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Dale (Stonelick) 
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Joined: 13 Jun 2019
Location: Stonelick, Ohio
Points: 157
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 Topic: CA Rebuild
Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 2:05pm |
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I am rebuilding a CA serial #6939 (1951) engine # CE 152502 OA. The water pump has a filler plug that is not shown in the Operating Instructions and Parts Illustration manual. So I assume it was a replacement part from another tractor. Does anyone know if this water pump needs to be kept lubricated with oil? If so, what type of oil and how much? The water pump looks the same as the one in the manual, except for filler plug.
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
Points: 5636
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Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 3:20pm |
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5082
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Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 3:26pm |
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Replacement water pumps are made to fit newer tractors that uses the port. They do not need grease or oil.
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Dale (Stonelick)
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Joined: 13 Jun 2019
Location: Stonelick, Ohio
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Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 5:09pm |
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Dick - thanks for the information.
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Dale (Stonelick)
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Joined: 13 Jun 2019
Location: Stonelick, Ohio
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Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 11:58am |
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The Delco Remy starter doesn't turn the engine over. I can hear it try to rotate a little when I hook it to a 12 volt battery. I took it apart and it looks like the brushes are okay. I was able to turn the engine manually easily enough with the starter cover off, so nothing seems to be stuck. Anyone have any thoughts on how to get the starter to work?
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Hockeyman
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Joined: 31 May 2018
Location: Canada
Points: 41
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Posted: 30 Jul 2019 at 8:48pm |
 Dale (Stonelick) wrote:
The Delco Remy starter doesn't turn the engine over. I can hear it try to rotate a little when I hook it to a 12 volt battery. I took it apart and it looks like the brushes are okay. I was able to turn the engine manually easily enough with the starter cover off, so nothing seems to be stuck. Anyone have any thoughts on how to get the starter to work? |
Check page 132 of the PDF that Gerald J. posted... I'd start by checking the starter switch contacts
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11549
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Posted: 31 Jul 2019 at 4:44pm |
If you want, you can send it here and I can rebuild it for you. Just let me know if you want to leave it 6V or convert it to 12V. When I rebuild em', they even get new or rewound armatures in them, so they're close to brand new inside... HTH
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Dale (Stonelick)
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Joined: 13 Jun 2019
Location: Stonelick, Ohio
Points: 157
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Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 4:32pm |
Steve, thanks for the rebuild offer, but I think I got it working - kinda.
After watching several You Tube videos: (1) used 150 grit sandpaper on the commutator and armature (they had rust/film) and used a toothbrush and kerosine to flush, (2) the stators on the inside of housing had alot of red paint on them (overspray from paint job?). I used oven cleaner and toothbrush to dissolve the paint and flushed with kerosine, (3) I did not try to clean the brushes.
The CA is stripped down (no fuel or spark source) but I keep the spark plugs in place to keep dirt out. I first jumped the starter with a 12 volt battery source, but it would barely turn the engine. I removed the plugs and shot 12ml of transmission fluid in each piston. The starter then turned the engine very easily keeping the plugs removed. Could the engine have been hydro locked - I've used alot of transmission fluid in the pistons over the last couple months?
I guessing the starter might have difficulty turning the engine once I attach the alternator and water pump. If so, should I just repeat the cleaning steps above or is there anything else that would help (short of new or rebuilt starter)?
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
Points: 2490
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Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 4:59pm |
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That sounds a bit drastic to me. I hope you got ALL the chemicals off after the cleaning. It might work for a while, but I'd have sent it to Steve if I were you.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 8:57pm |
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turning the alternator and water pump should not add much load.. Its the piston rings and bearings that cause load.... your cleaning probably fixed it.... just hope you wiped it all off good... and your good to go.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dale (Stonelick)
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Joined: 13 Jun 2019
Location: Stonelick, Ohio
Points: 157
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Posted: 18 Aug 2019 at 2:23pm |
Would someone explain or send pictures of the oil line connections? I had the old oil line from the Outlet Elbow to the Oil Filter Base, so I have that part of it already installed.
I am confused about the second connection from the Outlet Elbow to the Ignition Drive Housing and to the two female connections on the Governor Oil Tube Tee. It would seem that one 6 inch line would run from the Ignition Drive Housing to the lower tee on the Governor (page 42 of the Parts Illustrations), and a second separate 22 inch line would run from the Outlet Elbow to the higher tee on the Governor. However, page 47 of the Parts Illustrations show this 22 inch line being interrupted by a tee. I don't know what this extra tee connection is for?
Could someone explain or send pictures of this oil line connection?
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Dale (Stonelick)
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Joined: 13 Jun 2019
Location: Stonelick, Ohio
Points: 157
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Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 6:02pm |
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Has anyone any experience with All States Ag Part Persian Orange #1 paint? It is their part #108314 and advertised to be the correct pre-1961 Allis Chalmers paint color. Is it the correct color and how is the quality?
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