connection s b/c after some looking they are all corroded and in need of some TLC, but the loose/ lack of rubber spark plug wires seem poor to me?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 2:39am
Correct battery?( Seems too small physically, there's alot of room length wise in battery box holder)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 7:27am
Matt,
Your doing good getting the electrical issues cleaned up. We used no rubber boot wires for years on WD series tractors. Dad would use a match book cover as a holder for the wire to allow the spark to jump and "clean the plug"! 
Just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the plug end a little till they fit tighter. Should be fine that way for a long time.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 7:56am
This is why you don't use pins to attach to the lift arms, with a snap couple plow.
Use the proper lift latches, unless you have a real hard head.
http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc473/SmbdyElz/Plow/PlowOOPS_zps4fea78d4.jpg


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 05 Aug 2019 at 7:57am
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 8:28am
Thanks Charley for posting the pic, I looked for this one and gave up. Yes is might happen with your plow setup. PLEASE change it!!!!! 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 8:56am
Another thing that contributes to this but doesn't get talked about too much is the wear in the snap-coupler system. If you step on the drawbar and it goes down several inchs, that's not good. The edges of the snap coupler 'bell' and the support it is pinned to wear over time, my opinion, the sloppier the more likely it is to uncouple. The spring in there is another consideration, if you're in there, replace it. They are not that expensive.

Using an implement that is snap-couple with pin-hitch lift links is a serious No-No. I'm sure a lot of farmers did it for years and got by. That pic  CTucker posted is good evidence not to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 12:39am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Matt,
Your doing good getting the electrical issues cleaned up. We used no rubber boot wires for years on WD series tractors. Dad would use a match book cover as a holder for the wire to allow the spark to jump and "clean the plug"! 
Just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the plug end a little till they fit tighter. Should be fine that way for a long time.
Regards,
 Chris


Ok thanks
Does a slightly loose spark plug wire on the spark plug end create running issues at all?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 2:23am
Only reason I ask is because I don't have anything to compare it to to know the difference between right and wrong...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 7:20am
Matt,
 Loose plug wire shouldn't cause a serious problem. Assuming the plugs are good. Is it running rough?
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 07 Aug 2019 at 7:31am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 7:36am
Originally posted by Hunt4Allis Hunt4Allis wrote:

Correct battery?( Seems too small physically, there's alot of room length wise in battery box holder)


Measure the length, width and height (including terminals) needed. Google "BCI Battery Sizes" and find the one that best fits. Ensure that the terminals are on the correct side. Between two different batteries of the same size, reserve capacity is more important than CCA. Don't get suckered into paying more for a battery with a long warranty as that warranty would probably only apply to truck and automobiles.


Edited by DougS - 07 Aug 2019 at 8:30am
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