42 WC Engine Transplant
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48922
Printed Date: 26 Aug 2025 at 3:36am
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Topic: 42 WC Engine Transplant
Posted By: hamman01
Subject: 42 WC Engine Transplant
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 7:56am
| 1942, AC / WC Styled. It's time for this old girl to go into the garage and come to life. We have had her for 20yrs now and she hasn't run in all that time. This winter I was able to buy a WD motor for her and now we are going to put her in the garage tonight and start to give her a transplant. I am planning on writing her life story as I know it in the near future. Hope all goes well with the transplant. We are planning on rebuilding her original motor as we can and then replanting it back in her. Having trouble uploading pics right now so I will try it later. Roger. |
Replies:
Posted By: hamman01
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 11:15am
Just got the 42 WC (Allison) in the garage and ready to pull the motor when we noticed that the block is cracked thru all three webs. Was pretty sure we could rebuild this motor until I saw this. I will keep my eye open for a decent running WC motor in the future. As for now we are still going to pull it and put the 1950 WD motor in for now. Probably have the new one in by afternoon tomorrow. More to come. Roger.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 1:13pm
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Cracks between the cylinders in the top of the block is very common on these engines and poses no problem with rebuilding and normal operation. I would guess more are cracked than aren't. A crack in the bottom where the o-rings seal is a problem. The head gasket seals between the shoulder on the sleeve and the head. Sleeves should stand out .002-.004 of an inch. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: hamman01
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 1:25pm
| I was under the impression that it wouldn't seal and expand with the heat of the engine. They are cracked all the way thru. I am going out to look at them again. If I can I wll post a picture. Thanks CTucker. Roger. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 1:34pm
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Cracks all the way from one bore to the other have no effect on sealing the head. The head seals to the shoulder of the sleeve. Cracks down low let coolant leak into the oil pan. Whatever you do, don't scrap the block because of the cracks up top. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: hamman01
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 4:37pm
| I was just out there and the cracks are only on the top of the block. The bottom looks good so far. I was worried until I read these posts. Thanks for the info. More on the transplant as we go. Roger |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 9:47pm
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The guy that rebuilt the engine on my D14 a few years back called me in a panic telling me I had cracks up top between the cylinders. I told him not to worry and put it together. Works perfectly! ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: hamman01
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 10:27pm
| Thanks guys the more i read on this the more I feel comfortable rebuilding this engine. Roger |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 6:30am
You have to take the sleeves out to clean and inspect the bottom of the sleeve bore for cracks. Don't try to save a few dollars and rebuild without removing the sleeves and at least replacing the o-rings.  ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
hamman01 wrote:Posted By: hamman01
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 8:16am
| I have the sleeves out and when I pull the motor today I will remove the crank and cam shaft. This motor was cold started to use for plowing and the oil pump did not pump the oil up and it siezed up. I started to pull this down years ago but did not have the money or time to rebuild it. It has been garaged or covered for the last 20yrs. I looked at the block yesterday and it looked good on the bottom. After I get it out I will inspect it better. I am still trying to figure out how to post pictures. for you guys to see. Thanks. Roger. |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 8:30am
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Yep Titr cracks between the liners won't affect the engine operation. Be sure to check the deck (top of the block) for squareness. Not uncommon to have to mill 0.020-0.040 (and rebore the block for the new sleeves). A good machine shop can also line bore the block and connecting rods to eliminate the need for using shims there. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: Pa.Pete
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 11:28am
Roger, The easiest way I have found to post picturers is to sign up on a host site like http://www.photobucket.com" rel="nofollow - www.photobucket.com ( a similar site) upload your pics then just copy the link from there and when you start a new post click on the little tree at the top (insert image) and paste your link. Hope that helps, Pete |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 2:21pm
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The easiest way to do pictures is to open a free photobucket account. Go to www.photobucket.com, register and upload your pictures at the size recommended for sharing on web pages. Then if you go to the individual picture in your new album, copy the image code and past it in below your text in a post here. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: hamman01
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 6:30pm
| Got the block pulled and done a little cleaning on the tractor frame. Going to scrape and clean the engine a bit befor I put it in. couple of questions for you guys. Is the clutch alingment tool for this the same as a standard one? (if there is a standard one) I lent mine out and never got it back. Second question is for the old crank. How do you get the pully off the front of the crank? Thanks. Roger |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 9:21pm
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My clutch alignment tool has been my eyeball. Take the set screw out and make sure there isn't another one under it. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 9:52pm
| mr.tucker is right as rain,you wont find many 45 blocks with out hair line cracks in the webs.i have torn down and overhauled several 230 budas in the 45 and have had to scrap only one of them.top of that block looked like a spider web and the block was buckled.dont let the web cracks scare you....all had hairline cracks between the webs... |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 10:04pm
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Find a broom stick that is a snug fit in the splines. The round end will center the clutch plate when it rests in the pilot bearing. Last time i did that i turned a dowel to a taper for centering in the pilot bearing. There never has been a standard size of clutch plate splines and pilot bearing. Gerald J. |
Posted By: hamman01
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 11:20pm
| Thanks guys I am going to try thr broom stick trick. I had a alignment tool from the50s that my dad had an as I said I lent it out and never saw it again. Roger |