Getting the All Crops ready for wheat
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51804
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 9:25am
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Topic: Getting the All Crops ready for wheat
Posted By: Dave in il
Subject: Getting the All Crops ready for wheat
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2012 at 9:38pm
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The combines are outside. Tomorrow I'll hook up the 72 and bring it into the shop and see what it will take to replace the concave bottom with the patch sheet I got from Yaz All Crop. I'll see if I can get the bad tire on the 90 replaced, then Sunday I'll hook up the 90 and see if everything turns and try running it with the tractor if it does.  I don't think I'm going to get a wheat screen for the 90 before the wheat is ready so IF everything works on it we'll try it without one, otherwise we'll try it in soybeans this fall because we have a finish screen for those.
 The 72 is serial # 949 (A Sharpee does a nice job of highlighting the numbers) I think it's a 1960.
 The 90 is serial # 4756 I'm not sure what year it is. I'll post more pictures as I go. ------------- AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company |
Replies:
Posted By: TomYaz
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2012 at 10:24pm
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good Luck! ------------- If its not an All-Crop, it all crap! |
Posted By: Rfdeere
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2012 at 12:32am
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Your 90 is a 1959. Your correct on the 72 year. ------------- Randy Freshour,Member Indiana AC Partners, http://www.rumelyallis.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.rumelyallis.com |
Posted By: Dave in il
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2012 at 9:11pm
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Well Saturday didn't work out quite the way it was planned so today we got the 72 in and started on it after lunch. Forgot my camera so the pictures are from the cell phone.
 The combine got the honor of being the first project in the nearly complete new shop.
 The concave floor is seriously rusted out, this replacement is from Tom Yaz.
 I can't believe the duct tape didn't hold. LOL!
 So we sarted by trying to loosen the drive belt but the ratchet belt tightener was frozen solid, so we took it off. That was quite a job for a couple fat guys under the combine.
 Can anyone tell me, does the drive shieve have to come off the cylinder? It looks like it might all slide out in one piece but that seems like it would be too easy.
 It looks like this will have to come off to get to the concave after the cylinder is off.
It was pretty hot today so by 5:00 we called quits.
We went out and looked over the 90, it looks to be in pretty good shape. The plan is to replace the bad tire, hook it up to a tractor, grease the 100 or so zerks, lube the chains and and try turning it by hand. Thats what we did with the 72. If everything works by hand the next step is to put the pto in gear and see how it runs at idle.
We let the 72 run at idle for about a 1/2 hour so the belts warmed up and and got flexible again after setting for many years, we also reoiled the chains as it was running. Then we slowly increased the throttle. Hopefully the same thing will work as well with the 90.
Anybody who's changed cylinder bars on an All Crop chime in with suggestions please.
I'll keep you posted. ------------- AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company |
Posted By: Dave in il
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2012 at 9:18pm
What reference source do you have?
Thanks,
Dave
------------- AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company |
Rfdeere wrote:Posted By: Rfdeere
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2012 at 9:24pm
Norm Swinford's Farm Equipment book. ------------- Randy Freshour,Member Indiana AC Partners, http://www.rumelyallis.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.rumelyallis.com |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2012 at 9:25pm
| We got inside to change bars .Put something to lay on straw rack . WE just had open end wrenches back then ,with power tools it would be a lot easier. Take one off and put one back ,one at a time . PS I have put on a few pounds since i have been in one ! |
Posted By: Curt-Indiana
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 5:39am
| We did five 72 rebuilds in our shop this winter. You will have to pull the cyl out the end where you show the picture of the end cover. take off the top shield you show in the next pic. We always pull the head off and the beater out of way so we can work. Rebuild everything as you can get to everything. We make our own concaves and many of the parts that we use. If you want you can PM me and i will give you my number and you can call me. I would be glad to answer any questions. |
Posted By: Brian F(IL)
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 7:31am
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Dave,
I may get drafted to use my WD-45 to pull an All-Crop in a few weeks. For raising and lowering the header, how do you have your hydraulic pump set on the tractor? For the "Hold" position? Or, does it even matter?
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 8:09am
| Hold position Brian because you are carrying head with cylinder.Dad used to turn the screw in some on the front side to slow down lift. Maybe that was more important cutting beans. Too long ago. |
Posted By: Dave in il
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2012 at 10:12pm
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Curt, thanks you might be getting a call. So if we take the shieve adjusting arm off will the cylider come out with the shieve on the shaft? It will probably be the weekend before we get back to it.
Brian, I used the D17 to run the combine, the WD was just handy to bring it in the shop.
------------- AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company |