CA erratic spark
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206666
Printed Date: 26 Jun 2025 at 11:42pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: CA erratic spark
Posted By: dfwallis
Subject: CA erratic spark
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 3:33pm
Analyzing spark via a gtc505 analyzer. All 4 cylinders look horrible. Cylinder 1 and 4 have the best signals but 2 and 3 are spiking randomly. All have a peak voltage of around 6kv, but 2 and 3 have extra random spikes to 9kv. Suspect random short circuit through cap or wires or other...all is new. My brother says it behaved the same in the 80s. It is running better with new venturi in carb, corrected spark plug gaps. I think to get higher spikes, the dwell time must randomly increase?? Does not seem to be any side to side distributor play, but there is up and down (in/out) play. Suggestions?
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 3:36pm
i always suspect a weak condenser or coil when i have problems..
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 3:52pm
Last electrical tune-up was in the 80's? I'd throw in new points, condenser, wires, cap and rotor in it. And go from there if still problematic. I'm sure your time is worth more than the cost of these items.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 4:18pm
Distributor shaft float? Yep, I’ve seen that a dozen times on old CA tractors. That’s your gremlin right there. New cap, new wires won’t fix it till you take out the slack. Re-bush or swap that dizzy
------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 4:48pm
Stanr...Those are all new...completeish rebuild...from the waveforms, I think the coil is fine. I think more likely erratic points...the analyzer also gets confused with lots of extra pulses, declaring rpm 5000 instead of 1040 momentarily...cylinder 2 and 3 mostly.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 4:59pm
dfwallis wrote:
Analyzing spark via a gtc505 analyzer. |
I am not familiar with that analyzer, is it an actual oscilloscope?
dfwallis wrote:
All 4 cylinders look horrible. |
Please describe "horrible". Is this at idle?
dfwallis wrote:
Cylinder 1 and 4 have the best signals but 2 and 3 are spiking randomly. All have a peak voltage of around 6kv, but 2 and 3 have extra random spikes to 9kv. |
Do you mean that there are additional spikes other than the one, correct voltage spike?
When the points open, the electro-magnetic field in the coil collapses; the resulting 'flyback effect' induces a voltage in the secondary windings of the coil. This voltage increases until the spark is able to jump the gap. It is not unusual to have variations in the firing voltage as an engine runs; I would not be alarmed seeing 6-9kV ranges.
dfwallis wrote:
... I think to get higher spikes, the dwell time must randomly increase?? ... | No. The required firing voltage was higher on that particular event. In order to fire at all, the dwell had to be at least 'adequate'.
The first two things I would want to know is what each cylinder has for compression, and next would be to hook up a vacuum gauge and see what that looks like.
Also, do you have any way to take analyzer readings under load? That would be most interesting.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 5:04pm
dfwallis wrote:
Stanr...Those are all new...completeish rebuild...from the waveforms, I think the coil is fine. I think more likely erratic points...the analyzer also gets confused with lots of extra pulses, declaring rpm 5000 instead of 1040 momentarily...cylinder 2 and 3 mostly. | You posted this while I was composing my previous answer.
Your points might be bouncing around, also poor grounding can give fits. The breaker plate needs to be well-grounded to the outside.
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 5:22pm
Les Kerf wrote:
dfwallis wrote:
Analyzing spark via a gtc505 analyzer. |
I am not familiar with that analyzer, is it an actual oscilloscope?
dfwallis wrote:
All 4 cylinders look horrible. |
Please describe "horrible". Is this at idle?
All speeds.
dfwallis wrote:
Cylinder 1 and 4 have the best signals but 2 and 3 are spiking randomly. All have a peak voltage of around 6kv, but 2 and 3 have extra random spikes to 9kv. |
Do you mean that there are additional spikes other than the one, correct voltage spike?
I suspect these are additional spikes because the analyzer thinks the rpm jumps from 1040 to 5000.
