Farm Equipment - 7060 cab heater problems

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7060 cab heater problems

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24207
Printed Date: 06 Jun 2024 at 10:10pm
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Topic: 7060 cab heater problems

Posted By: jtp
Subject: 7060 cab heater problems
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 12:56am

my 7060 heater when idling wont curculate fluid through the heater hoses. I have to rev the tractor up to around 1700 rpm before the fluid will curculate, and only then is the air luke warm. Could the rad. cap be the problem here? I took the heater core out and blew through it and there is no blockage.

Replies:

Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 2:02am

the same way in my 7080 and 7010! gotta be working or driving them for good heat!

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 6:45am

Whats the engine temp doing? If the engine is running cool, the heat will be too. What did you blow the heater core out with? I have cleaned heater cores by reverse flushing with water from the garden hose and compressed air flowing at the same time.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: Gregor
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 10:16am

a quick way to tell if the cap is good is if the hoses have pressure after warmed up. My 2009 chevy impala blows cold after idiling. Long story short, dealer finally replaced radiator cap after I told them after 1/2 hr of running, the system had no pressure and I could take the radiator cap off without fluid pouring out.

Posted By: jtp
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 11:10am

Even when the tractor is working and the engine temp is in normal position there will be little to no heat. When the tractor is in this state I felt the heater hoses and they would be hot for about 4 feet from the motor than stop: ice cold... Now this is when I took the hoses off the heater core and ran the tractor at 1700 rpm before the antifreeze would finally flow. I blew the heater core the same way you discribe Brian Jasper co.

Posted By: Russ-neia
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 1:54pm

Have you taken the return hose off at the engine to see if antifreeze is flowing back? I've had trouble with air-lock on these.

Sometimes soft rubber (old) hoses will kink or get pinched and not allow flow. Remember that radiator pressure is only 10-15 PSI where a garden hose or air line is much greater and may give you false confidence that there are no restrictions.

Also check valve at cab top to be certain it is opening fully. Next step would be to check thermostats, but you say engine is reaching operating temp?

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The innovators offer what others will imitate.

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 4:43pm

What about the fan belt? If the belt was slipping maybe the pump isn't being turned as fast as it should be? Is the water pump impeller intact and not loose on the shaft? Russ has a good point about any kinks.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: jtp
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 7:47pm

Yes good point about the hoses they are original and travel up thuough the corners posts possible they are kinking where they make the bend coming out. My thermostat is a 7 psi so I will try a new one and then the heater hoses. The belts appear to be tight and hopefully the water pump is good. Would a higher psi rad cap help anything?

Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 9:26pm

Your thermostat may be bad.

I would not put a higher pressure cap on. I have seen radiators blown that way.