Amateur Mechanic Question WD45
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51493
Printed Date: 25 Aug 2025 at 6:22am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Amateur Mechanic Question WD45
Posted By: Rod Yowell
Subject: Amateur Mechanic Question WD45
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 9:04am
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I am attempting to fix the pto intermediate gear on my wd45. I know that I have to split this tractor to do this. The repair manual I downloaded talks about it. It says to split the tractor at the torque tube & the engine clutch housing. Then after the split, remove the torque tube from the transmission housing to replace the intermediate gear. It says I must remove the transmission clutch located in the torque tube before I can replace the gear. My Question is this. Do I need to remove this transmission clutch before attempting the split? Or will the gear shaft that that connects to the engine clutch pull free when I try to pull the torque tube free from the engine clutch housing? Thanks for any help you can give.
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Replies:
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 9:29am
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Rod - when you split the tractor behind the engine at the engine/foot clutch, those two will separate by pulling them apart as the shaft connecting to the clutch is splined and just slides out. Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: Rod Yowell
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 9:37am
| Thanks Mike. I was hoping to keep moving on this split today. Now I can wait to remove the clutch until I make the split. |
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 1:21pm
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The tranny clutch will stay with the engine as it's bolted to the flywheel. I can't imagine why you'd need to remove it at all. Otherwise, Mike has it right. If you leave the clutch bolted together, you won't need to realign the clutch plates when you put the engine back in. AaronSEIA
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Posted By: Rod Yowell
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 1:31pm
| Thanks for the information Aaron. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 1:32pm
| You can replace the intermediate gear with out splitting. Don't remember all the details but you have to remove the lock and slide the shaft out of gear.It can be done as I learned from Dad and later did one myself. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 6:27pm
| I agree with Steve -- never done it but had it explained to me . |
Posted By: Rod Yowell
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 6:38pm
Could you explain it to me?
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B26240 wrote:Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 6:50pm
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http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/uploads/583/Intermediate_shaft_in_hydraulic_reservoir.JPG" rel="nofollow - uploads/583/Intermediate_shaft_in_hydraulic_reservoir.JPG
This is a pic of the intermediate shaft from inside the hydraulic oil reservoir. It usually comes out easily if it has recently been bathed in oil. However, getting the intermediate gear back in place requires the use of any one of several tricks (thread, glue, dental floss, etc.) to hold the gear, bearings & washer in place.
The service manual procedure requires standing the torque housing on end in order to get a vertical drop of the intermediate gear & shaft. A lot of work which is not necessary.
If it's not too late, send me a note with your e-mail address and I can send to you a procedure that I wrote out for a fellow several years ago.
stu
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Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 7:00pm
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Rod, saw that you were looking for a procedure while I was trying to upload a pic.
I found your e-mail address. Give it a check.
stu
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Posted By: ctbowles58
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 8:56pm
------------- 190XT 2WD45 WF D15 D14 CA BIG10 302 & 303 bailers 77G rake 80R mower 6 plows and alot more |
Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2012 at 9:47pm
I don't want to nit pick, but when a shop manual refers to the "transmission clutch", they generally are referring to the hand clutch as it stops power to the transmission. The foot clutch is generally the "engine clutch". I could see that you guys were starting to talk about the hand clutch and foot clutch by the same name and I think some misunderstanding was starting1 |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2012 at 6:45am
| Rod -- with pto housing removed and hyd pump off the lock bolt can be removed from bottom then shaft slid forward into hyd. pump area. to get back together it's best to have two people, one holding gear- and two washers in place from bottom and second person sliding shaft into place working from pump opening. There are two roller bearings inside intermediate gear but they will stay in place if gear is held level. |
Posted By: Rod Yowell
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2012 at 8:22pm
Stu, Steve and all you other guys that said the intermediate gear could be done without splitting the tractor or even removing the clutch are absolutely right! I just finished doing it just about an hour ago. Now I won't say it was easy, as a matter of fact have several tries I had given up and started to remove all the bolt necessary to do the split. I hadn't checked my e-mail from you Stu and gotten your excellent written out procedure that outlines step by step the entire method. I was just 'winging it' because no one seemed to remember how they or their dad had done it. Just before I removed the last 4 bolts or so to do the split, my best friend Jeff drove up to see my lasted 'toy' and wanted to talk about it and try 'one more time'. I can't believe that we actually did it! It's done. We did have one heck of a time getting the 'new' gear back in though. We couldn't figure out how to hold that flat sided spacer washer in while sliding the shaft back in place. We ended up using a small amount of lub grease to stick it to the housing behind the gear. Jeff said that when the transmission and PTO heated up, this small amount of grease will melt and mix with the hydraulic fluid without a problem. Is He right? Do I need to be concerned about this small amount of grease in the Torque Tube housing? Once again, Thank all of you gentlemen for all of your help. I could never have imagined that so many people could be that willing to help such a novice like me.
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Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2012 at 8:24pm
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Rod - using the grease is perfect. No issues with a bit of that mixing with the hydraulic fluid. Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: Rod Yowell
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2012 at 8:32pm
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Thanks Mike, That is a load off my mind. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 12:13am
| Glad you got it. Forgot that was done through hyd pump hole but didn't have a tractor in front of me to look at. Told ya it could be done! LOL |
Posted By: Rod Yowell
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2012 at 5:08am
| Steve you were the first one to tell me it could be done. You got me working on it. Thanks for your help friend. it was a great , thanks a lot. |