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D-15 Questions

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Tinslinger View Drop Down
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Joined: 10 Jan 2022
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D-15 Questions
    Posted: 26 Nov 2022 at 4:42pm
So I was plowing with the old D-15 when BANG!, then silence. We took it to the barn and it appears the coil went kabluey. Best advice on where to procure a coil for the D-15 Series II

Also, when in gear, the D-15 wants to roll, even with the hand clutch disengaged. Is there an adjustment for this? The brake holds it easy enough, but it shouldn’t do that.

In addition, it seems to have lost a lot of hydraulic fluid. What is the best stuff to use in these old tractors?

Thanks all for advice and answers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2022 at 5:13pm
As for the coil, any good auto parts store should have them.

As to the gear /clutch problem you mentioned, the hand clutch should be ENGAGED, either in hi or lo, to prevent rolling with the engine off. The procedure for adjusting the hand clutch is in the manual, could be as simple as adding or removing washers on the stop, at the stop, bottom of the hi/lo lever.

Universal hytran is OK for the hyd system, fill and dipstick, under the gas tank, right side...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2022 at 6:02pm
DAVE   Thumbs Up

standard 12 v coil used on all cars and trucks of that era.. make sure it has an INTERNAL resistor..

universal hydraulic / transmission fluid you can buy a Wal Mart, NAPA or any Farm Store...dont get the "cheapest" stuff... Look for "premium".. It should have the SPEC for several manufacturers on the back... Allis is 821 ....JD, CASE, CAT, MF will all be listed also.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 10:15am
Thanks Fellas! I just took the old coil off and it is a Delco-Remy. The only other marking on case is
058 12V. It appears they are fairly common online.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 5:47pm
The old fuel gauge is inop on the D-15. Are they easy to fix? I haven’t taken it apart yet.

Also, somebody wrote on the throttle, “93 octane only”. Does it really need high octane? Or was that just a suggestion?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 7:02pm
AC engineers said 93 octane and they need it unless you retard timing.         MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 7:14pm
Ok, thanks! I guess that’s what I’ll use then.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 7:30pm
The fuel gauge issue may just be a broken float. Cork from the factory and they deteriorate over time. New floats are available and are easy to replace. I just replaced it on my D17 which is the same. Remove the 4 screws and pull it out to find out. Entire new gauges are also available.

Edited by AC720Man - 27 Nov 2022 at 7:34pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec 2022 at 7:28pm
UPDATE

The new coil arrived today. I put it on and the old girl fired right up.

I had to buy a new fuel gauge as the old one didn’t look reparable. The needle didn’t move at all, but everything else looked okay, including the float.

I also had to replace the muffler, as the mini explosion blew out the seam. Instead of trying to weld it, I just got a new one.

I’m wondering how many hours this old tractor should have. It seems to me this tractor has very low hours, but I’m no expert.

As always, thanks guys for all your input and advice. You guys know everything! (Well, almost...)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 1:50pm
Ok, so now we have a new problem. Engine speed oscillation. Before the coil went kabluey, this was not an issue. Now, while pulling the plow, the engine speed oscillates a LOT. This could be a simple carb/gov adjustment, or is there more to it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 8:14pm
Could be because of difference in ground and depth of plow.               MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 8:54pm
Remember, 93 octane from the 1960's isn't the same as 93 octane of today. The method of calculations was either motor octane or research octane. I don't have a D-15 owners manual, but a series 2 was 8.0 to 1 compression ratio, the same as a One-Seventy and One-Eighty gas. They required 91 octane by the research calculation. As far as I can find on the internet, 91 research octane compares to todays 87 octane at your local gas station.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2022 at 7:09am
How big of plow are you trying to pull??? What gear are you trying to plow in ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2022 at 10:32pm
2 bottom snap coupler plow, the same one Gramps pulled for years. I’m pulling in 2nd gear low range. It pulled just fine for about 4 or 5 passes, then the oscillation/surging started.
I drove it to the barn and it acted fine. The next day I started it and it need 1/2 choke to stay running.

