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1951 WD |
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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I'll get there eventually but I'm almost at the point where I'm keeping an eye out for another running tractor just to have something I can use right now. Once I have a couple of these fixed up and available it won't be so much of an issue. Did have a question - do you remember having to ream out the new bushing that goes in the rear of the clutch/hyd pump/PTO drive shaft? I saw the pics of you cutting it out to remove it on your thread, but I'm curious if the transmission input shaft end fit inside the bushing with no reaming.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John, I dont think I had to ream it. Let me think on that a little. I dont have a reamer for that job and I dont remember borrowing one either. So maybe I lucked out. I do remember cutting the old one out. and I ordered the wrong one with out the oil groove from McMaster Carr. Got the correct one from Sandy Lake I believe. Any way mine went together OK. I will go back and review my pictures Maybe something will jog my old memory? Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
Ok I went back and looked at the pictures of my tussle with the pilot bushing. Correct me if I am wrong but is this a split bushing? Mine came out in two parts. I had cut a groove through it to try to remove it. If I did have to ream it it was with drill bit or just emory or a dremmel. Might have use the little drum sanding wheel on a dremmel??
Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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Yep, it's the split bushing. I saw your removal pictures but didn't see any mention of reaming it and neither did the manual, so I'm wondering if I have something wrong. The transmission input shaft is measuring right at .748-.749 in most spots and the bushing after installation is .738. Maybe I need to pull it back out and make sure I don't have any scratches or something in the bore of the clutch shaft that might cause the ID to be too tight when installed. Or I could just sand it a little with the die grinder, too.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
If you can pull it out easily and clean the bore I think I would try that first. The split ring style should allow it to open to the correct inside dimension. Maybe kicked up a burr. doesnt take much to get .012 reduction. I guess about any thing can happen on these old tractors. Keep your expectations low, and keep hitting at the project! I have a WD cam shaft setting here on the bench too!:) Just sayin. But you never know it may not be any better than the one you have. I have a whole pile of WD stuff that I need to go through in the vast warehouse and inventory and decide if I am keeping it or moving it down the road? Let me know. Sometimes its the little things that are missing or broken that help bring the project together. Lots of folks on here have helped me with good used parts for my Allis Addiction problem! Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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I pulled the bushing back out, cleaned up the bore of the clutch shaft, and still had to take a fair amount of material out of the bushing after it was installed. The die grinder got a careful workout between lots of measuring of the ID. It definitely wasn't perfect without a reamer but I think it's much better than the old worn bushing.
Went to the machine shop with the head today only to learn that he can't do the intake/exhaust port surface with his equipment due to the casting sticking up for the water passages on that side of the head. His machine wouldn't be able to clear that. He suggested a couple of other shops and said basically they'd need a Bridgeport to reach in there, I guess. I will have to get in touch with them. I did get the input shaft back in with new bearings, and made a new gasket for the shifter housing and bolted that back on. I think I even got everything lined up correctly since it seems to shift in and out of gears correctly.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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The worm gear steering shaft was severely worn where the frame support attaches, so I built it up as best as I could with my little Harbor Freight flux core welder and ground it down. It's ugly and I didn't consistently build up as much weld as I should have but I think it's no worse than before. I wanted to start by practicing with this piece before building up the vertical steering shaft in the front casting, where the bearing goes. I've never done a repair like this - thanks to Chris for covering that in his threads for his tractors!
![]() ![]() I'll also need to replace or maybe weld a piece of tubing in the support that bolts to the frame, which is the other half of the equation. It surprised me that this area was so worn out since the pedals etc. aren't that worn on this tractor. They must have forgotten to hit this zerk with grease over the years. It's kind of an interesting part since it appears to be a stamping that is then brazed together along the sides and threaded for the bolt. I wonder why AC didn't make it a casting. ![]() |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Dave(inMA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2395 |
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wjohn, nice work on the steering rod. I'm amazed at the amount of wear on that bracket. I'm thinking it'd be hard to use tubing to replace the missing material as the wear is almost entirely on one side. Might it be possible to build up the lower half with weld, then bore it out to original diameter?
