190XT Fuel Pump Leaking?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=208545
Printed Date: 18 Oct 2025 at 6:20am Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 190XT Fuel Pump Leaking?
Posted By: Fantrum
Subject: 190XT Fuel Pump Leaking?
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 3:58pm
Hey everyone,
I went and started up the good ol' 1968 190XT (Series 2, I think) today to get some bush hogging done. It hasn't been started since this spring for plowing. I checked oil and all that good stuff, put in a fresh 20 gallons of gasoline. It started up just fine as it normally does, no issues at all. However, I noticed a fuel leak from what appears to be the fuel pump. I found what looks incredibly similar in the service manual (Page 194, see attached), but I believe it's a little different. The manual also says the G-2800 could have a carb, but it looks nothing alike. I will attach two images as well to show the component/leak.
When I first started it, the leak seemed like a lot. The radiator fan was blowing back against it and causing the fuel to spray all over, so it was very hard to decipher where the source was. I decided to at least let the engine warm up completely at idle (2,500 RPMs) before shutting it back off. Once it had run for about 15-20 minutes, I checked again and the leak was much less severe. I could also now tell that it was coming from what looks to be a relief hole in the lower-half (see attached). If I covered the hole, the leak would stop and the engine appeared to run exactly the same. This is where bad ideas happen.
I decided to plug the hole with some putty to get me through the brush hogging, and then I would dismantle it later and repair it properly. I went out bush hogging for over an hour with zero leaks or issues. Then I had a small hiccup in RPMs. It only lasted a couple seconds and went away. A little bit later the engine did more than hiccup and stopped. I shut it all off, turned off the PTO, etc. Restarted the engine and it idled just fine. I put it in gear to drive it back to the house and it died as I let off the clutch.
I am assuming these two are related. I currently have it sitting in the field. The putty is still in place and sealing the leak effectively - which I realize may be the cause of my current issue.
When I first started the engine today, it appeared the leak was from somewhere on the upper half of the fuel pump, but later, after it died down, it was only from this relief hole. Would anyone have any insight as to what the original issue was, why it changed as it warmed up, and why it shut down after over an hour of running hard?
Thanks!
uploads/21742/190XTServiceManualPg194.png" rel="nofollow - uploads/21742/190XTServiceManualPg194.png
uploads/21742/LeakyLeak.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/21742/LeakyLeak.jpg
uploads/21742/LeakyLeaker.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/21742/LeakyLeaker.jpg
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Replies:
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 6:17pm
I would say the diaphragm is gone in the fuel pump, and with the blocked up drain holes the excess fuel has gone into the crankcase and seriously diluted the engine oil. It may have damaged the bearings.
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Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 7:29pm
Oi. I'll have to look into that then. Thanks!
I've been looking into sourcing a new fuel pump and have found several replacements online, but a rebuild kit would be much preferred. Does anyone know of a rebuild kit for these that is still available somewhere? Or perhaps a cheaper electric fuel pump option?
EDIT: So I walked out to the field and gave the engine oil dipstick a whiff. I would say it has a fuel smell. Guess I'm gonna give it an oil change and unplug my drain hole on the fuel pump. Side note. I'm not saying it's a bad design, as I would assume there is a purpose behind it... But why does the fuel pump have a direct connection to the crankcase? Is it lubricated with engine oil as well, being a mechanical pump? I am ignorant on this design, but I do understand it's my own ignorance that has led to a bad decision.
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 8:49pm
Many of those old mechanical fuel pumps (on cars, trucks and tractors) were removed and a flat piece of steel made to cover the hole. The fuel pump was replaced by an inexpensive electric fuel pump.
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Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 9:01pm
Thanks for that! I honestly think that's the direction that I am leaning. Keeping it original will cost me somewhere close to $300 if I can't find a rebuild kit - which is proving impossible thus far. I don't see the point in doing that if there is a cost-effective easy solution that works well.
Also. I see why the fuel pump is connected to the crankcase now... I was thinking about it and it then made sense why they have that arm sticking out of them, lol. My bad.
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Posted By: im4racin
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2025 at 10:35pm
I think I have a rebuild kit for that
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 7:41am
I think that I would change the oil and try and get it going again with the leaky pump. It may have major engine damage and not be worth the time and cost to replace the pump. Gasoline makes for poor lubrication on crank bearings.
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Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 8:29am
Thanks, im4racin. I'll send you a message.
You're absolutely right, Lynn Marshall. I'm making a trip to town today to get supplies for two oil changes. I'm researching and trying to plan ahead for the pump, but that will only happen after it's running well.