When the points open, the electro-magnetic field in the coil collapses; the resulting 'flyback effect' induces a voltage in the secondary windings of the coil. This voltage increases until the spark is able to jump the gap. It is not unusual to have variations in the firing voltage as an engine runs; I would not be alarmed seeing 6-9kV ranges.
Yes, I have a masters in electronics.
dfwallis wrote:
... I think to get higher spikes, the dwell time must randomly increase?? ... | No. The required firing voltage was higher on that particular event. In order to fire at all, the dwell had to be at least 'adequate'.
The first two things I would want to know is what each cylinder has for compression, and next would be to hook up a vacuum gauge and see what that looks like.
Also, do you have any way to take analyzer readings under load? That would be most interesting.
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Cylinder 1 and 4 do not experience the additional spikes to 9k or more at all. Gtc505 is a scope of sorts. I have images but too painful to edit and upload on android.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 8:43pm
dfwallis wrote:
... Does not seem to be any side to side distributor play, but there is up and down (in/out) play... |
jaybmiller wrote:
Distributor shaft float? Yep, I’ve seen that a dozen times on old CA
tractors. That’s your gremlin right there. New cap, new wires won’t fix
it till you take out the slack. Re-bush or swap that dizzy |
After ponderizing about this for a while I believe jaybmiller is right. The vertical play in the distributor shaft can make the points chatter about due to the spiral gears causing the shaft to advance and return rapidly.
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Posted By: Trinity45
Date Posted: 11 May 2025 at 9:26pm
I had problems with my B, thought it was points, then change the coil and the cap, lastly replaced the condenser and that fixed my problem.
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Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 12 May 2025 at 4:43am
Check the insulator block that carries the points wire through the side of the distributor for cracks, and to see if the points wire has one ear grounding the points at that point...
------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 12 May 2025 at 7:29am
DiyDave wrote:
Check the insulator block that carries the points wire through the side of the distributor for cracks, and to see if the points wire has one ear grounding the points at that point... |
I will check...there was a grounding issue that I fixed...got shocked adjusting timing while running, touching the housing, but did not change the behavior when I fixed the grounding (paint).
I did check that the points plate is grounded.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 12 May 2025 at 8:54am
What are the run symptoms from this? Spluttering/missing randomly?
I've not scoped the signal but believe I'm having a similar issue on the redneck B & (timing "fluttering" all over the place due to slack in it's ignition timing chain setup, needs a new bit of chain. So could be caused by the lash in your distributor in your case
Also, if the condenser is new new & not NOS then perhaps switch back to the previous one/a known good one. Modern parts are/were trash last I checked.
------------- Stuck Farmer
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 12 May 2025 at 9:24am
Sorry for posting inside the quote...android ui sucks
ekjdm14 wrote:
What are the run symptoms from this? Spluttering/missing
Runs perfect for short bursts, then random misfires. Also seems to be some sort of cyclical change to timing once every few seconds...engine slows slightly similar to what occurs when you retard timing, then goes back to normal. This is only noticeable if you set timing to extra retard to begin with.
I've not scoped the signal but believe I'm having a similar issue on the redneck B & (timing "fluttering" all over the place due to slack in it's ignition timing chain setup, needs a new bit of chain. So could be caused by the lash in your distributor in your case
Also, if the condenser is new new & not NOS then perhaps switch back to the previous one/a known good one. Modern parts are/were trash last I checked.
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------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 12 May 2025 at 9:55am
Not a problem, posting from a 'phone must be a real PITA! This is kinda like mine now I think about it, acts like it was going to clear up and then back to misbehaving. thought I was losing fuel initially but pretty sure it's timing slop.
Would certainly attend to the distributor on your tractor, especially as Jay has experience of this being a cause.
