Auto Body Question
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20680
Printed Date: 24 Aug 2025 at 4:19am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Auto Body Question
Posted By: Jamie (KY)
Subject: Auto Body Question
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 5:50pm
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I have a hood that needs some TLC. The metal is all there and in great shape but it's got waves all the way down it. It's not wrinkled or anything, just wavy. I've considered just taking it to the body shop and having them straighten it out, but figured I'd spend about as much there as I would if I just bought the tool to fix it myself. Then I'd have it to work on other projects with to boot.
What about an english wheel with the flat wheel on top and bottom? Then I'd be able to use the curved wheels to rework the curves in the hood. I'm thinking that the old body hammer and dolly would be a little underkill and would still not be straight.
I may be way off base with my thinking and would like a little input from people that do it all the time.
Any thoughts appreciated! ------------- Just when I thought I was finishing my "honey-do-list", she turned the page!!! |
Replies:
Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 5:53pm
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Are you talking about a tractor hood?JP |
Posted By: Jamie (KY)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 5:57pm
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Yeah. A tractor hood from D14. ------------- Just when I thought I was finishing my "honey-do-list", she turned the page!!! |
Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 6:02pm
| At least once a week folks call and ask the same type of question, and I give the same answer; hold it up to the phone and then I can give you a better idea on price. Can you post a pic of your hood? Or hold it close to your keyboard? |
Posted By: Jamie (KY)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 6:08pm
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I'm not wanting a price to get it fixed, just what kinda tool would be good for just getting the flat places flat again. I've considered laying it on the concrete floor and tapping it on the inside with a flat body hammer. I know that will be frowned upon. ------------- Just when I thought I was finishing my "honey-do-list", she turned the page!!! |
Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 6:16pm
| Jamie, it more than likely is stretched a little. A D14 hood wasn't made perfect the best I can tell. If it stretched then you can pound on it all you want and it will just get worse. If it is just wavy it has probaly always been that way and about the best way to fix it is to "skim" it with a thin coat of bondo and block it down nice and straight and only you know.JP |
Posted By: David Gibson (OH)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 6:17pm
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I would think that unless you have experience with the English wheel or hammer & dolly there is a good chance you would just end up messing the hood up more. ------------- David Gibson http://www.darkecountysteam.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.darkecountysteam.com 1956 WD45 |
Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 6:53pm
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Jamie (KY) wrote:Posted By: Jamie (KY)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 7:31pm
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Pics won't help. I've taken some before I started the thread and they don't show what I'm talking about. I may have to just go with the bondo/blocking deal to get what I'm looking for. I have some experience with that.
Thanks guys. ------------- Just when I thought I was finishing my "honey-do-list", she turned the page!!! |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 9:04pm
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You might watch the "Power Block" on Spike TV Saturday and Sunday mornings. Seems like I've seen some of the guys on there talk about "shrinking" hammers for dent repair. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: 190Allis
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2010 at 9:46pm
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If you dont have any or limited experience with repairing sheetmetal I would suggest that you grind the paint off and use body filler to repair the damage. If you start beating you most likely with end up with more hood than you want. An engilsh wheel is not the tool you should consider to use for repair. Like others before my post it is impossible to get advise without seeing a photo of the damage. Since the damage may not show in a photo I suspect that using body filler is your best bet. ------------- 180, 190, 190XT, WD45 and growning. So many projects never enough time. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 6:25am
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Both my D-14s have some 'used' appearance to them.LOL.I like them that way.If this is a show tractor, then either buy a new one,make a new one or use short strand F/G and block it out.It'll either take money or time to make the perfect hood.
Hmm...once you do ,make a mold from it and make F/G 'replicas'.Wonder if there's money in them??
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 7:10am
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Before you take a grinder to it, as some suggest, do this: Clean your panel with wax/grease remover, block sand with a long block and 80 grit sandpaper. Use the paint on the panel as an indicator. Then you can actually see what you have to deal with. If the old paint featheredges cleanly . 80 grit scratchs are the perfect degee of roughness for body filler to adhere to.. Rougher is not better. Any way ,when your panel is blocked , your hi and low spots will be apparent, post a pic, and go from there.
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 8:32am
| Off dolly works to shrink metal. (holding the dolly at the edge of the stretched metal and pounding on the stretched area) I have had very good luck on edges shrinking it back but not out in the center or away from the edge of a larger area. |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 9:46am
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around here shrinking metal is nothing more than knocking a dent in it and filling with medium weight bondo. on hoods i like using primer to fill in if its not to deep or large works real well on rust pits and doesnt crack as bad on a large always flexing hood ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: David (in Mi.)
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 5:49pm
| Like they are all saying, unless you are good with sheet metal do not hammer on it, that usually streches the metal. The best way to shrink metal is to heat it in a circle and work you way out, let it cool all by itself, and it will get smaller. Be careful, cause you will probably will worp the metal also. |
Posted By: Kipn
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 6:08pm
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My thoughts are with David (inMI). Bondo on a hood will more than likely crack because of the flexability of the hood. ------------- 1961 H3 |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2010 at 8:22pm
| I'm with Gary on this. If it won't show in a photo it isn't that bad. Take a long block with eighty grit and see what ya have. Post a picture or two as you go so we can give you some advice as needed. |