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Sugarmaker 
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Location: Albion PA
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 Topic: Pre series d-17?
Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 8:17am |
Matt, Your D17 has about the same patina as mine. I see you have the top link attachment added. Looks similar to what I built. I found that I would have liked to have my eyelets up on the top allowing a couple more inches for the top link. I could barely get my brush hog hooked up. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 7:06am |
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Someone has added that to the tractor so that they could connect a two-way cylinder and have a breather for the second hose thru the tractors hydraulic sump. No advantage over the D-14, except you can use a two-way ram with no modifications.
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Hunt4Allis
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Location: Ohio
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Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 2:15am |
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So this system of pressure and return line is what benefit compared to let's say my CA with only a pressure line?
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frnkeore
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Joined: 07 May 2019
Location: Southern Oregon
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Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 1:47am |
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Those lines are for a hydraulic cylinder on the implement.
Quick couple is pressure and the rubber is the return line.
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 9:00pm |
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Ok, but a d17 is a power raise only correct with no hydraulic power down?
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Scott B
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 8:37pm |
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They all have them. They original were both steel. Your rubber hose is a replacement
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D17 Series 1
Allis B- 1939
Allis B- 1945
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 4:35pm |
  I'm wondering why I have what seems like a supply and return line on my d-17 in these two pictures it shows the rear and then the side of the tractor where the lines go into? anyone seen this before or is this how all of them are?
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 4:06pm |
 Sugarmaker wrote:
Matt, Loose plug wire shouldn't cause a serious problem. Assuming the plugs are good. Is it running rough? Regards, Chris
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It seams to sound like it misses a bit but all my ac tractors do this...
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 1:20pm |
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If anything,a loose plug wire will make a hotter spark at the plug electrode but I'd bet you couldn't prove it on a dyno. Loose fit VS snug.
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DougS
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Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 7:36am |
Hunt4Allis wrote:
Correct battery?( Seems too small physically, there's alot of room length wise in battery box holder)
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Measure the length, width and height (including terminals) needed. Google "BCI Battery Sizes" and find the one that best fits. Ensure that the terminals are on the correct side. Between two different batteries of the same size, reserve capacity is more important than CCA. Don't get suckered into paying more for a battery with a long warranty as that warranty would probably only apply to truck and automobiles.
Edited by DougS - 07 Aug 2019 at 8:30am
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 7:20am |
Matt, Loose plug wire shouldn't cause a serious problem. Assuming the plugs are good. Is it running rough? Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 07 Aug 2019 at 7:31am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 2:23am |
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Only reason I ask is because I don't have anything to compare it to to know the difference between right and wrong...
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 12:39am |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Matt,Your doing good getting the electrical issues cleaned up. We used no rubber boot wires for years on WD series tractors. Dad would use a match book cover as a holder for the wire to allow the spark to jump and "clean the plug"! Just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the plug end a little till they fit tighter. Should be fine that way for a long time. Regards, Chris |
Ok thanks Does a slightly loose spark plug wire on the spark plug end create running issues at all?
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 8:56am |
Another thing that contributes to this but doesn't get talked about too much is the wear in the snap-coupler system. If you step on the drawbar and it goes down several inchs, that's not good. The edges of the snap coupler 'bell' and the support it is pinned to wear over time, my opinion, the sloppier the more likely it is to uncouple. The spring in there is another consideration, if you're in there, replace it. They are not that expensive.
Using an implement that is snap-couple with pin-hitch lift links is a serious No-No. I'm sure a lot of farmers did it for years and got by. That pic CTucker posted is good evidence not to do it.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 8:28am |
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Thanks Charley for posting the pic, I looked for this one and gave up. Yes is might happen with your plow setup. PLEASE change it!!!!!
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 7:56am |
This is why you don't use pins to attach to the lift arms, with a snap couple plow. Use the proper lift latches, unless you have a real hard head. 
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 05 Aug 2019 at 7:57am
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 7:27am |
Matt, Your doing good getting the electrical issues cleaned up. We used no rubber boot wires for years on WD series tractors. Dad would use a match book cover as a holder for the wire to allow the spark to jump and "clean the plug"! Just take a pair of pliers and squeeze the plug end a little till they fit tighter. Should be fine that way for a long time. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 2:39am |
Correct battery?( Seems too small physically, there's alot of room length wise in battery box holder)
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 10:24pm |
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I'm also replacing all battery connection s b/c after some looking they are all corroded and in need of some TLC, but the loose/ lack of rubber spark plug wires seem poor to me?
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 03 Aug 2019 at 6:19pm |
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Ok thanks
My Sparks plugs are autolite 303's and wires are 7mm with no boot covers on the plug side and they snap on but then are all loose after they "snap"? I'm not a motor head but an electrician and this doesn't seam good to me as a "good" electrical connection?( And it seams all 3 of my AC's are the same in this way...( I'm wondering if these are aftermarket plug wires that are loose because of not being specifically made for this application (is there specific diameter plug wires for certain plugs so they stay tighter after they fully snap down?) Or if they had the rubber boots where they snap onto the plug is that rubber what is supposed to hold them tighter?
