Farm Equipment - D17 throttle

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D17 throttle

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206747
Printed Date: 19 May 2025 at 4:09am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: D17 throttle

Posted By: Steve A
Subject: D17 throttle
Date Posted: 16 May 2025 at 8:03pm

New to me D17 Series 1, had it about 2 weeks: Runs smoothly, idles fine, but seems like it goes from a moderate fast idle right to throttled up and wound out with little in between. Not much increase for first 2/3 of the movement down of the lever then she's off to the races with the governor kicking in. That's me mentally comparing it to my WD, WD-45, 170 and 175--all gasoline engines. I looked at the linkages, governor, springs and it all seems in order. Normal for a D17? I did find an old post of Dr. Allis that said the have a stiff spring and quick response.

Replies:

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 May 2025 at 6:42am

A D-17 governor has a stiffer internal spring so the engine will run faster. Like 2000 RPM versus 1700 RPM as a WD/WD45 does. With the engine OFF, pull the hand throttle to the wide open position. Remove the small cotter pin from the governor to carburetor link rod at the vertical governor arm directly behind the generator. Pull the link rod out of the vertical governor arm hole. The vertical governor arm should not move. If it moves to the rear, put a bend in the middle of the link rod downward to make the link rod shorter enough to slip back into the vertical arm hole. Ideally, I like the link rod to be 1/16" shorter than needed. This (if done correctly) has now synchronized the governor weights to the carburetor throttle butterfly plate. THERE ARE ZERO SPRINGS CONNECTED TO ANY OF THIS GOVERNOR LINKAGE!!! REMOVE THEM IF THERE ARE ANY !!!! There are 4 other things that can make a governor not work right: #1. make absolutely sure the link rods cotter pin at the carburetor end is trimmed short and wrapped tight so it cannot interfere with linkage movement. You can't believe how many problems I've found there over the years from the cotter pin getting caught in the movement of the linkage. #2. In the same area, the throttle shaft arm on the carb has to be tight on the shaft and not loose. This throws everything off if it isn't tight on the carb throttle shaft. #3. There can be no binding or catching of the governor arm to carb linkage of any kind. I have seen carburetor throttle shafts that were binding in the carb, which will NOT work. Everything must be free to move 100% thru their stroke. #4. The vertical governor arm (when the link rod is disconnected from it) must NOT move forward or backwards easily, not against the governor spring tension. If the arm is loose, the internal retaining pin has come loose and this throws everything off in adjustment.

Posted By: Steve A
Date Posted: 17 May 2025 at 10:32am

Thanks once again Dr. !! That is information I needed. I'll go down that list adjusting and rechecking. I already repositioned the cable from the distributor to the tach, as it was rubbing on the linkage.

Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 18 May 2025 at 10:18am

That is how my D-17 S-2 acted when the governor weights blew up.

I was a few miles from home but was able to nurse it back with the throttle at it's lowest position.

' certainly hope this is not your problem!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 May 2025 at 11:16am

Usually, failed/exploded governor weights let the engine run away just as soon as you move the throttle much off of a dead slow idle. Very little movement of the hand lever. He has not described it as that way, as I read his explanation.

Posted By: Steve A
Date Posted: 18 May 2025 at 5:27pm

I'm still working on it; pretty convinced it must be the linkage. You can pull the lever 2/3 to 3/4 without gaining a lot of RPM. Then it feels like a "sticking point" or stiff movement. Past that you get a major increase in RPM. Goes back down easily, idles along fine. Discovered a small manifold leak on exhaust of first cylinder. Going to get a new manifold for it tomorrow and see if that has any effect

Posted By: Steve A
Date Posted: 18 May 2025 at 7:05pm

And yes Brian, the governor weights were my first thought too. I always think of the worst case right off the bat. I believe I just found it: the arm from the governor which goes across the front of the engine had a sticky spot to it. Would move, hang up, and then move again once past that point. Sprayed it with PB Blaster and that seems to have cured it. Now that I've written this it will probably show up some other place in the mechanism.
Thanks again!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 May 2025 at 8:43pm

Make sure that da$$ cotter pin at the carburetor isn't catching !!!