8050 Loosing prime
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49475
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 10:45am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 8050 Loosing prime
Posted By: acnh210
Subject: 8050 Loosing prime
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 2:30pm
|
I have 2 8050's and both have the same issue. They are both loosing there prime. I have replaced the lift pump and primer assembly on both tractors. I have replaced some orings on the fuel system of the one and almost all of oring and quad rings in the other one. They will start if you put the throttle wide open and then smoke and chug and finally run properly. When I start them it looks like we should be backing up to a sled for the pro stock class. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
|
Replies:
Posted By: MI8050
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 5:24pm
|
My 8050 did that and after wasting money on an electric pump I had help diagnosing the injection pump was bad. Spencer Diesel set up a reman at 10% over stock setting and it runs like a new one. Wouldn't start hot or cold without ether, then would run fine. It had 6750 hours on it when it got this way. Good luck!
|
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 8:20pm
|
7060 and 7080 both had problems losing prime had to bleed the air out at the top of the fuel filter after they sat a bit. I replaced every inch of the rubber fuel lines between the tank and the pump and never had a problem since. The lines on neither of them looked bad and didn't leak fuel out. Uncle had problems with his NH 8970 and after 3 trips from the dealer they changed out the fuel lines and the problems where solved. His pride cost him alot in service calls.
|
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 9:27pm
|
The M100's are tired.
Mine was shot BAD at 4900hrs (when I bought it)
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 9:33pm
My guess is the heads are tired in both of them. possibly injectors tired as well.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 9:42pm
|
Ed, you are referring to the pump heads, not the engine head, right? Darrel
|
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 9:46pm
|
Check Darrel! One little plunger pumps all the fuel for every cylinder! How do they last as long as they do?
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2012 at 6:33am
LOL! hydraulic head in the pump is correct. but on that note, compression could be down too, but not likely. Can check it while injectors are out.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
Posted By: BRYAN H
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2012 at 7:06am
|
HOW MANY HOURS?
I WOULD CHECK BOTH HOSE . THE ONE THAT RUNS IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE MIGHT HAVE A HOLE IN IT.
|
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2012 at 7:22am
|
When you say they will start if you put the throttle wide open, that don't sound like they are loosing prime. Sounds like worn pump head or delivery valve. MACK
|
Posted By: acnh210
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2012 at 11:51am
|
Thanks for the help guys. The throttle being wide open seems to help it start. It will start in the idle position but not as well.That could be in my head and no the tractor. Once ether one starts it will start fine until it sits again. I think I will replace the hoses first. Both pumps have been through a diesel shop at some point in there life but it was before my time.Thanks again
|
Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2012 at 12:04pm
|
Just one thought on this topic while it is up. I have an 8010 and an 8030 right now and had an 8030 before the current one. When you start all of these tractors the way they start right up, not crank around a lot on the starter I mean, is start key to start and turn the engine over about one revolution before moving the throttle from the off position and then go right to full throttle and they will start on the next revolution of the crankshaft every time. They will miss and buck a little for a few seconds (sometimes 10 to 15 when real cold) but will settle down and run on all six. I have seen our 8010 get cranked over for almost a minute, when not doing it the way I described, before starting. I think it has something to do with the design of the pump as all my other orange tractors don't start like this at all but my 3588 International would start down in the -20 degree Celsius range this way with no either and no block heater when you needed her to.
|
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2012 at 2:19pm
|
the sticker in my 8070 says for cold starts,move to full throttle then pull back emediently on start up
|
|