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Engine Trouble |
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John-Paul
Bronze Level Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Posted: 24 May 2019 at 10:04pm |
Hello - I have a 1963 AC model D15 gasoline engine. Today, the engine starting out, sputtering and usually, dying. I can always start it right back up though. I cleaned the fuel cup and screen. There was a lot of sediment on the bottom, and I was hoping that would do the trick. It didn't. It seems like it is likely to cut out when the engine strains, like when you let off the clutch kind of quickly, or when it strains going up a slope. That is about all I know. I am a rookie when it comes to engines and tractors, so it will be easy to talk over my head. I have owned it for the past 6 months and this is the first issue of any kind. It has always purred like a kitten so far and has been a great cold weather starter. Help! Thank you!
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wade89
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Feb 2018 Location: Northern MN Points: 193 |
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Not being negative, but its hard to diagnose things like this without being there or without more info. How do the spark plugs look? Does gas run out of the carburetor throat when it dies? Is there alot of sediment in the tank itself? Could just need a carb rebuild.
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Pat the Plumber CIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Springfield,Il Points: 4675 |
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Take bowl and screen off . Open and drain into small bucket . Let run for a while and see if it slows down . If it does turn valve body out of tank and clean screen that is up in tank . If plenty comes out for a while work the other way and find the restriction.
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 7968 |
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sounds like some tiny grit made it to the carb main jet. Jump in with both feet and pull the carb and take it apart and blow it out.
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john(MI)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SE MI Points: 9263 |
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It could also be the condenser. Buying one and changing it would be a lot easier than tearing a carb apart. Try the easiest things first. There's also a drain plug on the bottom of the carb. You can pull it and might drain out some crud and also make sure the gas is getting that far. BTW, someone didn't happen to put an inline gas filter in the gas line did they?
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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John-Paul
Bronze Level Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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I do not see one, just the glass cup thing. Thanks for your reply!
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John-Paul
Bronze Level Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Thanks for everyone's replies so far. I will put everything under consideration. Please keep the good ideas coming!
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wekracer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
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I second points and condenser. When they act up they act like a fuel problem. And they do it immediately when load is applied. Fuel supply usually has to drain the fuel bowl on the carb. This is assuming a warm engine with fuel mixture correct.
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5637 |
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So... if you've been through the fuel system enough to determine that it's not having a lean-out issue, then the circumstance is ignition. An ignition system running an engine at light loades doesn't need to create much spark voltage. A lame yellow spark will light it... but once you add throttle and load, cylinder pressures rise dramatically, and as a result, it takes much more voltage to fire the mixture. So I'll second the condenser, coil, and points as higher suspect.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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AllisFreak MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1499 |
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I'd also say condenser.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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Walter(MO)
Bronze Level Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Location: Warrenton, MO Points: 127 |
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Since you had sediment in class bowl from experience I would unscrew glass bowl from gas tank and clean. I hope the tank is not full of gas.
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Stan IL&TN
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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I would first be sure you have good and steady fuel flow out the bottom of the carb. The carburetor bowl should have a small drain bolt that you can unscrew to allow you to drain the gas out of the carburetor. When it is removed you should have a steady flow of fuel come out. Let it run for a minute or two to be sure there is good flow from the tank. If this checks out then I would look at what others have mentioned about ignition issues.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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Walter(MO)
Bronze Level Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Location: Warrenton, MO Points: 127 |
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Another way you can tell if you have sufficient gas flow is to shut off gas and clean glass bowl. Put bowl back on an turn on gas. If the gas fills by drips and takes time to fill with no leaks between gasket and bowl probably is stopped up in neck of bowl unit. This will require unscrewing unit from tank to clean sediment out of neck.
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4380 |
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I, personally, think it's most likely a fuel problem. As Stan said, try and see if you have a strong, constant gas flow at the carb. If you don't, the inlet to the sediment bowl could be plugged up (as Pat said). You may have to drain the tank and remove the whole sediment bowl assembly to clean the inlet. I suspect that is your problem.
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21442 |
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What Walter says happened to Troy, my #1 D-14 this week. I tore the unit off and found a sliver of yellow plastic inside the neck !! Hmm, yellow plastic ? I figured out it has to be a sliver from a gas can filler tube. This AFTER I'd removed the entire tank and cleaned it, even though it was spotless inside.... OH well, the ol gal sure like to start and run now !!! Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Gerald J.
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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A gas tank cap that doesn't vent can cause those symptoms. See how it runs with the gas cap removed.
Gerald J. |
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Dakota Dave
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3893 |
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Thake the plug out of thenottom of the carb catch it in a clean container O used a small square cottahe cheese container if you e had a y dirt or water in ot whatever made it throught the sediment bowl will be im the bottom of the carb ig its perfectly clean thats not your problem if i leave a tractor setting out for any length of time and dont checkthe sediment bowl it draws the water into the carb itll start but run out of power and die. Drain the carb and im good. Always check the simplest thing first
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John-Paul
Bronze Level Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Thank you! I will check the fuel flows from the carb and the glass bowl.
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John-Paul
Bronze Level Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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I'm not sure who all will be following up with this, but the problem seems to be solved. It was a fuel clog. I first tested the flow from the carb and it seemed pretty good. Then I tested the flow from the glass debris bowl (not sure of proper term) right at the valve. It seemed slow, even though I have never seen a good or bad gas flow before. So I first had to empty the just topped-off tank of gas, and then I dropped the glass bowl unit. Even to an untrained eye, it looked clogged. There were a couple of pieces of hard rubber, or something, and a glob of silicone right in the flow hole. (I took pictures and wanted to upload, but I can't figure out how to do that.) I cleaned that up, and then inspected the inside of the tank. That is when I found another 3" long piece of silicone. I removed that. I reassembled and tested the flow, it was like night and day. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Also cool, is now I know that the condenser and/or carburetor could have easily been the culprits also, besides the fuel getting to where it is supposed to. I had to google 'condenser', but now I know where it is, along with the points and rotor...and the distributer cap. This knowledge has spurned me on to want to do a whole tune-up. Who knows when that was last done?! I appreciate everyone's efforts and help. Couldn't have done it without you guys. Thanks!
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4380 |
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Glad you got it fixed.
The only thing I would add is that coil and/or condensor problems usually require the engine to cool down significantly before it will restart.
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John-Paul
Bronze Level Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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I will keep that in mind - thank you!
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eryanh
Bronze Level Joined: 18 Aug 2018 Location: Windfall, IN Points: 20 |
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Sediment bowl.
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1958 AC D17 Series 1 NF
1949 Farmall M NF 1938 AC B |
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