AC Lincoln 225 arc welder GURU,,S000..............
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=208250
Printed Date: 22 Sep 2025 at 4:03pm
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Topic: AC Lincoln 225 arc welder GURU,,S000..............
Posted By: desertjoe
Subject: AC Lincoln 225 arc welder GURU,,S000..............
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2025 at 12:35pm
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I got an OOOPS with my long time Tombstone arc welder. At one time I thought I would replace the old arc welder with a lincoln 175 mig,,,but after many spools of wire,,i really still like that old arc machine,,,!! I was doing some work on my car trailer and noticed that the insulation on both the work and ground cables coming thru the front of machine were just about frayed in to and fixing to start arcing to the metal box,,,,!! I took the panels off that gave me access to the work and ground cable connections and made new ends after cutting back the frayed cables,,,Man,,that was close and most likely "SAVED" the welder and prolly me too,,,!! Assembled the panels and gave it a test run and,,,,and,,,,you cannot hardly turn the heat selector knob in front,,,!! I did not move anything on that part of welder and can't figure why as it had worked great brfore I changed the cable ends,,,,???? Finally used a flat screwdriver and wedged behind the selector knob and got it to switch but hung up soon as I removed screwdriver,,,,?? What the hey,,,??
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Replies:
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2025 at 2:15pm
| I don’t know…..must have the panels binding it somehow. Take off or loosen the panels and see what happens? |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2025 at 3:48pm
Opted to a 240v Suitcase Inverter welder, Never again will I go AC, Cleaner, faster, better performance. Old welders had their place, are out of the game these days. Sitting here on my Miller 210 Wire Feed, another great Choice on My part.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2025 at 4:15pm
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Joe, its been a few years since i used the Buzz Box... dont remember exactly how it is made.. When you TIGHTENED the LUGS on the new cables, did that put a little TWIST in the selector switch or is frame ? Might need to loosen the bolts and reposition.. Sometimes a washer can be installed under a cover bolt and get a little extra clearance.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2025 at 4:26pm
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Joe , I've had my ac-225-s buzzbox since 1987. replaced the amp switch 10 years ago. I talked nicely to the Lincoln OFC girli and got the switch for $40. Yrah kinda pita but cheaper than what the repair guy was going to charge. I now PUSH IN the knob a bit BEFORE turning it, seems a LOT happier doing that. Thanks, YOU just reminded me I need to replace the cables, I have a complete working spare unit LESS THE CASE TIN. Seems 'someone' saw it outside, deemed it SCRAP for HER 'contractor' son.....sigh........ ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: jvin248
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2025 at 7:36pm
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. Glad to see you are repairing it. My father, using his 1950s machine shop welder would lay the cables on the ground three feet apart because all the insulation had flaked off, seeing that my brother and I bought him a new set of cables! Be safe out there, it's not the voltage but the amps that are most dangerous. . |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2025 at 9:59pm
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Well,,I fired up the Tombstone this morning and after "listening" to it run,,,I believe ole TBone and Steve are on right track as "something" mayhaps be loose inside as it is making a vibrating noise when I strike an arc then noise goes away after a bit,,,,??I know I got all the panels tight but it may be the connector on the work lead as the old lead had been bent for clearance on the back of the selector switch and I just rerouted it,,,but don't think it put the selector switch in a bind but we'll know in the morning for sure. I also recently bought a new 120/240 invertor arc but haven't given it enough practice time and I should do so and save the old timer,,,,!!!
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Posted By: JW in MO
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2025 at 4:23pm
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I haven't done this on welder leads but have on furnace igniters, which are high voltage but no amperage. I cover the wire with heat shrink tubing to repair insulation. Where I couldn't use heat shrink, I would coat cracked ceramic insulators with fingernail polish. Fingernail polish is a great insulator, I found out one below zero night out of desperation, trying to get a family heat on an oil furnace with a cracked igniter shorting out an not lighting, thank goodness there was a lady in the house with experimental product. ------------- Maximum use of available resources! |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2025 at 9:04pm
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OK,,,you guys are AW-SUM,,,,,!! The lead hold down clamp had been,,,UMmm jury rigged by previous owner and danged if I didn't copy his FU when I assembled the work lead to the back of the switch,,,,NOW,,I know better,,,!! there is one thing that is puzzling me,,I been modifying my car hauler with a Dovetail Addition and since I am more comfortable with this Tombstone I been using it in lieu of the Lincoln Mig 175 or even the new 120/220 Invertor,,,,I started noticing that several of my welds were "cracking" longwise right down the middle on the bead,, Then the next two welds would be ok,,,?? Anyone got a clue,,,?? |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2025 at 10:43pm
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Cracking welds normally mean your using a HARD ROD .... or the metal is COLD .... or you need a Pre Heat with some "special" rods....... 7018 and the 60xx rods should NOT crack..
you might try warming the weld area up to 200 degrees with a torch prior to welding... Could be the BASE metal composition is not MILD steel.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2025 at 7:23am
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Well, Steve,,I was using some 6011,,,then 6013,,still cracking so I tried 7018 ,,all in 1/8" and at 75 heat setting,,, It is not near cold yet but the size difference of the two metals was welding 1/8" to 1/4". I have a little bit left before I start the painting so I'll give the pre-heat a try this morning.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2025 at 1:24pm
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does not make much sense unless something in the BASE Metal... I use 7018 in a 3/32 rod 99% of the time.. Weld anytime is abouve 40 degrees and never need a pre heat.. Only cracking i have had is with cast iron or stainless material.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |