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oil bath air breather

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49955
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 6:16am
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Topic: oil bath air breather
Posted By: Redwood
Subject: oil bath air breather
Date Posted: 02 May 2012 at 11:15am

has anyone disassembled one of these?  is the internal tube spot welded at the top before the top piece (dome) is welded on the outer casing?

After the time that a pasted the is rust on the inside as well as the black primer that is on the metal has lots of bare spots to allow for additional damage. Before a cut the top off to disassemble this is there an easier way? 

Or is the internal tube crimped to (as in permanently attached to) the exterior tube?




Replies:
Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 02 May 2012 at 10:02pm
I'm guessing not many have done this.  After reexamining it tonight the thinner sheet metal that forms the bottom looks crimped and possibly welded. Too much damage if I try to take it apart.  Looks like I might have to find someone with a dunk tank to remove the rust and dunk prime it.  Worse come to worse I can always replace it if it rusts from the inside out.  Sure would like to stop the rusting though.


Posted By: JeffMOnt
Date Posted: 02 May 2012 at 10:06pm
Here is a post from a few weeks ago that should help you.

http://allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48886&KW=oil+bath&title=wd45-oil-bath-air-cleaner-cleaning" rel="nofollow - http://allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48886&KW=oil+bath&title=wd45-oil-bath-air-cleaner-cleaning



Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 02 May 2012 at 10:16pm
Thanks Jeff
I took a look.. that post seem a little confusing.   I do have the screens out, and the mesh, but in my case three tabs hold it in place that are easy to bend back to remove the screen and mesh (so that is out).  as for seperating the inner tube from the out tube there could be spot welds.   I'll check a little closer.
 
Edit(shouldn't post after a certain time...that wasn't clear to me when I read it back this morning, hope it is more clear now)
 


Posted By: Mike(NC)
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 5:59am
Redwood,  I took one apart from a TO30 Ferguson that I think was made almost the same.  I found 3 or 4 spot welds where the cup slid over.  I drilled these out and took the plate off and all the packing out.  I cleaned the tube out with kerosene on an old towel.  Make sure you mark the holes where plate goes.  It makes it easier to line up when you put it back on. I then used coarse steel wool as the filter element  .  I then put the plate back on and melted solder in the drill holes. I then melted it again enough to  squeeze the solder flat with pliers so the cap would slip over it.  You can also buy the packing that goes in it.  I think I Took the one from my "B" apart also.  But That was before last week.  I'll ask the wife what day this is when she gets out of bed in a little while.      

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Thank God for another day. Thank Him for being alive and all my many blessings.


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 7:43am
Thanks for the reply Mike
 
I did take another look. there is a seem around the bottom.  If that is welded its on the inside and I can't see it for the inner tube. at the bottom of the tube the inner tub only touches in three locations.  There is one dap, in one spot that could be a spot weld, but from where that is it does not look like it could be holding the inner piece to the out piece. there is also a spring wire between the two pieces.
I'll try to get a shim in the piece to see it I can locate the spot welds.
 
Good luck on figuring out the day...I'd be nervous myself if I had to rely on my wife for that much memory..lol  no didn't just go shopping that was ages ago...lol
Being fully honest mine is just as bad... how one can be laying on the ground under a machine set down a tool (never get up) then spend 10 min looking for it because you can't see it and have no idea where you put it.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 9:44pm
Mine was completely plugged with corn husks when I got it.  I threw it in the hot tank while the engine was getting done - came out as good as new!

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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 4:15pm
I took the one on my D17D apart. It looked like it must have baled a few bales in it's life. There was a lot of chaff in it. I didn't have to drill any welds, they were already broken from the air stack hitting something and bending it back. A couple quick tacks with the mig welder put it right back together.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 8:15pm
Should not need to take this apart. Soak it in a pail of gas and then wash with hot water, compressed air etc.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 May 2012 at 8:29pm
I had to take them apart before because cleaning with anything just kept flushing more little bits of steel wire mess out. Throw the mess away and replace it;)
 After putting the work and money into a complete rebuilt engine, I wouldn't skimp  on the air intake to save a few bucks.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 05 May 2012 at 8:46am

The steel mesh is out and I agree I'm not going to skimp on things like that. The canister its self I'll split the double wall if It’s easy. Just too much wear and even if I get it clean there will be no way to protect the inner surfaces with paint to prevent any further rusting.  If I can't do it with out too much damage I will dunk it and hope for the best.

 




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