D-14 hydraulics problem
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41785
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Topic: D-14 hydraulics problem
Posted By: Herb(GA)
Subject: D-14 hydraulics problem
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2011 at 6:26pm
| The D14 hydraulic lift gradually quit working just as I was finishing a couple day project of regrading our sons backyard. Timing was great; we had to manually raise the landscape box before loading the D-14 onto the trailer. The trans dipstick is 2" above normal level; so assume the failure is in the hose to the hydraulic cylinder in the rearend. Anything special for someone who has no experience on such project? And ok to just drain off the extra oil, or should the trans be completely drained and refilled with correct oil? All responses appreciated. Herb |
Replies:
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2011 at 7:13pm
|
Check around the lift arm housing. There is a hose there that could have broken or leaked. You will know from oil coming from that area. Thinking now, that is not it cause you would not be overfilled. Check linkage. If lucky do not have to take it off. If you do drain the oil good. Pump is at the bottom of the sump and you want as much oil as possible out so you don't get a drip. Wish I could help you more but we did not have problems with D-14s they were too new. Good Luck! Bill Long |
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2011 at 9:21pm
| Could be hose or packing. I would replace both while inside it. Also a couple of others bits of help. Don't twist the hose, should be a strip down it's lenght so you can tell. Make sure it doesn't rub anything inside. Replace the rubber Oring at ram anchor pivot. HTH Tracy Martin |
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 9:55am
|
Reminds me of another project I need to get done. My D14 did the same thing last year, but caused a lot more damage cause I had my allcrop grain drill on the back (long story).
Anyway, use a big drain container as there is probably more than 5 gallons of oil in the rearend.... ------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year: |
Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 10:04am
| Herb, check your traction booster valve to be sure it is not stuck. Usually they stick in the up position, but I'd check it before draining. |
Posted By: John Sealey
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 11:26am
| If the lift cylinder blew a seal or the hose blew, you have to take the back housing off of the rear of the tractor. I just did this. You have to drain the transmission remove the p.t.o. then under the right running board there is a pin that goes into the end of the lift cylinder. Then you better have a hoist to lift the rear housing it is heavy. Remove the seat undo the hydraulic lines and all the bolts then slide it off. Mine the hose for the lift cylinder was rubbing and after almost 60 years it let go. Good luck |
Posted By: 79fordblake
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 11:36am
| I replaced the hose on my neighbors D14 earlier this year...he had been trying to get away with it for years....but the leak kept getting worse and worse and the trans was leaking everywhere from being overfilled and ruined his brakes. Works like new now though. |
Posted By: Herb(GA)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 1:02pm
| Your responses are appreciated. The traction booster works; had it at various settings when using all purpose plow. How do I determine if it is stuck? Also the PO had replaced all oils during a minor overhaul; do I just drain off the extra oil in trans or replace the trans oil? Allis G's with hydraulics use hydraulic oil in their trans (which were initally designed for Allis B's and C's)? Herb |
Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 2:04pm
Herb, if you had the TB working, it most likely is not stuck. It usually sticks because of not using it for a while after getting it caked with mud or snow. The valve has a linkage connected to that big  ed spring on the snap coupler. If you disconnect it and work it back and forth it is ok. If it wont move, most likely stuck. The TB lifts or lowers your hitch independant of your lift valve. I had a D-12 with the TB stuck in the lift position. We could only lower the implements with the engine off. Once you started the engine, the plow raised to full height and would not lower. I guess some bent linkage down there would be similar. The only reason I mentioned it, is because I disassembled the whole three gang hydraulic valve system before I found it was the TB valve. Three days work and the only thing I learned is those little balls and springs are hard to find when you drop them.Wow, is that censored thing new? I better go back and check my post on cleaning the manure spreader, it must look like an extortion note. |
Posted By: Herb(GA)
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 6:48pm
|
There are very few AC's in this area (because there is very little farm land, and much of that is now blacktop or shingles); so no experienced AC mechanics. Anything else you can share will be appreciated (by me, and passed on to the guy doing the work). Herb |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 8:58pm
|
If you need to get into the back end, there are a few seals that you should probably get so you have them. I did this job on my D15 this summer as it was leaking hyd. oil. Anyways, mine, the packing was shot on the cylinder. I ended up buying the packing/seal kit from an AGCO dealer, along with the big paper seal that goes between the rear lift housing and the rearend. The o ring that is on the rear ram pivot is a good one to do right away also. And if it hasn't been done in awhile, the seal on the pto shaft is a good one, along with the oring behind the bearing housing. I had already done that one last year so that one was good to go.
Some people have been using hyd/trans oil in all of the compartments, the hydraulic, the power director, and the rear end. I would drain them out individually and if they all look the same you can put them back in anywhere.
When you get it all back together, it can be fun trying to get the ram back in the right spot and getting the pin in. It's easiest to use a long bar through the pto hole while it is still out to get it in the right place, but it also helps to have someone wiggle the pin and work it in. I did it all myself and it will try your patience that way.
If you need any more pointers, just ask. Many of us have been through this and it's really not all that bad of a job. I did mine because a horse wrecked my radiator and I was waiting on a good used one to come in so the tractor was down anyways. I think with the rear paper seal and the ram packing seal etc, it was less then $50 in parts. ------------- 1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221 |