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
I have one of those steering supports that is worn about the same amount. They never got greased!:) Also a stamping is almost always cheaper than a casting. That's a tough part to repair. Maybe find a good used one on a low hour junk tractor. Check with Brenda at Sandy Lake they might have a used one? I think you did good building up the worn rod. It will take another 70 years for it to be worn out again. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 06 Jul 2020 at 9:26pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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I was actually wondering if I can find a piece of tubing with close to the correct ID for the steering shaft (1" as I recall). I could cut off the current "round area/bushing" from the existing support so I could weld the new piece on there and drill and tap it for the zerk. Machining holes that large is probably outside of my shop's capabilities for a little while otherwise I would consider welding it up and doing that.
Chris, agreed on stampings usually being cheaper, but the fact that this appears to have a brazing operation too made me wonder. They made castings for so many other things that it just surprised me.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
Its just steel! You can repair it somehow! I think the tubing idea would work fine! Post some pictures when completed. The tractor is going to be like new! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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Spent most of the day working on the vertical steering shaft. It's an ugly process with this welder and my skills, but again, the shaft isn't as bad as it was before!
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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I also made a holder for valve train components last week out of a scrap piece of 2x6. I saw several others who had done this and I have to admit it's a great idea. I wish I had done it sooner to keep everything matched up and in order. I went ahead and made it big enough for a 6-cylinder (with 2 valves per cylinder) just in case I end up with the nearby HD-11 I have my eye on.
Getting ready for valve and lifter resurfacing one of these days. ![]() |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
The steering shaft looks very good to me! I had one of those welders and they were ok but when I changed and got a good used MIG with shielded gas, I could make a lot better welds! Nice holder for the parts. Did you get that package? If not let me know. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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Chris, I personally don't mind flux core even if it's a little uglier. It's so windy here most of the time. But yes, I will need to upgrade to a real (non-HF) welder someday in the not too distant future. Thanks for sending the camshaft - the journals have almost no wear. I'm trying to find a place to grind the lobes since a couple have just enough pitting that I don't want to put it back in as-is. Way better than my original cam though as that would've had to been spray welded and ground back down to original size or something for those journals.
The crankshaft was finished today and the engine kit came in, so I picked them up. .030" under was enough to clean up the crank. The Reliance rebuild kit looks alright at first glance, other than the head gasket seems a little cheap. ![]() |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
That crank looks great from here! New engine kit too. Its like Christmas at your place! Your tractor sounds a lot like the last one I got. Thanks for the update and pictures! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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Front hub service time... No nasty surprises, at least. The bearings have some wear but they'll survive for awhile longer. One side had less crusty grease in it than the other so it must have been worked on. Packing bearings is always messy but now I know that they have nice fresh #2 wheel bearing grease in them. Someone tapped the nut covers on Dad's WD so that you could mount a zerk and pump more grease in, and I'm thinking I may do that at some point on these, too. You just have to be careful to not go overboard.
I'm going to contact a few places about having the cam and lifters ground, and I have a line on a semi-local shop that should be able to machine the manifold surface on the head. They do work for the local AGCO dealer.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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Those hubs will work just fine! Good to check them out.
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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Made some progress over the last couple weeks but internet's been iffy. The narrow front is mostly back together, minus the worm gear shaft which will need a new seal. AGCO provides 354A and 355A tapered bearing race and cone to replace the original barrel-type bearing.
![]() The PTO gearbox is all cleaned up and put back together. I had to put a speedi sleeve on the used output stub shaft from my dealer as it was pretty pitted (but the bolt hole wasn't egged out like on my original). I didn't have enough room to use two so I only have one seal on there. I might add a second seal to try and keep grass from packing in there, even though it won't be sealing tight to the shaft. It might at least protect the inner seal somewhat from damage. The stub shaft seal is a National 471276 and the engagement shaft seal is a National 471554. ![]() The torque tube seals are also in, with the clutch shaft. I had a heck of a time getting the hydraulic pump side seal to not roll over when inserting the shaft, but I finally got it. I sure hope I didn't damage either of the seals when installing. I'll probably get it bolted up to the trans sooner rather than later so I can fill it and see if it leaks, before putting the engine back in. I did appear to locate the speedi sleeves pretty well for the seal placement. Pump side: ![]() Hand clutch side: ![]() I'm also having a hard time finding the right size snap ring that goes on the end of that shaft, retaining the PTO drive gear. My AGCO dealer says it's not available anymore but I'm not able to match it up in any of the snap ring catalogs I have looked at so far. PS lots of handy seal drivers can be made from random pieces of PVC pipe, and various adaptor fittings.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
You wont regret getting those new seals in there! Good photos too. Thanks for posting! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 07 Aug 2020 at 8:54pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3409 |
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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I'd feel dumb if I didn't replace those seals while I was this far into it!
