Help! Trying to change a tire on my D14
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42765
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Topic: Help! Trying to change a tire on my D14
Posted By: CarsonD14
Subject: Help! Trying to change a tire on my D14
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2011 at 10:15pm
Well, I've come again to the guys who've done everything AC! You guys always give me the best help around.
I've got a 1957 D14. The rim finally rusted out on my back wheel. So I got a new rim, but I can't even get the wheel off the tractor. First we were going to leave the inner wheel on the tractor and just remove the rim (it has the power adjust rims). But we ran into several issues. First off, I removed the 8 bolts that hold the rectangular mounting pieces (that bridge between the wheel and the rim) to the wheel. The tire-rim system wouldn't come off. I think that maybe I have to loosen the retaining bolts that hold the tire in one place along the rails on the rim? But I couldn't loosen those, impact gun and everything. So I finally decided to take the whole wheel and everything off. So I removed the 8 bolts that hold the wheel to the hub. The whole thing still won't come off. Do I need to remove the center cap that's in the middle of the wheel? If so, how? Do I need a special tool?
If you guys can give me help on any of these steps, I'd really appreciate it. I know my descriptions aren't the greatest, and unfortunately, I couldn't find a great picture to clarify things. Thanks guys!
Carson
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Replies:
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2011 at 10:24pm
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A real big hammer will help out a lot.
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2011 at 10:42pm
I hate to sound so stupid, but what should I pound on? Does that center cap really hold the wheel on, or do we just pound till it comes off?!?
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2011 at 10:48pm
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I'd imagine that the inner rim is rusted onto the hub. There is no center cap to come off. Kind of hard to do, but try to pound the rim off. I went through the same nightmare on my D14 a few years ago. Darrel
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2011 at 10:52pm
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In that case Darrel, I'll just start pounding! Thanks for the help! I really like your avatar!
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Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 5:48am
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Is your new wheel really new? I need one for mine. Where did you get it from?JP
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 6:27am
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Use a big pry bar from back to pry between final drive and wheel while beating on inner wheel around bolt patteron. Leve one in loose to keep wheel from falling on you when it cimes loose. MACK
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 7:46am
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Odds are you're the first guy to pull the rim off after 50+ years, fun,been there done that..
You could put the 8 bolts back on, leave them say 1/4" from tight, then drive back and forth a few times.It might help loosen the rim a bit. I did pour light oil into the crack between the rim and hub.that may help. It does allow you to pause between hammering! BTW you need to hammer from the inside out,NOT an easy task.If you have a thin chisel and a 2# hammer,again put it in the crack of rim and hub.Go easy and around and around NOT in just one spot. Also only have the tire off ground by an inch or 2.If filled with calcium and it rolls, it'll find the nearby hill, go down ,across the field and end up in the ditch 450' away.And yes, they are bloody heavy and awkward to get 'vertical' again.
Be smart...Be safe !!
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 8:16am
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If you can make yourself wait.....mix up the 50/50 acetone/dexron and soak everything that needs to come apart for a day. Even the hub center.The stuff really makes a difference.
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 8:20am
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Apply PB blaster around the Hub Center and put a couple bolts part way back in. to prevet the tire from falling then start hammering around the out side of the rim. hammering from the outside works just as well. your trying to loosten the rust bhond between the rim center and the hub. I've had one that after a whole day of trying eveything including a hyd jack between thew rim and frame. I hookd a chain to the rim and jerked it off with my dually. once its off lay it on the ground with the center bolts removed and pound the center. the slide locks will then fall out. you can now take each slide lock and clean and lube. when you put it back together your PAWs will finally adjust.
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Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 8:53am
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I agree with all the above posts, reminds me of when I was younger and worked for a contractor. Me and another guy were given job to put new rails (tracks) on a D-8 dozer, the shop had a fixture to hold a big punch to drive out the master pins, well after spending couple hours pownding with a 10# sledge the forman went and got a 30# sledge and the carpenter forman happened to stop in-- he was a great big guy-- after about 3 hits the pin moved about 1/4 " us regular fellas were then able to finish getting it out.
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Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:15am
Mack has the best solution. I've used it to remove at least a dozen Allis wheels, and after trying most of the other suggestions, Mack's system work the best for me.
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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:22am
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I use a variation of Mack's method. Drive some wood between the final drive and wheel . this takes the slop in the bearings outward then hit the center of axle with the heaviest sledge you have, works everytime. Darned important to leave a loose bolt or two in the wheel for safety purposes.
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:38am
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Thanks so much guys! I'm off work tomorrow, so I'll probably give all that a try. Thanks for all the input! I'll let you know how it goes.
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:43pm
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I use a jack between the rims in the rear, or from the drawbar to the rim. I'm too old to swing a sledge too much. Bob
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 4:20pm
Well guys, we got the wheel off last night. Used Mack's method. Dad used a 2x4 to pry between the wheel and final drive and I pounded on the center of the axle. Came off after about 5 minutes or so. Put her on the ground and knocked the center wheel out and the slide locks fell right out, just like you said they would. Thanks so much to all of you for the great input. It's a difference of night and day having someone who's done it before tell you what to do!!!