Edited by Tinslinger - 03 Dec 2022 at 10:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2022 at 11:15pm
if your choking it, your running out of fuel.... Gas cap has a vent ?   Filter not plugging up ?  Something inside the gas tank floating over the suction hole ?  Piece of crap got sucked into the carburetor and plugging the main jet ?
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 9:22am
Yeah, I think I’ll pull the carb and at least blow it out, look for stuff that shouldn’t be in there. If the condition of the motor oil is any indicator, the previous owner severely neglected this tractor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 10:08am
Start with the sediment bowl first !!  Remove the glass bowl and turn on the petcock fully. There should be TWO STREAMS of fuel gushing from the base. Flow rate should be more than a gallon in 10 minutes. If not the base inlet is plugged on the inside. Must have a clean screen. When this is correct and you still have issues, THEN take the carb apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 10:23am
sounds like a good first step. Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 1:11pm
another question I have is about adjustments to the power director lever, or what I call the hand clutch. If I’m sitting, engine idling with the transmission in neutral, all is well. If I put the tractor in any gear, when I release the foot clutch the tractor moves. I can easily stop it with the brake, but as soon as I release the brake, the tractor will move again. Is there some adjustment I need to make? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 5:24pm
I sure am learning a lot here. LOL I do happen to have a D-15 owner’s manual and I was reading about the fuel requirement. “These engines are designed to burn a regular grade of gasoline having an octane rating (research method) of 89 or higher.” So there’s that! LOL


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 5:31pm
The hand clutch is FINE !!!!!  When you get the oil inside warm enough you can't hold your hand on the torque housing, you will see that problem pretty much goes away. It will ALWAYS creep more in 1st gear and far less in 4th gear. Cold oil drags between the clutch discs....all six of them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pat the Plumber CIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2022 at 7:30am
If the tractor has sat for awhile the clutch discs and plates in the power director can rust or corrode where they are not protected by the fluid/oil. Manual says to replace fluid every 500 hrs or once a year to remove any moisture that has built up or seeped in. The more you use it and change fluid it will work like it is supposed to.
You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2022 at 5:25pm
thanks guys. I think I should probably just replace all the fluids in the tractor. The old loader leaked quite a bit, so I probably lost a quart there. I’ve already put 1 1/2 gallons of antifreeze in the radiator. I have changed the motor oil, which was a light chunky brown color. So I’ve got a good start already.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2022 at 5:28pm
re: light chunky brown

QUICK ,like a bunny, grab a 5 gallon bucket and cover the muffler !!!
'brown' probably indicates WATER, and it can get in... through the muffler,into cylinders, past rings, into the oil.....

I USED to use  old juice cans but kept blowing them off........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2022 at 5:38pm
Oh, no worries there. She is all nice and dry inside the pole barn now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2022 at 5:17pm
New problem: gas shut off on the glass bowl leaks. Not a lot, but too much for me. Is there a way to fix it, of just better to replace it? I’ve tried tightening it, but don’t want to break it. What’s best with these valves? Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2022 at 5:24pm
Sounds like you need new packing behind the nut.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2022 at 6:39pm
take the nut loose and screw the needle valve out..... wrap some dental floss or wax string around the stem and reinstall.... that is your new PACKING.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec 2022 at 7:50pm
Thanks guys, I’ll give it a whirl.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 4:17pm
UPDATE: I went to the local Allis Chalmers parts store and bought a carburetor rebuild kit. I drained the fuel tank and removed the shut-off valve at the glass bowl. The guys at the AC store said, “Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE JETS from that carburetor.” It was odd that my buddy, (an ace mechanic) told me the same thing. So I took the carb apart and sprayed every orifice I could find with Gum-Out. (Insert copyright symbol here). Put everything back together. I used some steel wool on the shut-off valve seat, and also some dental floss for nut backing when I put it back together. Well, after getting gas back into the carb, the old girl fired right up. I took the plow (2 bottom) and made a couple rounds just to see if she would pull and all is well. I did peer into the gas tank when it was empty and it looked all nice and shiney in there. My best guess is that I may have contaminated the fuel when I installed the new fuel gauge, but that’s just a hunch. Nevertheless, we’re back in business, and thank you all for you valuable advice, guidance and expertise.
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