Saws-All blade question?
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Topic: Saws-All blade question?
Posted By: EdK
Subject: Saws-All blade question?
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 10:19am
| I use my Saws-All to cut metal pieces, (angle iron, channel, flat stock, etc.), for to fit my latest projects. My problem is that it works great for a few cuts then the blade must be changed since it dulls to the point of not cutting. Changing blades is not the problem, it's the cost of the blades. Can the blade life be extended by using cutting oil as I do for drilling? |
Replies:
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 10:30am
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I think it is just their way of selling more blades! I'd like to find a sawsall with an adjustable shoe so I could use those parts of the blade that are still sharp....seems all my steel cutting blades get dull in one area. ------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year: |
Posted By: Iowa_Allis
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 10:42am
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We use a sawzall a lot for cutting metal on construction projects. On some of our projects we have to cut devices into the sides of grain conveying equipment and might have to make up to 1000 cuts per project. We've tried using different brands, tpi, cutting oil, etc., and have found out that they just don't last no matter what you do. If you are cutting a lot of metal pieces for fabrication, you might be better off finding yourself a bandsaw or a metal cutting skill saw. The metal skill saw blades are EXPENSIVE!, but you can do a ton of cutting with them. They make nice cuts too. A hand-held bandsaw can be really handy too, and the blades last a lot longer due to the slower cutting speed and less heat build up. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 11:14am
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Bimetal blades cut longer than el cheapo blades. Lubrication can help. Keeping the speed down can be immense in blade longevity. Its important to pick teeth spacing closer than the thickness of the metal. There should be at least two teeth on the metal at all places in the stroke to keep from knocking teeth off. There shouldn't be dozens of teeth on the metal because the tooth gullets of small teeth won't hold the curl of cut metal by each tooth. My metal cutting band saw runs about 1/5th the speed of a wood cutting band saw, and has 7' of blade rotating the tooth wear compared to about and inch of sawzall blade per stroke. But shift to the slow speed range and don't run full tilt and the blade will last longer, unfortunately also the uncut metals. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 11:15am
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Actually, I am quite amazed at how long the blades last!
I'm only cutting mild steel with mine but I do get a lot of cuts out of each blade.
I always buy either "Sawzall" or "Lennox" Bi-metal blades as I find their quality seems better.
As with a hand hacksaw, it is important to keep the blade straight in the kerf.
Otherwise, the "set" will be lost and the blade won't cut well in short order.
It is also a mistake to "ride" the saw which puts undue wear on the blade.
The saw also cuts more eficiently if the shoe is held firmly against the piece being cut rather than holding the saw "freehand".
Having said all this, I picked up one of those Harbor Freight chop saws at a garage sale for $15 and am really pleased with how fast and straight it cuts.
My Sawzall blades are lasting really well now. LOL
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Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 11:52am
Keep the speed down so the blade does not get hot and loose it's temper and then get dull.
------------- CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914 |
Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 12:25pm
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I have been using a blade labeled as Demolition Rescue, Lennox brand, picked up at building center, is a little more aggresive than a regular metal cutting blade, 10 tpi I think. Hang onto your saw! ------------- |
Posted By: mgburchard
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 12:59pm
| what kind of saw |
Posted By: Dave in PA
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 2:39pm
| I have a Milwakie saw? I can NEVER spell it correct or try to! LOL So, that said, I buy Lenox blades only, cost more, but worth it! Go low speed, and slow push on the saw, last for more than others! |
Posted By: EdK
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 2:53pm
| I have a 2 ton, Sears, Saws-all. (2 tons is it's approximate weight not it's cutting ability). Actually it is a very heavy Sears Saws-all. I do have high tooth count blades that I use for aluminum cutting on my miter saw. Since metal cutting circular blades, that would cut steel, are quite expensive I am going to try a cheap grinder wheel on my miter saw. As Eldon mentioned the blades only cut and wear out in a very short span of the blade, (the saws fward and back, travel distance). I have gone to the short, lower tooth count, (10 tpi, and a 10/12 tpi), blades on my Saws-all. The short blades are a few cents cheaper. I will see how these work on my next metal cutting venture. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 3:36pm
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I went from torch to chop saw and was thrilled with the cutting of most metal , seldom use the saws-all unless something already mounted or such that cant get into chop-saw. Kid went to metal cutting circle saw , Milwaukee unit and uses it for plate cutting rather than torch or plasma cutting , still use the band saw (hacksaw ) with the 5 ft ban for lot of cutting , do have the large band-saw , with 12 ft band but that seems to be a lot of work to get things onto table and limited throat depth . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 4:35pm
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SPEED KILLS, the faster you run the blade, the faster you wreck it. Let the machine do the work, don't force it.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 6:56pm
| I got good result with Lenox and DEwalt blades but no compairson to a MILWAKEE port a band. |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 7:06pm
| I have a Milwaukee and a Dewalt both have adjustable shoes. The Milwaukee has a lever you pull to adjust and the Dewalt has 2 allen screws to adjust. I use Lenoex blades and cut a lot of rebar. In the shop I have a homemade chop saw that I use for a grinder, shaper and cut off saw. I also use a 4.5" grinder with cut off wheels but take it from experience use a full face shield. |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 8:52pm
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The best thing is a portable band saw. It will cut a long time without changing blades. I have a cheap Harbor Freight (69.00) and made hundreds of cuts over the past 8 years with it. Bob |
Posted By: Luke R.
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2012 at 9:07pm
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Lawson brand fire and rescue blades. Pricey but last forever. All we use in our fab shop. ------------- 4-7030's,170G,220FWA,3-220's,210,D21II,D21I industrial,2-200's,3-190's,175D,2-D19D's,D19G,WD45,WD,CA,2-UCont.,5015FWA,917,B110,Gleaner F |
Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 7:58am
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If you are doing a lot of cutting portable band saw is the only way to go. I don't use the sawzall unless its a small quick cut. I had the band saw for years and never used it much until I had a bunch of rebar to cut, it is now my metal cutting tool of choice. It's great for pipe, nice smooth cut and saddle cuts are clean and fast. ------------- 1944 Allis C 1960 Allis D-17 LP |
Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2012 at 9:30am
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As a contractor using a sawzall I would agree with the hand held bandsaw.
Although a sawzall used carefully can do finer work and works in a pinch if you can't afford the proper tool, it is a demolition tool. Designed for just that(quick and dirty). The blades are throw away blades. Start each job with a new one. Even the expensive blades are cheap compared to labor. The cost of blades don't even show up as a blip on the estimate.
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