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dfwallis 
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023
Location: DFW
Points: 75
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 Posted: 18 Mar 2023 at 9:29pm |
 steve(ill) wrote:
there are basically two different types of AFTERMARKET 3 points you can buy... This one you must remove your drawbar from the snap coupler ( or pin hitch)... and install this in its place ... The two arms are adjustable on width and one is pinned and swings outward. .......... this is made for the snap coupler, but could be MODIFIED to the pin hitch.
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OK Tractor has this one with an option premade for non-snap-coupler (that I missed before). Like I said, didn't like the design of it, but when time comes I might choose the easy out.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 70842
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Posted: 18 Mar 2023 at 9:35pm |
that one eliminates the drawbar... if 90% of your work is with the 3 point, then you can buy an adaptor that gives you the ability to use a drawbar , ball hitch, etc.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023
Location: DFW
Points: 75
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Posted: 19 Mar 2023 at 10:48am |
dfwallis wrote:
steve(ill) wrote:
there are basically two different types of AFTERMARKET 3 points you can buy... This one you must remove your drawbar from the snap coupler ( or pin hitch)... and install this in its place ... The two arms are adjustable on width and one is pinned and swings outward. .......... this is made for the snap coupler, but could be MODIFIED to the pin hitch.
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OK Tractor has this one with an option premade for non-snap-coupler (that I missed before). Like I said, didn't like the design of it, but when time comes I might choose the easy out. |
I'll add that OK Tractor seems to have this one for about half the price of Steiner...
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JimD
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mounds, OK
Points: 2048
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Posted: 21 Mar 2023 at 11:58pm |
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Yes, we are significantly less than steiner on most parts. I was just at the factory a week ago. Ill be happy to answer any additional questions.
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023
Location: DFW
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Posted: 22 Mar 2023 at 10:41am |
JimD wrote:
Yes, we are significantly less than steiner on most parts. I was just at the factory a week ago. Ill be happy to answer any additional questions. |
One of dislikes about the design is that I would prefer that both arms pivot separately. In the snap coupler design, pivot of the fixed arm is relative to the moveable snap coupler tongue. In the non-snap coupler design, it has a pipe welded across the tongue. Unless there is a lot of slop in the size of the hole, there would not be proper pivoting of the "fixed" arm. And I don't think you want a lot of slop in the hole for the pin hitch.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 22 Mar 2023 at 10:58am |
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Most of the time, each lift/draft arm ball would be at the same height. Moldboard plowing the right side is always an inch or more higher. That whole frame pivots in the snap-coupler bell when you want one lift/draft arm ball at a different height that the other lift/draft arm by changing the lift link length. I don't see a problem as long as it is a snap-coupler bell version.
Edited by DrAllis - 22 Mar 2023 at 10:59am
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dfwallis
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Location: DFW
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Posted: 22 Mar 2023 at 11:02am |
DrAllis wrote:
Most of the time, each lift/draft arm ball would be at the same height. Moldboard plowing the right side is always an inch or more higher. That whole frame pivots in the snap-coupler bell when you want one lift/draft arm ball at a different height that the other lift/draft arm by changing the lift link length. I don't see a problem as long as it is a snap-coupler bell version.
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Yes, but this would be the non-snap coupler version with a weld on mod which would prevent left to right swing as well as rotational swing.
Edited by dfwallis - 22 Mar 2023 at 1:07pm
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dfwallis
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Posted: 22 Mar 2023 at 1:11pm |
dfwallis wrote:
DrAllis wrote:
Most of the time, each lift/draft arm ball would be at the same height. Moldboard plowing the right side is always an inch or more higher. That whole frame pivots in the snap-coupler bell when you want one lift/draft arm ball at a different height that the other lift/draft arm by changing the lift link length. I don't see a problem as long as it is a snap-coupler bell version.
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Yes, but this would be the non-snap coupler version with a weld on mod which would prevent left to right swing as well as rotational swing.
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I'm up against my spending limit for this year, but when I do this, provided I can devise a suitable drawbar mount modification (keeping the existing 1952 drawbar as is if possible), I'm leaning towards a drawbar mount version for the WD45, perhaps without the sway block (my drawbar mod might suffice for sway block). I tried sourcing the individual parts (arms, drawbar mount), but that cost was way higher than getting the equivalent kit and throwing away unneeded parts :(
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 22 Mar 2023 at 1:13pm |
I see your point Gary... A Pin thru a steel bushing would not appear to have much "movement".. unless your "PIN HOLE" brackets are egg shaped for L-R swing.... Maybe Jim can explain more as he sells them.. Personally i would be temped to use the snap coupler version and make a "trailer hitch" type fitting on my crossbar under the tractor, then PIN thru the coupler loop.. That would give you movement L-R and Up- Down... but would take a little modification to your present hitch bar.
possible hitch design for snap coupler loop.
Edited by steve(ill) - 22 Mar 2023 at 1:23pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dfwallis
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Posted: 22 Mar 2023 at 1:25pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
I see your point Gary... A Pin thru a steel bushing would not appear to have much "movement".. unless your "PIN HOLE" brackets are egg shaped for L-R swing.... Maybe Jim can explain more as he sells them.. Personally i would be temped to use the snap coupler version and make a "trailer hitch" type fitting on my crossbar under the tractor, then PIN thru the coupler loop.. That would give you movement L-R and Up- Down... but would take a little modification to your present hitch bar.
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Yes. A slightly better design might be an add-on bracket that sandwiches the snap coupler tongue (top bracket and bottom bracket, with perhaps loose fitting bolts, one right in the inside circular bend of the tongue, one at the rear. Then the pin sleeve would be welded onto either bracket. That would preserve the integrity of the tongue as well. Being loose fitting, it could give you enough range of motion at least side to side.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 22 Mar 2023 at 1:29pm |
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yea... a added a drawing above that might be even easier.. use the BAR on the tractor to help limit movement fore- aft.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Mar 2023 at 8:27pm |
De-brushed...baby steps. Several days soaking in atf, still locked tite.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 26 Mar 2023 at 9:04pm |
i dont know how your trying to ROTATE the motor ( bar/ crank).... but one good method is to jack on of the rear tires 2 inches off the ground and block under the drawbar or axle housing... put the transmission in gear, then try to ROCK the tire back and forth every couple days ( with the cylinders filled full of penetrant).
make sure when in Neutral that the tire will move.. That tells you the transmission is not locked up also..
Edited by steve(ill) - 26 Mar 2023 at 9:05pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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