------------- Stuck Farmer
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Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 12 May 2025 at 2:42pm
I would check the play or displacement in the distributor shaft, possibly worn main shaft bushings? ~ Orangeman
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 13 May 2025 at 1:54pm
I took the distributor apart and gave it a thorough cleaning. I didn't have a rebushing kit so stopped there. There is some marginal improvement...the centrifugal mechanism was highly gunked up, but only improved the advance/retard process...cylinder 2 and 3 waveforms are also slightly improved, but could partially be from changing point gap from 22 to 20...one manual says 22, one says 20...I'm leaning towards getting one from bnb while I work on other stuff...I had made a slow moving vehicle bracket, but I'll have to mod it...too close to the rockshaft mounted top link bracket when raised...I swear I measured it:(
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 10:02am
Sent the distributor to B&B. Sun 504 tests showed the misfire and erratic dwell issues and mods were made and its now on its way back home. It appears the main problem was worn/pitted CAM/lobes (not end play). Replaced and tested with good spark all the way to 3200RPM (~where points float started). It may have worn in part due to lack of lubrication. The lubrication "wick" was there, but not consistently working, so that was also fixed. It's doubtful anybody ever lubricated it in 72 years.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2025 at 3:49pm
very interesting about the cam !!!.......... and have heard many say that STEVE does excellent work !
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: CA13414
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 6:54am
Very interesting with everything you’ve done!
The trouble I’ve had with our CA is very much the same. Cylinders 2 and 3 quit working after the engine warms up. This was at an idle and full throttle. 2 was worse than 3, and there is no spark on #2 to the fingertip when touching the wire, my crude way vs your analyzer!! :-)
In sequence, I replaced the spark plugs first, then wires, distributor, cap, rotor, and the other day the magneto coil and condenser.
Replacing the magneto coil and condenser did the trick…… “thus far!!” Since it happened at an idle and full RPM didn’t seam to be floating and getting hot and cooling down was clearly causing the problem. My money was on the condenser but I can not explain why #2 and to a lesser extent #3 and not #1 or #4!?
I’m putting our little “Orange Dude” to work next weekend. That’ll be the test!
Dan
------------- Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 10:51am
CA13414 wrote:
Very interesting with everything you’ve done!
The trouble I’ve had with our CA is very much the same. Cylinders 2 and 3 quit working after the engine warms up. This was at an idle and full throttle. 2 was worse than 3, and there is no spark on #2 to the fingertip when touching the wire, my crude way vs your analyzer!! :-)
In sequence, I replaced the spark plugs first, then wires, distributor, cap, rotor, and the other day the magneto coil and condenser.
Replacing the magneto coil and condenser did the trick…… “thus far!!” Since it happened at an idle and full RPM didn’t seam to be floating and getting hot and cooling down was clearly causing the problem. My money was on the condenser but I can not explain why #2 and to a lesser extent #3 and not #1 or #4!?
I’m putting our little “Orange Dude” to work next weekend. That’ll be the test!
Dan |
I just hope it's fixed. It's hard for me to imagine a CAM wear pattern happening that would give those results, unless it was pretty severely lop-sided. I polished up the CAM to try to improve it (pitting), but I did not check for roundness. When I set the points, I just picked one lobe and did not check if it had the same gap on other lobes. I'll try to be more thorough if there's a next time.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 2:05pm
dfwallis wrote:
.... It's hard for me to imagine a CAM wear pattern happening that would give those results... | I can.
It's called "bounce". The keyboards we use to type these messages have a built-in delay system known as "de-bounce" to help prevent multiple re-strikes; our mechanical distributor cam lobes have no such thing. Any roughness at the time of opening the points can easily cause this.
