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Next project: 7060

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ozarkfarmer01 View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Nov 2016
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ozarkfarmer01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 9:17pm
You might try Bobby Henard Tire Service for used rears.



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Orange Glow View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 12:53pm
I’ll check into that for tires! Thanks!! It would be really nice to find a good used set of radial either 18.4-or 20.8x38 tires for a good price.
I don’t know what it takes to ship a great big thing like a set of tires, but I see they’re in the MS, Alabama region, and I’m in Iowa. I’ll see what they usually do in a case like that.

On another note, I’m ready to remove the injection pump this afternoon, and get it and probably the injectors cleaned and the pump rebuilt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 2:20pm
take the top cover off pump first to look inside and see how it looks. If clean, you can always try running a hose from a clean fuel can right to the inlet of the injection pump, center rear. If it's working right, it should suck fuel out and start squirting out the loosened lines in short time. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 5:31pm
Originally posted by Orange Glow Orange Glow wrote:

I’ll check into that for tires! Thanks!! It would be really nice to find a good used set of radial either 18.4-or 20.8x38 tires for a good price.
I don’t know what it takes to ship a great big thing like a set of tires, but I see they’re in the MS, Alabama region, and I’m in Iowa. I’ll see what they usually do in a case like that.

On another note, I’m ready to remove the injection pump this afternoon, and get it and probably the injectors cleaned and the pump rebuilt.
 
Please get this thing RUNNING before you even THINK about rubber !!





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 6:29pm
Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

take the top cover off pump first to look inside and see how it looks. If clean, you can always try running a hose from a clean fuel can right to the inlet of the injection pump, center rear. If it's working right, it should suck fuel out and start squirting out the loosened lines in short time. 

Just from looking in the timing plate, it was brown and gummy looking. I got the timing mark found, got the pump off and took everything into town for rebuild and cleaning, including all the lines except the large one from the tank, and also took the injectors in.
It really ought to run after this, as that had to be the problem. It should be all done by Wednesday.

While I have the alternator off, it’s going to another town to be checked out, and (hopefully not) rebuilt.
The next job to do on it is to get the manifold off, and replace it. While it’s that far apart, I’m thinking the turbo ought to get checked out, and it’ll probably need $500-600 of work.
I’m fairly confident that it will run well after all this, hopefully by next weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 6:34pm

Here is my problem with the tires. I’m not even sure that I’ll make it home before the duals fly apart, let alone in the field.
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Lynn Marshall View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dana, Iowa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 7:15pm
If that tractor still has a Niehoff alternator,and if it's bad, I wouldn't waste the time or money on it. Just get a Delco with a tach correcting pulley and be done with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 8:01pm
Originally posted by Lynn Marshall Lynn Marshall wrote:

If that tractor still has a Niehoff alternator,and if it's bad, I wouldn't waste the time or money on it. Just get a Delco with a tach correcting pulley and be done with it.


Yes...there is some gold in them Niehoff alternator somewhere..I just haven't found it,,, still got the one I took off...
Look in the Shoup catalog for the Delco replacement,,it comes with the correct pully and wiring...$175'ish iirc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2018 at 10:18pm
Well, I have the pump and injectors back from rebuild, and $2,200 less in my pocket!!
They said everything was gummed up good, and the shut off cam and metering arm were broke off and laying in the pump. So, that left plenty of room for improvement, which means it has a good chance at running now!!
I’ll try and get it put together tomorrow, and maybe try to start it again.
The alternator checked out good, luckily.
As soon as it’s running good, I’ll change the oil and bring it the five miles home, then work on the manifold and maybe the turbo as well.
I have been trying to pick up all the filters for it, and Napa’s cab air filter was $93!! The outer engine air filter was $40, and I haven’t got the prices on the rest yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:28am
Seems all filters are pricey today. We need em so just pay up and move on....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:28am
WOW! $2200? Ouch! They only get that high in my shop when major components are needed, like a head & rotor, cam ring, or housing. Hope it runs good now!
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 12:25pm
good luck! Keep us posted!
sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 1:10pm
They did have to replace the cam ring, and they had three pages of other stuff, coming to $1,200 parts, and around $900 labor.
I got the pump and lines mounted, now for the injectors, then I’m going to replace the fan, alternator, and A/C belts. As long as I don’t freeze into place, that is!!
Hopefully it runs good now, it better!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 1:16pm
If you can get your hands on non-bio diesel all the more better
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:56pm
We got the injectors in, now all that’s left is getting the lines hooked up, putting the hand primer on, putting the alternator back on, then it should be ready to crank.
We usually don’t run the bio diesel, but I think it only has problems when it sits around. This tractor won’t sit around anymore now!! It pays to keep them moving.
Hopefully tomorrow it’ll be warmer, and we can start it then. We would have almost got it today, but it was cold at 20 degrees this morning, and by late afternoon the windchill was -5!

