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loader or not? need advice

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23704
Printed Date: 10 May 2024 at 4:28am
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Topic: loader or not? need advice
Posted By: Brian S(NY)
Subject: loader or not? need advice
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2011 at 6:03pm

Today we split my d15 II and replaced the ring gear, starter and while at it replaced the clutch disk and throw out bearing. Its always had a trip loader and the front end around the pivot pin is getting pretty warn. I know the loader did this and am thinking of not putting the loader back on. will that be a big mistake? The loader is handy. If it was ful hydraulic I would put it back on. without the loader Id have to rely on the back blade for snow removal.



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God made man.Sam colt made man equal.



Replies:
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2011 at 6:06pm
I would fix up the front pivot and put the loader back on.   Think of how many years it took it to wear that much.   Even if it's a trip loader, a loader in itself is a huge benefit to have. 

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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2011 at 6:12pm
I have a D-14 that came with a loader,but sold off the bucket,cylinders and bucket frame.For my use , the loader was too heavy to steer the D-14 without power steering and the extra length was  a challenge in tight corners. I've used the back blade to push snow now for 5 years and aside from a stiff neck, it work out well.Mind you this season,  I haven't needed it. I'm located near Hamilton,Ont. and the snow seems to skirt around us.I have seen pictures of adding a cylinder to the bucket(simple enough) and if you could use it year round, it might be worth the time and effort.
Course, this from a guy who bought a gleaner thinking he'd replace the header with a blade or blower....


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2011 at 6:15pm
I would repair the pivot and put the loader back on. A trip loader is very handy . beets a strong back and a shovel. it took many years to wear and repaired it'll last many more. I welded up the pivot on my CA put the loader back on and expect it to outlast me.


Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2011 at 7:18pm
I'd put the loader back on...you can pull off the bucket and arms in a matter of minutes...put it back on when you need it.  Just stand the lift cylinders straight up and bungie them to the loader frame...don't have to touch the hydraulics at all. A valve setup like this one on my D14 and you can use the rear lift while the loader cylinders are still attached.
 


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ALLIS EXPRESS!
This year:


Posted By: bigr'shed
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2011 at 8:04pm
Here's a picture of my '40 WC with full Hydraulic loader (live) and 3 point. Don't use it much but when you need a loader sure is handy.


Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2011 at 8:25pm
The pivot pin on my D-10 was in bad shape and it did not have a loader on it. From what I've read on here most are also badly warn. I believe it is because there was no way to grease them. When I rebuilt mine I added a grease zerk. 

Dusty


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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"


Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2011 at 7:24am
RE the pivot pin grease zerk
 
As I foggily recall when I rebuilt that assembly on my 15 II it had what looked like a factory grease zerk going into the bottom in front of the pin.
 
If your front pivot is flakey and you are looing at it, I would not hesitate to fix it up.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2011 at 9:37am
I always get the local machine shop to fab a new pivot pin for my tractors.  After 40+ years of wear, it is best to fix them up.

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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2011 at 3:47pm
I say, have the pivot fixed... bore it out round, and install a bronze sleeve, install a good stout pin... put the loader back on, but fit the bucket with a hydraulic curl, and change the valves and lift cyls with double-acting, so you have full hydraulic.  THEN put on a hydraulic steering valve and a ram on the steering rod.

The trip bucket is handy, but once you've got a full-hydraulic loader, you'll NEVER want to take it off.  Loaders keep young men from getting old fast, and keep older men from giving up and sitting in the La-Z-Boy.  Finally... when you get a full-hydraulic loader stuck, just curl the bucket down, bury it in the snow/mud, and curl... it'll push 'ya out of some of the most awful stucks you've ever seen.  ;-)


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2011 at 3:48pm
Mean lookin' loader there, 'shed-  is that a Lull??


Posted By: bigr'shed
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2011 at 6:47pm
Not sure, no labels or ID plates. It was on the WC when I bought it from the original owner. Thought maybe a Farmhand, but now that you mention it, could be a Lull. 



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