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 2:54pm
For those who were curious about this particular Distributor, here's the poop. It's very rare I change a cam. When I first ran that Distributor out of the box, the dwell was all over the place. First thing you think of is main shaft bushing. Not this time. Main shaft spun nice n' true. Up n' down, side to side all in spec. Looked good in the 504 too. Point Contacts were worn funny with a matching rub block which led me to a possible cam problem. Inspected the cam and one lobe looked almost round toward the middle. Installed a new NOS cam, ran it on the 504 again (same points) and the dwell straightened out quite a bit, but the misfire still was there. Put a new set of my points and condenser and ran it again. Misfire gone, dwell perfect, and full spark to all plugs. The ole' 504 said she was good ta' go! Should run pretty nice now. Let us know how she runs Gary. Steve@B&B
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 3:50pm
Steve in NJ wrote:
For those who were curious about this particular Distributor, here's the poop. It's very rare I change a cam. When I first ran that Distributor out of the box, the dwell was all over the place. First thing you think of is main shaft bushing. Not this time. Main shaft spun nice n' true. Up n' down, side to side all in spec. Looked good in the 504 too. Point Contacts were worn funny with a matching rub block which led me to a possible cam problem. Inspected the cam and one lobe looked almost round toward the middle. Installed a new NOS cam, ran it on the 504 again (same points) and the dwell straightened out quite a bit, but the misfire still was there. Put a new set of my points and condenser and ran it again. Misfire gone, dwell perfect, and full spark to all plugs. The ole' 504 said she was good ta' go! Should run pretty nice now. Let us know how she runs Gary. Steve@B&B
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Thanks, Steve! Kinda strange there was points wear. They were brand new and the engine probably hasn't run more than 4 hours since rebuild. I guess maybe they really WERE crappy quality.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 8:30pm
Steve in NJ wrote:
For those who were curious about this particular Distributor, here's the poop. It's very rare I change a cam. When I first ran that Distributor out of the box, the dwell was all over the place. First thing you think of is main shaft bushing. Not this time. Main shaft spun nice n' true. Up n' down, side to side all in spec. Looked good in the 504 too. Point Contacts were worn funny with a matching rub block which led me to a possible cam problem. Inspected the cam and one lobe looked almost round toward the middle. Installed a new NOS cam, ran it on the 504 again (same points) and the dwell straightened out quite a bit, but the misfire still was there. Put a new set of my points and condenser and ran it again. Misfire gone, dwell perfect, and full spark to all plugs. The ole' 504 said she was good ta' go! Should run pretty nice now. Let us know how she runs Gary. Steve@B&B
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And that's the difference between having the proper test equipment and merely stabbing around guessing! 
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 8:37pm
Les Kerf wrote:
Steve in NJ wrote:
For those who were curious about this particular Distributor, here's the poop.(snip) Steve@B&B
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And that's the difference between having the proper test equipment and merely stabbing around guessing!  |
Yeah, I may get me one of those...only about $4k...but I may never need one again at my age...:(
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 9:25pm
Should I get one of those super duper coils? I see a 40kv, a 55kv, and a 60kv option. Does that risk burning the points/plugs faster?
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 10:27pm
Thanks for following up and letting us know what the issue was, and thanks to Steve for even more details. This is why this forum is great.
------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 11:04pm
dfwallis wrote:
Should I get one of those super duper coils? I see a 40kv, a 55kv, and a 60kv option. Does that risk burning the points/plugs faster? | Complete waste of money. No, it won't hurt anything other than your bank account.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 11:11pm
dfwallis wrote:
...Yeah, I may get me one of those...only about $4k...but I may never need one again at my age...:( |
My last job before retiring was in the electronics engineering department at Encoder Products Company doing R&D work; we had lots of really cool test equipment that I sometimes wish I still had access to, but my pockets aren't deep enough and it is difficult to justify for a one-time use 
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Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2025 at 6:18am
Thanks for the explanation Steve B !!
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2025 at 10:40am
No problem! I know a lot of us here are like me. Wondering what took place with stuff that doesn't work right and what the correction was. Sometimes we don't always hear the outcome of an issue. Makes ya wanna' know in case that particular issue happens to you. I've been doing this type of work for over 50 years, and every once in a while you come across something goofy and you say to yourself "what the h*ll?? Of all the Distributors I've done over the years, I've only changed a few cam assys. A couple were in Automobiles due to higher rpm ranges. Les is right. You don't need a 40K volt Coil. The standard Coils work fine unless you want to put one in. Not neccessary... BTW, I think the main reason why the one lobe wore out was lack of lubricant. The cam was dry as a bone, and the wick was there for the ride. Wasn't even touching the cam.
