First post my Wd puller project.

Ideal weighting/balance is where you can just slide a sheet of paper under the front wheels as you spin out. Good luck hitting that every time !!!

it needs more weight on the nose' it will do a lot better' when it comes up like that you lose your drawbar height' your tires are working' if you keep the front down' it will take some motor then. because it will make the tires work more. also looks like the tires are a little soft' may need aired up a tad will also help keep your drawbar height' we run 20'' in' height.

Yeah it's been pretty cheap so far. Now I gotta buy tires and rims..... Going to cost more that the tractor lol

So overall I was very happy with the progress this season. I am slowwly getting to where I want to be.

The motor runs great and have great power. I have most everything dialed in besides tires.... Need bigger tires.

My local track has a 15.5 38 limit and my competition all runs 13.6 or 15.5. I am always just a few feet behind them with my little 26s

So the tractor runs great and I started this past season pretty happy. I was still moving a lot of things around on the tractor. I still couldn't quite get the front end light in 3500 so I started looking for a wc lightweight front pedistal

Here is what I found



I cut the 1/2 flange off the back. The lightweight front is 100lbs lighter.


Here it is mounted up

I don't think it looks too bad.

Here it is all painted up.

the combine weights have a smaller rpm drop before it kicks in I believe

I gave it an oil change and wired the fuel pump and ignition to a simple toggle switch.

The one thing I didn't really take any pictures of what the governor setup. This part was making me the most nervous. I didn't really understand what others were doing to this to convert to the tractor style governor.

I decided I was going to try the combine gov and if I didn't like how it acted I would figure out to change it over.

With a little work I was able to make the combine gov work. Its really hard for me to explain what I had to do so if anyone wants more info I will have to take some pics.

I am running the factory gleaner carb but with a cone style filter and a 12 volt fuel pump.



I was originally going to run and alternator but later ditched it and just run a battery and charger it between pulls.

I am also running a 4" straight pipe. It's pretty loud.



Here it is mostly buttoned up.

So my stock pulley was open all the way through the center. I could slide it on but when I lined it up with indent on the crankshaft it was about 5/8" to far forward (if I remember correctly).

I measured the distance I needed to move the hole on the pulley.

I took the pulley to a local machinist. I had him drill a new hole on the opposite side the correct distance from the end and he tapped it to accept the factory bolt.

Well worth the 20$ he charged.



I can't tell from the pic but I think it was takes during mockup.

Also used the factory water pump just had to drill out the holes.

So just as you guys said the motor was a direct bolt in. Absolutely no issues. The engine does touch the framerail on the right side but barely so I didn't notch the rail.

Here it is back together



This is one of my favorite pics. My son would do his homework on the work bench while I worked on the tractor. He was motivated to get it done so he could help.

Once I had this section gutted I was ready to put it back together.

Now onto removing the bell housing and hand clutch housing section. All pretty straight forward.