6080 - Injector pump, or something else?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=207871
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 4:13pm
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Topic: 6080 - Injector pump, or something else?
Posted By: Justin726
Subject: 6080 - Injector pump, or something else?
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 7:43am
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I have a 6080 that has a no-start issue. It's had a bit of history of being one that's a bit hard to start. But all of a sudden, I'm getting nothing but cranking. Doesn't seem like it's even trying to fire off. I've replaced the key switch, the two relays on the firewall at the back of the engine, and I've put in rebuilt injectors. Fuel is flowing at the petcock, to the filter, and at the back of the injector pump. Even before the injector replacement I was able to get fuel to the top of each of the lines by cracking them open....although I'm not sure how much pressure should be at these lines. I'm kind of thinking it seems weak, but not sure. I pulled the fuel "T" off the top of the pump and that check ball seems to be intact and working appropriately, and my return line doesn't seem plugged. I'm just checking to see if there's any other basic, or simple stuff, to check before I jump into replacing the injector pump. In the past, even on what I would consider pretty nice/warm days, it would need a shot or two of ether to help get it going. But once it was started, it's always ran well. From what I hear, trouble starting can point to an injector pump, but I've never seen any of the running issues that also point to the pump.
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 7:55am
| On the top cover of the inj pump is one lone electrical wire. Be careful, but try and remove the hex nut from that wire. Use WD40 and hold the wire so it can't rotate. You can twist off the stud, so you don't want to go there. With the wire removed, turn on the key and then touch the wire to the stud. You should hear the shut-off solenoid clicking. If you have a helper, they can turn the key on and off while you listen for the clicking without removing the wire. If there is no noise, either the solenoid inside the pumps lid is bad OR your wire isn't providing 12 volts of power to that stud. The engine will not run until the pump is turned on !!! You could hot wire the stud from the starter battery cable connection. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 8:14am
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Correct Doc. Interesting story about those solenoids on Roosa's. We had a few we had replaced in a drawer. A F2 combine was in and would not start sometimes. We pulled the cap and noticed the arm was what seemed like to far from the solenoid magnetic pin end. We sprung the tab to not allow it to back off so far and presto - it fired every time. We went to the 'drawer' of old solenoids and tried this and nearly half would now work.
------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Justin726
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 8:22am
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DrAllis wrote:Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:54am
| The 6000 series and the 200 ,for that matter,have a habit of restricting fuel flow at the tee shut off valve at the right hand rear of the tank. It may need cleaned. |