Steve@B&B
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 1:18pm
Well, there doesn't seem to be any change in behavior. The gtc505 waveforms are much more consistent and with improved characteristics, but the misfire is still there exactly the same. Timing light on cylinder 1 is very clearly missing it's going about 3 pops then misses. It could be that the voltage is a little below the timing light minimum, but I see misses on th gtc 505 also, just not as glaring as the timing light...timing light on 2 and 4 is much more consistent. Changed plug wire, new cap, bnb installed new points and condenser. I'll try a different rotor next, then see if I can scrounge up another coil. The timing mark was also bouncing around quite a lot, completely out of the viewing window.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 2:04pm
Changed plug wires, coil to 72 yo original, rotor to possibly original, no difference...timing light agrees with gtc505...cylinder 3 is reading 3000+ rpm at 920rpm on other cylinders...timing light cylinder 3 is flashing 3 times faster than other cylinders. Sneak path somewhere? Cylinder 1 still shows clear dropouts, but when flashing is at correct rate per 2 and 4.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 2:20pm
OK, solved one problem, the coil ht wire is inducing voltage on the plug wires/jacket and confusing the instruments...I'll completely isolate the wires and try again
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 3:55pm
thats an odd one all right... since STEVE rebuilt the distributor you got a 99.999% chance that it is NOT the problem.. That dont leave much to look at but coil , plugs, wires and the motor itself !
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 7:12pm
Have you tried running it in the dark? I had a WD45 that looked almost like fireworks in the dark.
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 8:30pm
WF owner wrote:
Have you tried running it in the dark? I had a WD45 that looked almost like fireworks in the dark. |
Worth a try...I ran out of gas, I'll resume tomorrow...does seem like it's arcing somewhere it shouldn't...I found the original dust cap wasn't sitting quite flat, but I think the rotor rides far above and wouldn't be rubbing on it. But I cleaned it up and will see if any effect.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Wispitfiremike
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 8:48pm
Is it possible you have a bad ground somewhere? Or a wire grounding from vibration? If tests ok but when on running engine its different sure seems possible.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 8:59pm
WF owner wrote:
Have you tried running it in the dark? I had a WD45 that looked almost like fireworks in the dark. | Great idea! 
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 10:37pm
i allways check more than one lobe with the feeler gauge , that will catch a wore lobe
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2025 at 11:59am
Interestingly, the timing light dropouts have all but stopped. Maybe the distributor cap simply was not sitting level enough. I improved the crunchy dust cap gasket. I'll look at that a bit more. It's still missing some. And every plug wire that runs close to the coil ht wire flashes the timing light much faster...I tried adding a rubber hose on the coil wire but didn't seem to dampen it much. Harder to diagnose with unreliable test equipment behavior:(
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2025 at 12:49pm
My experience with an engine that starts and runs for a few minutes and then starts to miss is a bad coil. When this happens, feel the coil and if it is very hot, it is a bad coil.
------------- Jack of all trades, master of none
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2025 at 2:38pm
DonBC wrote:
My experience with an engine that starts and runs for a few minutes and then starts to miss is a bad coil. When this happens, feel the coil and if it is very hot, it is a bad coil. |
It's immediate, no delay. Swapped coil with no difference in behavior. I've now swapped everything but dust cap and plug wires. I did find an old make your own plug set and made a new ht coil wire. Did not produce a noticeable difference in behavior. I did try a few plug wire switches from the H, but may not have been the right cylinders. I did ohm all the wires and checked for intermittent connections but they all tested ok...not a good test for hvhf tho. Taking a break to work some other cleanup items. The plug wires are brand new, i meant i didn't get another brand new set.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2025 at 5:46pm
Just mowed another 2 ac field. It doesn't noticeably miss a lick when under load and at operating temp it only misses every now and then when not under load, several good seconds, roughly 1 miss. It may be a little improved from yesterday.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 7:21am
Inspected for arcing in the dark. Did not see anything.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 7:58am
it only misses every now and then when not under load
DFW... you may skip a beat when you get to be 75 years old also... ... I have seen that on more than one tractor... Have wondered if its electrical or gas flow thru carb.. Not really "common", but many have a similar effect...