Now I've got another question. Anybody have any awesome method's for taking tires off rims? The tire isn't really touching anything on the one side of the rim (It all rusted away, and then I tore/broke/slammed the rest of it off). So really we just need to get the bead broken down and slide the tire off the other side of the rim. Any help's appreciated!
Thanks again for all the help on the first step, you have no idea how grateful I am!
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Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 6:22pm
Carson, the best way that I have found is to have a High-Lift jack and put the rim under the draw bar and put the bottom of the jack on the tire very near the bead and the other part of the jack under the draw bar and just jack away. It'll push the tire down and off, away from the edge of the rim. You might have to spin the time 180 to drop both sides of the tire. Works very well and is quite safe.
Ted
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 12:02pm
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Thanks Ted. We don't have a High-Lift jack, but I've been thinking we need to get one for quite a while. We'll see if we can get it done, if not, the local tire shop will get a little more business!
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Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 2:48pm
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Go on a tractor ride. When you are depending on it to stay on, it will fall off.
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 5:05pm
Isn't that the truth!!! :)
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Tractors are just too much fun!!!
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 6:19pm
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When mounting be sure to WRITE DOWN which side it's for !!!
You do NOT want 2 lefts or 2 rights !!!
No, you can't ask HOW I know......
(trying to hide in corner,crouching, hands over face)
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 9:38am
Am I glad you said something, Jay! The thought that it might matter which side they're mounted for crossed my mind the other day, but I forgot about it pretty quick!
You need some things like that to happen once in a while, or it just wouldn't be real life! :)
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Tractors are just too much fun!!!
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Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 11:15am
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Take a photo before you take them off. Look at the photo before you put them back on.
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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 11:50am
What I use to get a tire off of a rim is to lay the entire tire/rim flat on the ground, and put a metal ramp from my trailer(or a 2 x 12) up on the tire as close to the rim without going over the rim. Take a truck or another tractor and drive up on the ramp or 2 x 12 and let the weight of the vehicle pull the tire off the rim. Has always worked for me, even if it is really rusted on there. Sometimes I leave my truck on the tire overnight or during the day when I am gone. It can take some time but it always works. Then flip the tire/rim over and repeat. I usually put the whole thing back on the tractor and use bars to get the tire off. It works better to have the rim mounted on something rigid. I paid a local shop 100 bucks once to demount and remount a set of tires. After that, I learned to do it myself and keep the money for other projects.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Posted By: CarsonD14
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 6:29pm
Clay and Chuck, thanks for the advice. We used a 10' 4x6 as a lever and a piece of steel to ram down alongside the rim and break the bead. Did it just this afternoon. I hope we put it back on right. Clay, I didn't see your post til after we got it done! Chuck, the $100 is exactly the reason we did it ourselves! Putting it back on the tractor is a good idea, have to try that when we go to mount it.
Thanks again to everyone on this forum who helped us along on this project!
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Tractors are just too much fun!!!
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Posted By: Soilguy
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 12:02pm
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Thanks from me, too. I have a a related question. What has to be done when remounting tires? My D-14 lp is in bad need of new rear tires. I've hesitated trying to mount new ones myself for fear of hernias, etc. I would like to clean up the rims and repaint them before remounting new tires, but I'm afraid of what the tire shops will charge for removing the old tires, and letting me take the rims back home to refinish, then taking them back for new tire mounting. The other reason for my hesitating is that it has 13" rims and 14.9 tires. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Larry
PS: The cost of new 14.9 tires is what's driving me to plan this as cheaply as possible!!
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Posted By: stray
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 4:46pm
First off if you are taking it to the tire shop, I wouldn't worry about it costing more. Just make sure that you talk to them about your plans ahead of time. Most understand and will make some kind of provision. We have one around here that will charge the total cost when they dismount them and put on invoice that it was already paid for the mounting. The other won't charge till you come back and mount them.
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1969 190XT series 3
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Posted By: bobkyllo
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 8:41pm
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to mount it make sure the inside of the tire is completly clean. any little dirt can hurt a tube. put alot of lube on the first bead and start prying away. a variety of bars will be your friend. it will get tough. do not rip the bead either. you will either see the bead start or hear it. stop before you wreck it to bad. always lube things if you think its getting dry lube it again. lube is cheap tires arent. i run a tire truck for a living. dad goes nuts when he sees how much i use. well it for one thing is easier to mount and a second thing it is easier on the tire. longer the bar the better. if you have some wimpy foot long bars you may as well give up. i have nothing less then two feet long some are 36 inches long even. the more leverage the better off you are
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Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 9:13pm
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Have a look at this site:
http://www.titan-intl.com/media/safety.pdf - http://www.titan-intl.com/media/safety.pdf
You'll need tire irons, a solution of Murphy's Oil Soap & Water and a rubber mallet, although I have used a sledge as I am not as young as I used to be. I would not say that it is easy, but it can be done with patience. It gets easier with practice, but you would have to learn on the job. I believe that it is easier to mount rear tires with rim already on tractor. Probably easier for two guys to stand the tire up, but I don't have that luxury.
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Posted By: Bolivar Boy
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 9:45pm
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carson. next time you need to get a tire/rim off the hub just back the hub lugs back 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the hub center. do a couple of fiqure 8's in the driveway @ idle speed, 1st gear. the clunk of the rim pulling away from the hub will be music to your ears and a tonic to your back.
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