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Any Way to Improve Brake Lock on a D17?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31577
Printed Date: 14 Sep 2025 at 3:02pm
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Topic: Any Way to Improve Brake Lock on a D17?
Posted By: AllisUpstate
Subject: Any Way to Improve Brake Lock on a D17?
Date Posted: 31 May 2011 at 8:33pm
On my new D17 IV, the brake lock is the same cam arrangement as used on the several previous series, which is to say, it doesn't work very well.  Much as I love the D17, the brake lock is as bad as I always remembered it, meaning I would never expect the brakes to hold on a hill, so I would always shut down the tractor and put it in gear first.  However, I noticed in the D17 IV Operators Manual a picture of the brake lock using a saw-tooth type plate bolted to the pedal, so the latch could actually engage it reliably.  Is this something used on later tractors, and is it possible to easily retrofit it?  On my Farmall 200, I can lock the brakes using my heel, and they will hold on any hill.  The D17 brake lock is a joke basically, but I'm wondering if a positive engagement ratchet arrangement might help. 



Replies:
Posted By: Ryan Renko
Date Posted: 31 May 2011 at 9:14pm
My 64 D17 has a saw tooth style parking brake. Even it was prone to popping out off park. Imagine the lawsuits nowadays!!! LOL  I finally used a right angle grinder and defined the saw tooth notches and it works great. Ryan


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 31 May 2011 at 9:20pm
All series 4's had saw tooth design...one change was made to it over the years.....the 3/8"  bolt that goes thru the platform ( and holds the pivot pin) comes in from underneath and is an all-thread bolt, so using two nuts it can be adjusted to come in contact with the torque housing eliminating platform flexing while retaining the pivot pin for the locking pawl.


Posted By: Russ-neia
Date Posted: 31 May 2011 at 10:16pm

The platform bolt Dr. Allis mentions helps, but does not cure the problem.  I take the saw-teeth and deepen the notches with a side-grinder and cutoff (thin) disk.  Much more reliable and can be locked tighter.

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The innovators offer what others will imitate.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 6:24am
Alll series 4's also have the brake pedals with the swing over lock plate to tie them together.


Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 8:16am
If the brakes are adjusted correctly, I've never had a problem with the cam lock.  Actually I prefer it over the later notched style.

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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.


Posted By: AllisUpstate
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 4:07pm
Thanks Dr. Allis and the others with help.  The area around the brake lock was full of grease and dirt, so I just glanced at it and assumed it was the cam style.  It is the saw-tooth arrangement.  I cleaned things up and studied it a bit, and one reason it doesn't hold well is that there is too much give in the entire platform assembly, so once the pawl locks, the entire assembly shifts upwards under pressure, losing most of the hold on the brake pedal.  I will be replacing the Snap Coupler housing with one from a factory 3ph off a 185, so all the brakes and such will be coming off.  When I reassemble it, I will make sure the mentioned support bolt is correct, and I might deepen the notches as several have mentioned.  


Posted By: Ryan Renko
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 8:34pm
I should have stated in my post that I had a very thin wheel in my right angle grinder as I was defining the saw teeth. Just touched them up enough to make a big difference.


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 10:25pm
Guess I'll hafta help Ted's case... I've got a Series 1 with ordinary cam, and it locks 'em down tight.  DIdn't when I got it, but the brake shoe adjustment solved that...

but I'll take it on advisement that this may not always be the case... so I won't trust it.  :-)



Posted By: KenBWisc
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:14am
The dog on my D-19 locking mechanism is worn to where it won't lock and hold. What is the best fix? Anyone reproducing the dog? Anyone have the serrated replacement model for sale?


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'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!


Posted By: Insbroker2
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2015 at 8:05am
Reviving an old post. Can anyone post pictures of what the "brake lock" lever should look like installed. I bought a partially disassembled series IV and I don't have one close to cheat with and the parts manual didn't help. I have the rod installed on notched locks and bolted down at the top. but it just flops around. There must be something else that keeps it in place. Thanks!


Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 10:11pm
I guess I am not familiar with the saw tooth design, unless it is the same thing as the D 19 uses, but I sure like the cam lock design that my series 2 has. Guess my 15 and 14 have that design also. No complaints from me on it. Darrel


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 7:26am
Essentially the same pawl and saw teeth as a D-19, yes.


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 7:53am
My cam doesn't depress the pedals enough to engage the brakes.....
I think I need to adjust something LOL


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 8:34am
If the breaks are adjusted right the cam will engage just fine. Now that funky bent rod to disengage it once the break peddle is wedged against it that thing could use some work.


Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 9:35am
The brake ratchet & pawl were badly worn on my D17serIV.

I drew up the ratchet piece with 1 less cut than the original; 10 vs 11, respectively.

Had new ones laser-cut.  The teeth then became somewhat hardened.

Idea being that the cuts would be a little deeper.  Having 1 less cut didn't affect the function.

The pawl was re-pointed so that engaged fully.


Old vs New



deeper cuts on New




D17 Ratcheting Brake Lock a'y




and per Dr Allis,  adjust the bolt & jam nut so that the platform doesn't move/flex.


Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 9:11pm
I need to do something to my D-10. I haven't looked at it, but like your D-17 it doesn't hold.

Dusty


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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"


Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 9:15pm
Originally posted by TedBuiskerN.IL. TedBuiskerN.IL. wrote:

If the brakes are adjusted correctly, I've never had a problem with the cam lock.  Actually I prefer it over the later notched style.

I agree.  I've been around an early D17 and a Series III all of my life and never had an issue with the brake lock not working in any fashion.  I was surprised to see this topic.


Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 9:51pm
My 160's pawl and ratchet parking brake is not working anymore. worn.



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