On the topic of the fuel pump. The service manual says it runs at 5.5-6psi. I can find many electric fuel pumps that give around that, but of course they all have a range. 3-8 psi, for example. But even pumps that have nearly the same range have different GPH ratings. One gives 6gal/hour and another gives 25gal/hour. So this leads me to a few questions. 1), What sort of GPH should I be looking for? 2), Does the 190XT G-2800 have a fuel pressure regulator to help with the fuel pump not being set at a precise PSI? 3), I would assume opting for a max pressure that is slightly high is better than one that has a very low minimum, if I'm even given that choice. But any pointers on this?
Thanks!
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Posted By: Phil48ACWC
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 8:58am
Call Steve at B&B Circuits or see below:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/356464749493?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D111001%26rkt%3D3%26mech%3D2%26algv%3D%26pmt%3D1%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sid%3DAQAKAAAAEEmQhsEdMlAXdEeFA%2BcG3O8%3D%26itm%3D356464749493%26noa%3D1%26plcampt%3D0%3A13772031011%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26brand%3DSparex%26asc%3D20160811114145%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D1%26pid%3D100667%26b%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D0%26meid%3Db0e3791ddee541dfae3ce6ac83552b01%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/356464749493?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D111001%26rkt%3D3%26mech%3D2%26algv%3D%26pmt%3D1%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sid%3DAQAKAAAAEEmQhsEdMlAXdEeFA%2BcG3O8%3D%26itm%3D356464749493%26noa%3D1%26plcampt%3D0%3A13772031011%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26brand%3DSparex%26asc%3D20160811114145%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D1%26pid%3D100667%26b%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D0%26meid%3Db0e3791ddee541dfae3ce6ac83552b01%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042
Click on above and scroll down to the 6 hole diaphragm version like yours. You could send a question to the seller to confirm it will fit your 190XT.
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 10:29am
I believe the rebuild kit for that pump is CK-4220, available from 'Then and Now Automotive' in Weymouth, MA. Very nice folks to deal with. And they can confirm for sure that it's the part number for the rebuild kit for the 190XT's pump (I'm 99.9% sure it is, but I am going from memory from a few months ago, so there's a chance I'm wrong). And if that's not the part number, they can put together a kit for yours. They list a few kits online, but have way more in-stock and all the parts make rebuild kits for just about every mechanical fuel pump. I've got three rebuild kits for mechanical fuel pumps from them.
Just make sure you get the check valves around the right way when you assemble it - I've had to re-do a few pumps that folks have tried to rebuild and foolishly put both check valves in facing the same way.
As an alternative, you can just get a cheapo $30 electric fuel pump from Amazon. But it absolutely needs to be no more than 4 psi - preferably less. Or if you do use a higher-pressure pump, you'll need to put an external regulator on that you can use to reduce it to 2-4 psi. That's what I did for my 180 gasser with the 2800 when its fuel pump went and I needed to get it going asap.
Although the manual says 5-6 psi, you have to remember that with a mechanical pump the flow decreases as the engine RPM decreases. With an electric pump, it's putting out the same flow/pressure regardless of engine RPM, and you can easily overpower your float with more than 4 psi and cause all sorts of hard-to-diagnose flooding and rich-running issues.
Whatever the case, you want to fix that diaphragm asap, as it will dump a pile of gas into your crankcase if it gets bad.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 11:48am
A 190XT needs a fuel pump that can provide 10 GPH MINIMUM. More is better. If you buy a 6 GPH pump and pull a plow, you won't pull is very far at full load and it will run out of gas. Light loads it will be fine. High HP loads and 10 GPH (or more) is required.
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Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 2:24pm
Thanks, everyone! I really do appreciate all of the help and insight. I realize I made a bad choice in plugging the hole, yet everyone has been awesome about finding solutions - and I really appreciate it!
Noted on the GPH, Doc. Thanks!
DanielW, I did call them as you suggested and they were very helpful. The nice gentleman was not in love with the AC part number from the service manual as that's "just a number they used", which makes sense.. But isn't that also kind of every model number for everything? He wanted me to confirm it was a Carter M-4220S as the service manual states, but I couldn't find any identifying info on the fuel pump itself other than the AGCO part number presumably as it has a 7 in front of the AC part number. It also has "113" or perhaps "118" below that. These numbers are stamped on a thin metal tag held on by one of the bolts. Other than those, it just says "Made in USA" and "Made in Canada" on two different parts of the body. No other numbers or letters. He didn't like the AC number, but perhaps the AGCO number will be better? I called back but had to leave a voicemail. I'll see how that progresses. I'm assuming it's not a carter pump and was replaced with the AGCO equivalent at some point before I bought it. Regardless though, thanks for the input! I appreciate the lead.
