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AC170 gas carb blowup!!

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BigGuy1000 View Drop Down
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Joined: 06 Dec 2013
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BigGuy1000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: AC170 gas carb blowup!!
    Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 11:20am
I have an AC 170 gas father bought new, with Pertronix EI added 12+ years ago and the original 1 1/2 ohm coil.
Grinding shelled corn for cow feed(NH353) when the engine misfired, caught again, ran Ok for a few seconds, then misfired again!  Had a strange loud puffing sound instead of normal running.  (Grinder inertia, keeps engine turning long time).  Ran OK for minutes, then misfired again, this time for longer!  Had to shut off grain flow into grinder as this time slowed down to quite slow PTO speed and again with that strange puffing sound, and then stopped.  Examined the tractor and saw that the carburetor inlet hose had blown up REAL BIG like a balloon! and the dust cup on the dry filter in front of the radiator had popped off!!! Towed the tractor away and put WD on the grinder to finish grinding.  Tractor started later when cool, drove over to Jack the friendly neighbor mechanic, who said "Bad exhaust gasket, I heard it coming down the road!!" Carburetor was dripping gas also, so ordered manifold gaskets and Permetex RED for the manifold.  Manifold did not need machine shop work to seal up to the block.  But Jack had a difficult time getting the carb to stop leaking, eventually saw that the float was damaged(see picture, top of left float). So after 2 months, I thought it was fixed! Big surprise, put it on the grinder again, and soon it began missing just as before, stopped before more damage was done, put WD on again.  More guessing and troubleshooting, eventually got smart, put a voltmeter on the junction of the ignition resistor and the coil, should be 6 volts(engine stopped, key on).  Wiggled wires and terminals, made the voltage there jump up and down to 3 volts!  So the resistor is bad, see below.  Ordered a new 1 1/2 ohm resistor labeled as such on webpage(but not on the resistor), measured it before install, it is 3 ohms!!!  Called seller B*******, got him to check his stock, he said "I will refund, do not send back". He did refund, but I sent back anyway! So I went looking for a better quality resistor, found this OHMITE from Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/F40J1R5E?qs=00dioisqAT%2F9BXfa7b7AWQ%3D%3D
Ordered the 40 watt size(larger than needed) but I wanted to have it run cool!  Installed, soldered the wires to the resistor(no loose and wiggly Faston terminals) See picture. 
Has run about 6 weeks now, 5 loads of feed grinding, works perfectly!!!
Those resistors can be found on Ebay, at auto parts stores, etc. but are very poor quality and not usually labeled with an ohms value.  The wire winding inside is not sealed, is made of iron and will corrode with condensation and over time. The terminals are crimped on and will loosen as they will wiggle with vibration.  See picture, the ceramic mandrel inside the resistor on which the iron wire is wound is cracked!
This whole episode took about 6 months to unwind,  but glad to get running again!! I am assuming that this carburetor explosion was caused by leakage from manifold gaskets.  Has anyone else seen similar???

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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 12:31pm
original coil was 1.5 ohms ........... lots of guys are using a NEW coil with a 3 OHM inside resistor, to eliminate the external resistor.. As long as you have GOOD parts, it works either way..

some of these problems are hard to find... GOOD JOB !
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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BigGuy1000 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BigGuy1000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 5:40pm
I know that one could use a new 3 ohm coil, but you have to change wiring, and I wished to disturb the old brittle wires as little as possible, and also did not want to buy a new coil!

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captaindana View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captaindana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 5:42pm
Splendid Job!!
Blue Skies and Tail Winds
                          Dana
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 6:02pm
With my recent experience working on an 8N Ford that had set for a couple 3 years, that had valves sticking, I would have probably gone down a complete different rabbit hole with the symptoms of your tractor.
 An intake valve sticking open, could cause the popping and huffing, and damage the float too.
 As far as inline resistors, I don't like the idea of them period. Just something else to go wrong that you really don't need in my opinion.
 I don't have EI on my WC, that is still 6 volts, but I was having a hard time getting it started. It seemed to run fine, but could be a PITA to get started.
I ended up checking the resistance of the coil I had on it, and it was 2.3 ohms(marked as 6 volt, Pffftttt). I ordered a Pertonix flame thrower 1.5 ohm coil and it's started GREAT ever since.
 For standard points set up, the only way to go, in my opinion, is Standard Ignition parts. Any of the off the shelf stuff is Chinesium garbage now days, and can't be trusted to work the first time, let alone lasting for several years like quality parts will.
  Maybe your miss fire was as much to blame for the damaged float, as any manifold leak?
 By appearance, your new resistor is of much better quality that the old style open winding set up.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 06 Dec 2022 at 6:06pm
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2022 at 7:05pm
If your wiring is very brittle and beat, that could be some of your problem. When it comes to old wiring, it can cause a multitude of problems. Low voltage in the ignition circuit is sure to be problems. The same with that resistor. It's working great right now, but you'll be back there again. You're better off doing a little rewiring and getting rid of the old brittle wires, install a internal resisted coil so Mother Nature can't mess with it. Eliminates a lot of issues. You can't believe how many of our customer's replace the wiring system on their Tractors, and the Tractor never ran like that since they owned it. Some said to me it was like putting a new engine in it! .... HTH
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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WF owner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2022 at 6:24am
Don't count out spark plug wires as being part of the problem. 

I remember starting Dad's WD45 in the dark when I was a teenager. We were amazed how many sparks were jumping around. 

A new set of plug wires made a huge difference.
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2022 at 4:06pm
IMO, your intake/filter and carb damage was probably a resut of an ignition event occurring with intake valve open, thus, turning the entire intake into a pipe-bomb.

The failing resistor, old wiring, etc., probably the root cause.... I'm with Charlie and Steve on this one... and because it was firing at times it shouldn't, I would expect that the plugs and wires probably took a bit of a beating.

As Noel says... "Most carbeuration problems can be traced to the Ignition system"...  Wink

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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