I ended up putting a new bearing on the PTO gear end of the clutch/hyd pump shaft. I used an FAG 6207 which has fewer balls in it than the original - I am not too worried about this but it will be something to keep an eye on if I'm able to use this tractor for much tillage or PTO work like I plan on. Then there's that darn snap ring missing that I still need to hunt down a replacement for in a catalog (I hope). ![]() No pictures yet, but the torque tube and clutch housing are bolted back together with a new gasket. I did discover that wrapping a 1" strip of glossy coupon/junk mail paper around the clutch shaft splines and rotating it slightly seemed to be the easiest and safest way to slip that seal in there with the shaft already in place. I will have to remember that one for the future. I tried electrical tape but the stuff I have is pretty old and didn't want to stay put while sliding the seal on. I had to do a little filing on the end of the shaft where it goes into the pilot bearing as it had been dropped or smashed into something at some point in its life, and mushroomed somewhat. Should make lining everything up and reinstalling the engine easier. ![]() |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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I've been slacking - a fencing project and a number of other things sidetracked me. However, I did keep a few things moving: the cam I got from Sugarmaker has been reground, and the head has been machined. I resurfaced the lifters in my valve grinder but still need to do the seats and valves. I am chipping away at a pretty good sized order of various things (rod/main shims, gauges, water pump, thermostat and housing, etc.) that I need to put in before I can put the engine back together.
I also picked up some stuff from my AGCO dealer - the disintegrated shifter washer, cam bearings, front steering shaft seal, etc. I did take the radiator shutters off the other day before it got so darn cold. I have never had a tractor that had them mostly intact. I think I can get a new aftermarket crank and repair the broken attachment point on my shutters and have a functional set again, but I'm putting a thermostat in this tractor and not putting the shutters back on. Is there anything I need to know about adding a thermostat to a WD that didn't have one from the factory? My housing is rusted out so I'm ordering a new cast housing and a 180 degree thermostat. If there are any other parts needed please chime in. ![]() |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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Got more parts in yesterday, including the thermostat and housing. I do have a question on radiator caps as mine is shot - the AGCO parts book shows a 7 psi cap for WDs and a 4 psi cap for WD-45s. Should I get a 4 psi cap for my WD now that I am putting a thermostat in?
Not sure what else would be different between a WD and WD-45 to drive different cap release pressures.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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It was time to clean up the valves from another project and I had time to fit the WD valves in as well. I hope to touch up the seats in the head soon.
This was my first time ever doing valves in my Sioux grinder/refacer. It's pretty satisfying to see the valve face as it gets cleaned up. The intakes had a pretty good groove worn into them but the exhausts didn't need much material removed. I'm curious to check the fit between the valves and seats when I'm done and see if I did a decent enough job.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
Have never resurfaced a valve, but your machine looks like it will do a good job for you! I think I bought new valves for the WD45 project. Thanks for the update. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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LeonR2013 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500 |
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It's amazing how old this thread is, but still current. Looking good. It is sort amusing that what started out as a more or less clean up has turned out to be total rebuild. You'll be glad you did because you'll probably never wear it out. Thanks for posting all the pics. Leon
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John,
Your doing what most of these tractors need at this stage in there life. But its a lot of work, dollars, and time too. I hope your planning to make it look as good on the outside as it works on the inside? Hint:::: hint! Keep going your getting into the good stuff soon. Engine assembly is right around the corner! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1769 |
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Thanks guys. I was helping a friend with his Ford NAA's hydraulics the other day and warned him if he wants to get it back together and operational anytime soon he probably shouldn't listen to me too much when I say you should probably clean this out, inspect that, etc.... As it's been a year now since I started in on this tractor. Yes, it started out as a rear main seal repair, but as bad as the crank and cam bearings were, I felt like I had no choice but to go through the engine. It didn't have too many hours of use left in it before bad things happened, I think.
Chris, someday! I need one I can use first, than I can take the time to get the others into service and make them pretty!
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8166 |
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John I understand completely. Having the mechanicals refurbished will make the tractor feel and preform as from the factory.
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 05 May 2021 at 12:21am |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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