7G driving me nuts
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=90037
Printed Date: 06 Jun 2024 at 5:33pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7G driving me nuts
Posted By: DMiller
Subject: 7G driving me nuts
Date Posted: 24 May 2014 at 2:36pm
Been all over this monster since dropping in the replacement transmission, cannot get the hydraulic pump for the transmission to pull and hold prime, oil level is well above the suction points just cannot locate the infiltrating air.
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Replies:
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 24 May 2014 at 10:27pm
I would take a line off at pump, and plug intake line at tank. Blow air back towards sump. Maybe then you can find the suction leak, provided the pump is good.Could the pump be dry and need oiling up to hold prime? HTH Tracy Martin
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 25 May 2014 at 7:48am
I am suspecting one of the new suction hoses, still have the old ones and will reinstall them one at a time first, still requires full drain and refill, gets old at 31 gallons.
One hose couldn't get fittings I wanted, had to deal with straight ends and I am leaning to that being in a bind installed and keeping the end from seating or maybe being cracked from the stress, will be my own fault if is.
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Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2014 at 9:15am
Dave - any progress on the 7G? Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2014 at 7:59pm
Just received the hydraulic pump head piece and seal set, won't have a day off until the 24th then back to it. Been hard at the new building, should have photo of it tomorrow. To expand, when I took the old pump off it had a crack in the head mount at one ear, when I went to replace it with the donor unit it was also cracked same place so I tried to reuse the old pump and it still wouldn't draw suction plus the mount ear fully failed, at that point parts got ordered and I stepped back for the time.
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Posted By: HD6 Merv
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2014 at 1:54am
Just a 10c idea Dave. Id leave inlet pipe off at the suction end. fit a extension pipe to it to a hight that's higher than the pump; fill with oil. gravity will allow it to bleed up to the pump inlet. leave pump outlet disconnected. wind motor over on starter only till oil comes out of pump. connect outlet pipe. wind over some more. then reconnect inlet, and fill trans with oil. hopefully this will prime pump enough so that will suck properly when you start engine. Chin up mate; you,ve got a lot of mates out here in the internet world who admire you for your perserverence. Cheers from the kiwis
------------- tits tyres and tracks
they all cost you money
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2014 at 4:14pm
Beast is ALIVE! Got the pump head replaced, installed the pump and three new lines this morning AFTER I got off a twelve hour owl shift. Replaced the suction line from the main strainer and the line AGAIN from the scavenge strainer, packed the donor pump with the new head flange with grease and as soon as started had trans pressure.
Honestly is the first time it has ever showed high on the gauge bands, trans is smooth with all speeds forward and reverse, seems more responsive as to light turns now with good flows to everything. Still have to button up the tins and covers, get all back together and put the monster back into a work element but when tried out cold as sits will either slip tracks or push the bucket into soil both high and low forward.
![](uploads/916/DSC03333.JPG)
Still have a few gauge lines to change out in here, the pump stands out now with the new head on it, got the parts thru motion industries in Alabama. http://www.MotionIndustries.com.
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Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2014 at 9:29pm
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2014 at 6:25am
Thanks Andrew, old machine put a crimp in my schedules but better now!
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Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2014 at 8:19am
Way to go Dave...post some pics once it's all back together! Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2014 at 9:03am
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2014 at 5:38pm
Ended up today working on the rest on my neglected projects, picked up the electrical equipment and wire to feed the new shop, renting chain trencher tomorrow then I can finish out the small stuff on my Fat Allis.
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Posted By: doctorcorey
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2014 at 8:23pm
I haven't been on here for a year or so; read this thread and glad you got it primed. I use white lithium a Assembly grease to pack the pump and they prime fast(auto mechanic tip). Do you think one of your hoses was pourous? Btw, I still need the linkAge parts. I'm down at my ranch most every weekend through the fall. Also need a set of bucket pins with grease zerts(drilled).