Any thoughts fellas appreciated,
Thanks Matt
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 04 Aug 2019 at 10:19pm
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 03 Aug 2019 at 5:57pm |
Hunt4Allis wrote:
Don(MO) wrote:
I'd get a set of "snap coupler" lift arms for the plow before you use it! |
Ok, why?
Right now it's hooked up with what I would call a " ball & socket type of hook up ( I removed the snap coupler grips off of the lift arms and slid what was already mounted on the plow over these arms, which have a screw to tighten down onto the arms- I believe that this 3 bottom plow was paired with a 45 the guy also had for sale)
Thanks Matt |
I would have to do a little more research but I believe the SC type implements should have the SC type lift latches for safety. If the bottom SC joint would ever open and or release the plows would push up on the SC latches and release the plow from the tractor. Having it fastened tight might allow the plows to pivot around that point and end up on top of the driver. Now I am not in any way a expert on these, but I believe that is the design intent of the Allis SC (snap coupler) design. I believe you said your plows have been converted from a pin hitch to a SC. So that may have been the system used on the WD prior to the SC system. Hope others will chime in. I really like your 17! Mine is still in its work cloths and the wife said it really doesn't look good with these other painted tractors! Maybe a hint of another project in the works?? Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 03 Aug 2019 at 5:57pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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frnkeore
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Location: Southern Oregon
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Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 12:36am |
CrestonM wrote:
frnkeore wrote:
The blue haze, in question, will be from oil burning. Continuous, regarding rings but, if it occurs, when opening the throttle, it will be from warn, intake valve guides.
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I've known this for a while, but never understood why the valve guides usually only let oil past them when opening the throttle. Can someone explain that? My initial thought was when opening the throttle, the increased "suction" from the pistons on the intake stroke is what pulls the oil through the worn guides, but I don't know if that's right.
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It happens because under idle, you have the highest vacuum. The vacuum is pulling oil through the guild but, there is not enough air flow, to get it all into the combustion, until the throttle is opened.
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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JohnCO
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Posted: 02 Aug 2019 at 12:27am |
Good looking tractor in it's work clothes! I'm sure you will be happy with it. Not sure that trailer is strong enough for that tractor though, lol. What do you have to pull the trailer?
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 10:27pm |
Don(MO) wrote:
I'd get a set of "snap coupler" lift arms for the plow before you use it! |
Ok, why? Right now it's hooked up with what I would call a " ball & socket type of hook up ( I removed the snap coupler grips off of the lift arms and slid what was already mounted on the plow over these arms, which have a screw to tighten down onto the arms- I believe that this 3 bottom plow was paired with a 45 the guy also had for sale) Thanks Matt
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 10:07pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Matt, The 17 will be your work horse for sure! Start soaking that adjuster on the plow, then later some heat to loosen the rust. Tractor looks good! Have fun with your new toy! Your collection is growing! You need to add a WD45 in there too! Regards, Chris |
It has tripled in last couple years 😆 It's kinda krept up on me from my earliest memories with my pops driving the b plowing our garden ( me usually standing on plow to get it to start into our blue clay we had at home in spots...) Or watching him plow our driveway out of winter snowfalls
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Bill Long
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 4:30pm |
I can almost guarantee you will be happy with this addition. We were still in business when the D-17 came out as dealers we were very pleased to see it. Had good power and over time has proven to be an outstanding unit. Very few problems. Looks like you made an excellent purchase. The D-17 came when we needed a larger, more powerful unit. Was a "hoss" at the time.
Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
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CrestonM
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 10:52am |
frnkeore wrote:
The blue haze, in question, will be from oil burning. Continuous, regarding rings but, if it occurs, when opening the throttle, it will be from warn, intake valve guides.
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I've known this for a while, but never understood why the valve guides usually only let oil past them when opening the throttle. Can someone explain that? My initial thought was when opening the throttle, the increased "suction" from the pistons on the intake stroke is what pulls the oil through the worn guides, but I don't know if that's right.
Edited by CrestonM - 01 Aug 2019 at 10:54am
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Scott B
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 8:48am |
Hunt4Allis wrote:
Ok, from what I'm being told this tractor is all original and had no modifications done to it it looks really intact and like it has not been messed with (unlike a lot of the tractors I've been going to look at this one looks so far pretty good) he has it priced at 3000 and it includes a 7-foot rear blade
Thanks Matt |
I gave $3k for mine about 8 years ago. Much like what you're looking at, all intact, not much 'mechanic modifications' done to it, paint ok and tires/rims were functional. Currently in the process of upgrading my tires and rims. I'd say good price and the blade is a bonus.
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D17 Series 1
Allis B- 1939
Allis B- 1945
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 8:17am |
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I'd get a set of "snap coupler" lift arms for the plow before you use it!
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 01 Aug 2019 at 7:58am |
Matt, The 17 will be your work horse for sure! Start soaking that adjuster on the plow, then later some heat to loosen the rust. Tractor looks good! Have fun with your new toy! Your collection is growing! You need to add a WD45 in there too! Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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