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 2:43pm
I had exactly that problem with mine now that I come to think of it: Both his reference book and the Allis service manual indicated that it came with a Carter 4220 pump, but I had no markings on my pump to confirm. I ended up just buying the 4220 kit and hoping for the best, and it was indeed correct. If I remember (feel free to remind me) I'll take some pictures of mine tonight so you can compare to yours.
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 3:06pm
I should have added: You asked why the mechanical pumps have a direct connection into the crankcase: Mechanical pumps need this, because it's a lobe on the cam (or sometimes crank, depending on the engine) that cycles the lever of the mechanical pumps to make them operate. I've rebuilt or replaced a surprising number of mechanical fuel pumps in the past few years; I suspect the new additives in gas/diesel are not too friendly with the old diaphragms. Any new pump or rebuild kit you get today will be compatible with modern fuels, so there's little/no worry of it happening again.
If you did run it with gas in the case, I wouldn't get too worried just yet. When the one on my 180 went, it dumped at least a gallon or two of fuel in. And it happened overnight: One day I baled with it and checked the oil before baling (like I always do before a day of putting it to hard work). All ok, and worked fine all day. The next day I needed to bring it across the farm to another shed to put the tedder on. Didn't check the oil, because it was only going to be run for a short period (and I'd checked it the day before). Drove North from where it was parked for a few minutes, turned right, and as soon as I turned and the sun was no longer shining/reflecting on the dash, I saw the oil pressure light was on. Goofish mistake by me to not confirm it went out after starting - but the sun shining on it prevented me from noticing it. Shut down, pulled the dipstick out, and found a very thin mixture of oil and gas right up to the top of the dipstick. I thought I'd likely pooched the bottom end or done some other significant damage. But after I drained and refilled (and replaced the pump with an electric one), it's never run better. It starts instantly now, and seems to have more power running the baler. I suspect running that gassy/oily mixture helped clean all the carbon out - just like old-timers who'd run their crankcase full of kerosene for half a minute every few years to clean out their engine. I definitely wouldn't recommend doing it, and if I'd run it under load it would almost certainly have pooched something. But if yours just ran for a little while with only a little gas in the case, I doubt you did any damage. Especially if under minimal load.
If you're not fussed about keeping things original, a low-pressure, 12V pump wired to the keyswitch and a blanking plate on the block where the mechanical pump attaches would get you going just dandy. I don't think you have to worry about GPM concerns: Even the smallest, 2 psi, rinky-dink aftermarket 12V pumps advertised for lawn tractors seem to have at least 26 GPM flow rate. And there are some on Amazon available for $16 with overnight delivery. That would be a cheap/fast way to get you going. I prefer keeping with the mechanical pumps to keep thinks stock./original, but that's primarily because I'm a bit of a nut. Not sure about the XT, but I read later that on the 180's some folks would even just bypass the pump and run the line from the tank directly into the carb with no pump: If you keep the tank at least 1/4 full and have flat land, apparently the fuel level will always be above the carb and flow steadily into it by gravity alone, so you don't even need a pump. Might be worth considering on the XT if the tank looks high enough and you have flatter land.
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Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2025 at 7:48pm
Good to know on the rebuild kit! I'll happily pay $60ish dollars for a rebuild kit with shipping and get to have the experience of rebuilding a fuel pump as opposed to only a little less money for work that is far less exciting, and keeping it original is a perk. Thanks for that info, it has been incredibly helpful.
Noted on the fuel pump design. It made more sense when I was thinking about it last night. Then I felt dumb for not knowing that, lol.
Also good to know on your experience with using far more fuel as a lubricant than I have, ha!
I did make a trip into town today and got the supplies for 3 oil changes total. I changed the oil/filter there in the field and then drove it to the barn without any issues. I also unplugged my drain hole on the fuel pump before that. I'll fix the pump and then give it another oil & filter change in the near future after a bit more running. Then I'll just have the parts for a later change once more. As far as today goes, the tractor doesn't seem to have any lasting issue, but I realize internal damage isn't always so obvious right off the bat. Perhaps I will discover something it caused another day, but for now I'll take it as a blessing and keep her chugging with a (hopefully rebuilt) fuel pump soon.
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