Edited by Orange Glow - 28 Dec 2018 at 8:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2018 at 5:21am
Check it’s engine air filter & external inlet pipe for bird nests. They love to build nest inside the pipe right above the filter canister.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:57pm
Today it runs!!! It took a few tries of getting the air bubbles worked out, then it started and ran smoothly!! It revs good, and purrs like a kitten.
I did replace the air filters, so that should be good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sagefarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:01pm
Congratulations.  Keep pictures coming
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skateboarder68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:16pm
Good job! That had to be a pretty great sound hearing it run!
Orange & Silver still earnin their keep on the farm: R62, Series IV D17 nf, 185, 6080, 6080 fwa, 220, 1968 D21, 7045, DT240.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 5:47pm

It is at its new home now!!! I drove it about five miles, then around the yard a few times. It runs perfectly, shifts smoothly, and is just a great tractor!!
I just can’t hardly hold all the excitement!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim NH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 6:35pm
 I'm glad it all worked out for you, that's a very nice looking tractor. .    Tim
1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1852 Moore Farm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 8:17am
Sometimes...you eat the bear. Congrats!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 6:23pm
Agco is actually cheaper on the cab air filter.

Nice looking 7060!
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan Hauter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 6:27pm
I have two 7060's. 1 red belly & 1 black belly. I'very really enjoyed reading your story & all the posts. Please let us know how it goes when you use your tractor. Congratulations on your progress to date & best of luck as you put your girl to work!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 6:49pm
I got it cleaned up and waxed, changed the antifreeze and filter, and replaced the shut off cable so far. I also picked up a new cab kit, floor mat, water temp/ fuel gauge, and air conditioner hose from Agco.
I still need to change the hydraulic oil and filters.
It was leaking some oil out of the axle seals while it was sitting, but after driving it for awhile, it almost seems like it might have dried up.
We do have two new radial 18.4R38’s, and a well used pair of Radials for the duals, to put on it.
We also need to set the tires to 30” rows, and it looks like the duals are already there. They are 60” from the drawbar. The inside ones are 36”, and to make it perfect they would need to be 30” from the drawbar. We won’t be able to go all that, because they would rub on the cab.
How hard is the removal of the factory duals?
I have enjoyed running this tractor so far, and can’t wait to get it in the field this spring!
Thanks for all the replies!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 7:44pm
Don't think you can quite get to 30 unless rubbing cab. My 8070 is close to 4 in over 60 I think. Still side dress corn ok...18.4's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 6:58am
Congratulations on getting er going, Garrett. Makes me prouder n a peacock to see young folks such as yourself taking an interest in allis stuff. Speaking from experience, 7060's are AWESOME! Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2019 at 9:20pm
Steve, that’s good to know about still being able to side-dress. That’s what I was wondering, if they would be close enough to work good. I haven’t had a chance to measure, but I believe our John Deere 4255 is a similar width, except it doesn’t have the power adjust rims. It is as close as can get to the cab, and it works well for spraying and such.

Thanks, Darrel!! I just started farming this year (my first out of school) and this 7060 will run the bean planter. My neighbor has a really nice heated shop, that my cousin has been working in, so he also let me bring in the 7060. I’ve mainly just been cleaning, brushing, and vacuuming so far, but I did get a couple pieces of the cab kit put on today.
I removed the shields around the dash, and cleaned out a bunch of mice mess, and put a deal in to remove the odor. It seemed to work, and with the new foam, it ought to smell like it did in 1978!!
There was some green foam on top of the cab, under the white part, and I’m trying to get some new stuff for it. The one local store didn’t have any, so I may need to get some online. It’s probably 3/4” thick, by 5” wide and as long as the cab is wide. There was three stacked, which would make for probably 18’ total.
The new water temp/ fuel gauge works good as well!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 9:40pm

I’ve got the cab kit in, and put most of it all back together, except for the exhaust manifold and top of the cab. I got the back 2/3 of the manifold off, and the new one should be here tomorrow. The cracked piece came apart in halves. I got the gaskets for it, and am going to put new bolts in.
After that’s done, I still need to change the hydraulic/transmission oils and filters, get the foam roll for the top, then get the new tires mounted. And at some point I need to work on the air conditioner, and figure out what it’s going to take to get it back to going. What do you guys recommend on those pumps? It never worked for my cousin, so at least since 1996, and I already got the hose to replace one from the compressor to the front by the radiator.
I’ve seen various things about getting a conversion kit to a sendan or something like that, what is the benefits? I don’t even know what kind this is, but from reading about them, it’s probably an A-6 style, is that correct for a 1978 7060?
It sounds likely the seals are probably shot in it, and who knows what else.

And one of the last things, the seat. My cousin has most of another seat for it, and it’s in better condition, but it does have a worn spot or two as well. There’s no kits I’ve found for these, so is the only option to take it to an upholstery place to get fixed?
Thanks!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 6:25pm
I got the new manifold on, and took it out for a ride!! It had much better power. That foam in the cab kit made a huge difference in noise, and now it feels like I’m driving it in 1978!!
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