wd trouble
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50016
Printed Date: 23 Aug 2025 at 5:32am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: wd trouble
Posted By: TREVMAN
Subject: wd trouble
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 6:36pm
Well, I got my formerly seized wd runnng today, GREAT! No oil pressure, BAD! Pulled the pan off and the oil pump drive gear is history...So I need a cam, bearings and advice on how to change it. Can I do it with the engine still in the tractor, pull the rad etc.? Or does the engine have to come out? Thanks in advance, I was up, now, down, feeling pretty defeated, Trev. 
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Replies:
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 6:54pm
| Take engine out and do a complete rebuild in other words fix it right once . Just my opinion. |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 7:22pm
| I understand what you are saying, and, in a more perfect world thats exactly what I would do...But, I dont have the cash to do it right, so Im looking for a cam and advice on how to change it out, thanks, Trev. |
Posted By: Duey (IA)
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 8:32pm
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You need to remove the head, push rods, rad, etc. and pull the engine. Install short bolts with big washers to hold cylinders in place. Turn engine up-side-down cross-wise on frame rails. (keeps cam followers in place). Remove front timing gear cover. Pull cam out. At this point I would suggest replacing cam bearings as they determine oil pressure. Oil holes must align with holes in block when installing. Align timing marks on gears when cam is installed. Reassemble timing gear cover, oil pump, pan, etc. Reinstall engine, head etc. ------------- Fight Organized Crime, Do not re-elect them! |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 10:23pm
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Remove valve cover, rockers, and push rods. Use wooden dowls and push into lifters, (then get your wife's laundry bag and use her cloth pins) to hold the lifters up while you change the cam. MACK |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 10:37pm
| Thanks Mack, what size dowels, same size as pushrods? Im assuming I roll to TDC which should align gear marks. Ill have to pull the rad, new valve cover, front cover gasket and pan gasket. Can I install cam bearings at this point? Ive done this on a 505 cummins, very similiar method? Thanks, Trev. (My wife isnt gonna be happy about her clothes pins...) |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 7:53am
| The engine wiil need to come out. The lifters will not stay in place with the engine upright. When I removed the cam in My CA. I just took the engine out and removed the rockers and push rods turned it upside down on the engine stand and pulled the cam. Gravity held the cam followers out of the way. Replaced the drive pin in the Cam with a roll pin and put it back together. I also replaced the oil pump pickup when it was upside down. Its almost imposable to get the pan back on under the tractor. Very easy when itys on the stand. In 4 hours I had it back in the tractor and running again. When we pulled the engine in my dads WD many years ago We torched a notch out of the top right side frame rail so the engie would llift out between the frame rails without all the twisting and leaning to get it past the rail. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 9:22am
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Take Mack's method. It works good. That's what we did in Ag/Diesel Mechanics in vo-tech and at the Allis dealer I worked at. Do not have to remove engine. Check your rod and main bearings for the heck of it first. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 1:09pm
| Thanks Lonn. I will change the bearings while Im in there, and look for a new oil pump. I talked to a couple experienced Canadians today (in their 80s) and they recomended the same method as You and Mack. I have no reason to think it wont work. Both these gentlemen offered to assist, but their health doesnt allow...What am I gonna do after these mechanics by neccessity are gone? These men have a lot of experience using low tech tools in less than desirable conditions. These guys are national treasures as far as Im concerned...Trev. |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 2:27pm
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I am confused, how exactly do you plan to replace the rear cam bearing without removing the flywheel, i.e taking the engine the rest of the way out? Can you pull the bearing out, rather than drive it out the back of the engine through the soft plug hole? ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 6:34pm
| I havent done this before so the answer is, I dont know. It is quite possible I cant change the cam bearings without taking the engine out. If I cant Ill change the rod and mains, replace with a used cam, and carry on from there. I was gonna use this tractor to seed 40 acres in the next couple of weeks when the weather dries up here,thats not going to happen now so Im bummed. I bought a three bottom Quick Hitch Allis plow to break the ground, but I guess Ill have to disc and cultivate to get it ready to seed... Ill borrow a tractor to do what I need to do and after seeding get the WD in my garage and get the engine sorted out. Trev. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 11:11pm
| Trev I don't know dowel size but it has to be bigger than pushrod to "jam" in lifter. |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 11:34pm
| Thanks Steve. Gonna give it try any how, I was talking to some of my hotrodder/track buddies today at an engine shop and they have done the same method. Said to use same size as pushrods and give the dowel a "tap" to seat it in the lifter and then carefully pull up and clap. We shall see in a couple of weeks...It was a thrill to get the tractor running, did a comp test after it was warm and got 100psi across so thats o.k. I guess. Oh well, it will be a lot better when Im done, Trev. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 11:46pm
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That might be.Did the same when put 170 cam in my 45 30yrs ago but don't remember details.Think those dowels are still in the (dead) fridge up at dad's shop. One thing to note...if you use a D17 or newer cam,they have a differet "cut" on the drive and driven oil pump gears. Can't mix em.That may have started with the full flow systems. Not sure on that. Just double check.
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Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 05 May 2012 at 10:18am
| Thanks Steve for the advice. Is a 45 cam the same as a WD? I think I found a cam for a WD but I would like to know if the 45 cam is the same, opens up some options. Thanks again. Trev. |
Posted By: JimIA
Date Posted: 05 May 2012 at 10:49am
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You cannot install the cam bearings with the engine in the tractor, you have to push the rear bearing out the back and you have to have the crank out to line up the holes when reinstalling the bearings. I know what its like to be short of funding but like B26240 said, fix it right the first time. If you dont have have the money, save it up, work at it slowly. Believe me you will be money and time ahead. Ive been there, it didnt work. Jim |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 05 May 2012 at 11:07am
| Thanks for the advice Jim, I appreciate it, we shall see. Im still upset so once the smoke clears outta my brain Ill hatch a reasonable plan...Trev. |