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2014 at 8:29pm
I still have the linkages, been considering contacting you over the months but things kinda got out of hand. I was suspecting two hose fittings actually, the new style Gates hose fittings use a extremely tall nut assembly, they would bottom on the hex below the threads on the pump fittings and allow air in but would hold enough to not leak from the slight amount of oil head pressure in the final case. Grease pack was tried from moment one with the pump install, would pull prime long enough to show pressure then drop to zero again, due to fittings. Ended up going to tractor store in town, they made up Weatherhead fittings/hose for me.
Can't do any good on the pins although I can get the measurements and such from the two spares I kept from the donor, used the other two to replace two piece togethers on my runner.
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2014 at 8:34pm
![](uploads/916/DSC03339.JPG)
Sitting awaiting time to spread what we hauled from the bottom of the hill. This is for the new home site.
![](uploads/916/GetAttachment1.jpg)
At the original pile a few days prior.
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Posted By: ricky7
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2020 at 12:41am
hey I have a7g I cannot get the pump to keep up the trans I do not know if it is sucking air or pump on trans flywheel teeth did you buy parts for this pump my number is 8282457108 ricky if you would help I would be thankful this thing is driving me nuts to
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2020 at 6:52am
The pumps are finnicky they do not run off the flywheel but the converter drive plate accessed thru the four bolt plate atop the Converter. The splines on these wear and can appear as OK but be stripped enough to not function. As well ANY air entrainment and they will fail to pump forward. E&E Hydraulics of Union MO got me a replacement pump, shaft is NLA, Couplers are NLA. It is a Eaton base pump, can replace that with the same basic pump and change out the spline shaft and couplings just have to get them from a regular Hyd Shop and cut to fit. The most common are 9 and 13 spline systems, check locally for a Hyd Shop that will replace your pump shaft and then build the drive mechanism shafting.
I was lucky as had the second unit here for parts. Have used up all my own spares where this is how will have to approach the next repair.
To get the shaft out, pull the four bolt cover, pull the pump two bolt mounting. Then remove the adaptor head on the converter for the two bolt pump mount and CAREFULLY remove the shaft, do not drop it. Are three Bolts holding drive plate to the gearing, carefully remove those three bolts thru that access hole on the converter and remove the plate. Had to have a TIG welder weld a piece of good spline coupler into a Lathe cut drive flange to get ine usable. At this point ANY spline can be adapted.
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Posted By: ricky7
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2020 at 10:15am
thanks so much this thing was driving me crazy. I will be glad to send you some money for taking the time to tell me this.my 7g will drive about a hour till the hydraulic fluid gets hot and stop I tried to find a pump and have not been able to find one maybe I can now
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2020 at 1:43pm
Will dig thru my receipts and see if can find p/n
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Posted By: ricky7
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2020 at 8:55am
I hate to bother you but I need to know this bad for sure.their are two suction pumps on the converter the bottoms are suction and the one line from the bottom of the trans goes to the front pump toward the engine and over to the far left foot side next to the frame steering housing the second comes from below our left foot seating if you are on the seat off the suction screen to the back pump over to the power range on the transmission is this right just to make sure
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2020 at 2:15pm
Yes Two suctions.
![](uploads/916/DSC02761.JPG)
Forward suction draws off Trans sump strainer feeds that oil to the Left Clutch Housing side where actually feeds the Common Screen suction for the Steering Pump and the aft section of trans pump which then feeds the Trans filter to the Shift selector. Either strainer can be loaded and cause issues, Oil level Running needs to be AT or just ABOVE the indicated Full Mark when hot. Front section is No Pressure just scavenge, rear does the work.
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Posted By: ricky7
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 11:05pm
thanks so much that was super helpful
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Posted By: ricky7
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 11:08pm
but what is the aft stand for I know it is simple probably
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2020 at 6:46am
Rear or outer most pump section, as in Aft on a Boat.
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