This is my first post, I am a newbie here.

 

I want to get my fathers 1948 Allis Chalmers Model C running.

Wide front end with cultivators.

I has not run since about 1987. The gas tank has holes in it.

Local radiator shop says they can fix that properly.

 

The engine turns over (hand crank) and makes compression in all cylinders.

Clutch works, transmission goes into all gears, no water in crankcase oil.

The radiator fluid had been drained. I guess I should fill it and see what happens.

 

The carburetor is a Marvel-Schebler TSX-154. This may not be

the original. Manual says they used a Zenith 161J7 that year.

Since it used to work well with that carb, I will clean this one up.

 

Magneto doesn't spark. I remember the original Fairbanks Morse

malfuntioned and he replaced it with the current mag, an American Bosch.

So now this one is not working. Should I fix this, find a Fairbanks or

purchase a new Wico? What would be best for future maintainability?

 

Do these things have a thermostat? The radiator has the shutter system.

 

Any advice on hydraulic system and first startup damage prevention?

 

Thank you for any advice.

 

-Brian

 

 

1. The TSX154 is a good carb and showed up on some C, and CA models. Use it.

2. On the Mag, spray the points with a tuner cleaner or Brakekleen. Don't file em. When you file them you take the cad plating off of them and you'll be in the Mag constantly to file em' again to get the engine fired. We offer Mag service, parts and rebuilding if interested. As Charlie mentioned, it could have a stat in it. My B did, and that was equipped with shutter's. I would change the oil & filter in the engine and hydraulics first before starting.  Once you get the engine running good, engage the PTO and see what you have for hydraulics. You may find it will be fine.... Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

mailto:Steve@B&B - Steve@B&B

Listen closely to what is said above.  You have the advice of some very deep knowledge.  If you are having trouble with your mag SteveNJ can take cae of it with parts or a rebuild. 

You are quite fortunate that the engine is not stuck since it has not run in such a long time.  You will find the C to be a most dependable and very basic unit. 

Let us know how it goes.

Good Luck!

Bill Long

 

I am on west coast, tractor is on east coast.

I only have limited vacation time to get it

working. So I need to plan this out and get

parts lined up. A time limit is motivation, but

also adds stress. So next time I visit I will arrive

with a carb rebuild kit and points and  condenser

in my suitcase.

 

I would post pictures, but I would need a real

long telephoto lens!  This is why I can't just see

if there is a thermostat.

   Also, there is a "visual" problem. Ah, err, I don't

know how to put it, ok, just blurt it out, tell 'em.

The tractor is painted a dark green! My father painted it

about 2 years after his dad passed. Maybe grandpa

had remarked  that he liked the old Allis Chalmers 

green color better than the new orange?

I won't be drummed out of the forum now, will I?

Thank you.

 

 

 

 

 

In fact the first flat top WC my father sold was shown to me one day by a customer.  He had painted it Blue.  I was almost sick. 

I remember I told him If you wanted to paint the FIRST TRACTOR MY FATHER SOLD BLUE call me and I will get you the paint.

In any event don't worry.  We all know what an Allis Chalmers is even though it may be a different color.

Good Luck!

Bill Long

Don't worry about the color, paint is cheap.

Let me know how you come out on the gas tank work. The one i'm working on right now has holes rusted in it from the OUTSIDE! The inside is perfect, no rust, and was full of fresh gas when I brought it home(my dad was still using it). He said he couldn't fill the tank more than 1/2 full or it leaked. I saw why. Tractor had mounted planters, and fertilizer had eaten through the tank in several places. Still thinking about fixing it. Hard to find them now with no rust inside.

 

The carb may be original. My 1950 has a MS TX 154 on it too. Works fine.

 

Listen to Steve and some others on the mag. No filing. Might use steel wool to get off oxidation, but if you file, you will keep having problems. Course, if someone already filed them, it won't hurt. I recommend taking a new set of points/condenser with you. Clean it all up, and make sure the kill switch tang/kill wire is not shorted to anything. Probably just needs a good cleaning.

 

Other than that, parts can be found from several sources on here, or just look in fencerows(if you have the time). These little rascals are common. Bs can be used for engine/transmission parts, as well as hood, gas tank, and tool box. Other tinwork is specific to the C. Concentrate on one thing at a time. Engine first. Get it running, the rest will fall into place.

 

 

 

 

For encouragement. If yours isn't any worse than these two, you have nothing to worry about. Both of these run fine now. In the process of replacing sheet metal and making them look presentable. Nothing to it. If I can do it, anybody can.