190 PTO question
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=54188
Printed Date: 18 May 2025 at 3:46pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 190 PTO question
Posted By: bill(IL)
Subject: 190 PTO question
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2012 at 12:55pm
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I rescently bought a 190. The previous owner split the tractor to replace a seal or gasket. The PTO worked fine before the split but now it works sometimes. It is a manually engaged PTO. I suspect the coupling and fork are not together correctly. Is it possible to look through the hole by the power director and see if that is the problem and possibly fix it without splitting it? Any thoughts or better ideas. Thanks Bill
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Replies:
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2012 at 3:01pm
Bill - I assume it's an older 190 with a single speed 540 PTO if it's manual disconnect only?
Does the issue you have deal with it's hard to engage the manual PTO at times or it wants to jump back out after it seems like it is engaged?
Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Posted By: bill(IL)
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2012 at 3:22pm
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It seems to be engaged but isn't. thanks Bill
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Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2012 at 3:34pm
It may be similar to the manual PTO problems on my 180. Mine was a combination of the manual engagement arm behind the battery box (left side) was bent not allowing full engagement. This can be fixed from the outside. Also, the splines on the rear PTO shaft had burrs not allowing full engagement in the sliding splined coupler inside the torque tube. To fix that drain both the torque tube & transmission then remove rear the rear PTO shaft. Use a flat file or better yet a dremel with a small grinding stone to remove all the burrs on the splines. They may be rounded on the end but that shaft is still good as long as you get rid of all the burrs. Reinstall the shaft and test the engagement in all positions (rotate the shaft one spline at time) before going to the trouble of putting all the fluid back in. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Posted By: bill(IL)
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 9:18pm
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Thanks skyhighbaloon for the reply. I think I have full range of motion on the linkage. I can feel the detents when I shift but doesn't always engage. I think the fork insert may not be in the coupling gruve. I don't know if the oil was drained and the side cover by the power directer was removed a person possibly with a mirror could see the pto shaft and coupling? Thanks Bill
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Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 9:42pm
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I f you drain the trans fluid and pull the cover off the bottom under the trans you can see whats going on in there. I replaced the coupler and pto shaft on my 200 this way. Marty in MI just parted out a 200 on ebay and had a good pto shaft ....
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Posted By: bill(IL)
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2012 at 8:34pm
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AaronH thanks for the reply. I think you are refering to tht hydrolic sump cover. I'll pull it off and look inside. Thanks again Bill
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Posted By: vernT
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 9:31am
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Bill, any update on the 190 pto issue. We are having a similar issue with an older 190 single speed 540 pto with manual engagement. it seems engaged but pops out right away. Is it possible to replace the engagement coupler by pulling off the side plate that has the power director valve? We ran a bush hog for a few months with no problem then this happens.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 10:22am
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The splined front end of the rear output shaft need to be dressed/cleaned up with a small grinder. The splines are burred and probably not fully engaging. Drain all the oil. Remove three bolts on the PTO shield. Pull hard on the PTO shaft and it will come out 3 1/2 feet long. Repaired the burred splines and reassemble.
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Posted By: vernT
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 10:29am
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Thanks DrAllis. We will have a go at the deburring. So you think it's most likely that and not the coupler or shift mechanism?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 10:35am
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I think I have deburred a half-dozen or so in the last 45 yrs. I have yet to replace a coupler. Do what you want.
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Posted By: vernT
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 10:59am
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DrAllis,Thanks so much for the tip. We certainly will do the deburring first. We have owned the 180 since 1978 and 190 since about 1995 and they were passed to us from Dad this year. We hope to keep them functional and use them for a while yet with the mower.
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Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 5:51pm
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Once had a 180 doing the simular thing- there was an ear broke off the coupler that engauges the pto shafts it has a detent on each side replaced that and good to go
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 8:45pm
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The coupler is so hard you will never damage it. Have never replaced a coupler. MACK
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Posted By: vernT
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 8:58pm
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I assume the way to open up the 190 to look at the PTO coupler and replace if needed is through the plate where the power director valve is. And it is not necessary to split the tractor. Thanks for all of the input everyone. We like these old Allis' but around us there is almost nobody left that knows them so we are kind of on our own at times.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2021 at 6:30am
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Doug G is talking about the shifter lever stop ear, not the coupler.
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