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CHAINSAWS!!

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chaskaduo View Drop Down
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Joined: 26 Nov 2016
Location: Minnesota
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2019 at 1:19pm
Jetsaw


Edited by chaskaduo - 13 Jan 2019 at 1:19pm
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp
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Robert Musgrave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Musgrave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2019 at 7:34pm
Use a Dolmar 420 w/14" 3/8 LP chain bought in 2012--it replaces a Sachs-Dolmar Model 112 w/ an 18" bar bought in 1985.  It helps that I can go to a "smaller" saw while son and son-in-law have the big Makitas!  R. Musgrave
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A-C_220 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A-C_220 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:55pm
The old McCullochs are good saws, but they will numb your hands after running them a while like any old saw. I've been using a Husqvarna 272XP for firewood lately.
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wide View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wide Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 5:09pm
That jet saw was one of the coolest projects I've seen.
 What is everyone using to sharpen their chainsaw?
 Just using a file? "Get the gullet"
 Or using an electric sharpener wheel.
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 8:07pm
On the saw, I cut a notch into a chunk of trunk, set the brake, and use the file.

When I'm done, I pull them off, and they get a visit from the grinder.  I have an Oregon.

All my saws run 0.050" gauge, 3/8" pitch chain... and at the moment, I buy chains individually, but I'll be buying a bulk roll and a chain tool to make them up as I need them.  I don't like to sharpen or change chains while working... I just grab the second, third, and fourth saw... Wink

Oh, and I used the new-to-me 038 cutting up the big nasty maple out front... it came to me as the dirtiest chainsaw I've ever seen... darned thing was full of gas that smelled like a mixture of saurkraut and pinapple juice... dumped it out in the driveway, had to pour some fresh gas in it to make it light up Dead  then I poured fresh mix in, let it sit for 10 minutes, then set choke and pulled it six times, it popped, opened choke, and it woke right up... gave it 20 seconds of blipping, then one long rip to make sure it was pumping oil (it was) then placed it a 19" diameter limb... it went right through... and kept going for the next hour.

Many guys talk trash about some saws, and wave flags of others.  I've used Stihls, both older and newer, Echos older and newer... Dolmar, Husky, Efco, Shindaiwa, older Homelites, Makita... and found plenty of good saws.  I've also tried a few 'clones'.

Department store/big box store saws are frequently not-so-great... inferior materials, difficult to maintain, break easily, don't run well.  To me, a 'good' saw, is one that is easy to maintain... doesn't plug up with crap, runs well, idles well, and doesn't fall apart in operation... and of course, doesn't change in design so quick that parts become unobtainium in one year.

Lots and lots of products come out of China now... even stuff that's 'assembled in' (other places).  Big name manufacturers exhibit substantial quality control, and after that, rigid quality-assurance, on the machinery and components, and yes, there IS a difference in manufacturing quality when those parts are assembled into machines ELSEWHERE.  if you happen to buy a saw from a half-brand or overseas 'clone', as a kit, and take the time to assemble it WELL on your own, you'll wind up with a saw that's ALMOST as good as the 'real thing'.  You might get comparable performance if you 'blueprint' the clone... or substitute better aftermarket parts here-and-there.  If you open up a clone assembled overseas, don't be surprised to find metal shavings in the crankcase, casting flash on the piston and rod, a big glob of grease somewhere full of dirt, grit, or whatever.  IF that same assemblage of parts were taken to some other country, and assembled, to get a 'quality brand' name, you bet your bippy that assembly line would clean up the mess and make it better... because they want their assembly business to stay in business.

Anybody willing to define the difference between Quality Control, Quality Management, Quality Assurance, and Total Quality Production?

Quality control is when you weigh every piston coming down the assembly line, and do a statistical analysis of a large batch of parts, and then figure out where MOST of the parts fall in that group... then you throw out the ones that are NOT within the 'most' percentage.

Quality Management is when you look at the thrown out parts, and try to figure out why they're different, before you pitch 'em back into the melting pot.  Mebbie figure out if you can do something better about it.

Quality Assurance is when the parts are all done, and you go to put 'em together, you find out NONE of them fit for crap, and throw them ALL back in the pot.

Total Quality Production means you've realized that building it from the start, with the intention of making a good product, and solving all the problems WHERE they orginate, means that the Quality Assurance guy at the end of the line... doesn't have anything to do.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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ac fleet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac fleet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 1:08pm
In the timber I file a bit, but when I get done the chains come off and go on the Bel-saw grinder to get the teeth even! -- Don't matter how good of a filer you are, you can't get the angles and depth even on the teeth!
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