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 1:22pm
dfwallis wrote:
... only misses every now and then when not under load, several good seconds, roughly 1 miss... | Just for grins, try opening up the spark plug gap a whole bunch, like maybe double the normal amount. At some point this will likely cause a miss while under load, but it just may smooth out the no-load situation.
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 8:30pm
Les Kerf wrote:
dfwallis wrote:
... only misses every now and then when not under load, several good seconds, roughly 1 miss... | Just for grins, try opening up the spark plug gap a whole bunch, like maybe double the normal amount. At some point this will likely cause a miss while under load, but it just may smooth out the no-load situation.
|
I might try it. The gap recommended is from a time when octane was in the mid 70s and without alcohol...
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 8:18am
dfwallis wrote:
...
I might try it. The gap recommended is from a time when octane was in the mid 70s and without alcohol... |
These engines have a rather primitive combustion chamber; the spark plug location is way off to the side, the siamese intake ports will deliver different swirl patterns in all four cylinders, the squish patterns are haphazard, etc.
Under load, when the air-fuel charge is approaching maximum density, there will be ample mixture present inside the spark plug gap where (obviously) the flame kernel is initiated and then spreads smoothly (we hope) across the combustion chamber.
Under no-load conditions (even at high idle) the air-fuel density is significantly less which results in much less mixture being available at that spark plug hanging out way over there in the far corner of the chamber; if this mixture inside the gap happens to be too lean at the instant of sparking then a misfire is the result.
A wider spark plug gap increases the probability of having adequate fuel being present at the instant of sparking; it also increases the voltage required to initiate the spark. At low compression pressures this is not a problem, but it can be a problem at higher pressures.
At low idle speeds the compression pressures are quite low due to the throttle butterfly being nearly shut; the idle circuit in the carburetor throws in excess fuel in order to allow enough fuel for reliable ignition (idling results in very poor fuel economy).
Under load at wider throttle opening there is ample mass airflow to provide a strong vacuum signal to pull in adequate fuel through the main fuel circuit. Since you are seeing smooth running under load it tells us that you have sufficient fuel and good spark energy for the conditions.
Misfiring at no-load high idle may be a sign of inadequate fuel; the butterfly isn't shut but is open just far enough that the idle circuit is probably not delivering much (if any) fuel, yet isn't open enough to allow the mass airflow needed to pull enough fuel for steady ignition.
If a wider plug gap helps the no-load condition it may be a clue as to what is happening.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 8:54am
that is a great explaination Les ...... I have SEEN it happen, but never thought of WHY... Engine design / combustion chamber size / air flow velocity is probably the answer.. THANKS !
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 9:47am
Changed to .041 and then to .055. If there was a difference in behavior it was too subtle for me to detect at either setting...although at .055, it did have very slightly less stable slow idle.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 2:35pm
dfwallis wrote:
Changed to .041 and then to .055. If there was a difference in behavior it was too subtle for me to detect at either setting...although at .055, it did have very slightly less stable slow idle. | I think we have beat the ignition system plumb to death  At this point I would contrive some way of hooking up a vacuum gauge to see what it says under your operating conditions.
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 3:41pm
May have to wait until the next trip. I've cleaned up several items including the left side final drive oil pan and the sealant needs 72 hours to cure. I did also find a tiny leak at the carburetor main jet, but the fix is a kludge due to broken jet driver slots...don't have that small of an easy out. If the kludge helps (or even if not), I may either send the carburetor out for rebuild or break down and get the Zenith. Running out of things to change...
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 10:43am
steve(ill) wrote:
...... I have SEEN it happen, but never thought of WHY... Engine design / combustion chamber size / air flow velocity is probably the answer.. THANKS ! | If ever there were an engine design just begging for an MSD-CDI ignition it is our beloved AC's 
The triple-strike capacitor discharge can hide a multitude of sins inside that lousy combustion chamber; it is also by far the most expensive solution
An MSD setup firing some iridium tipped spark plugs would likely last much longer than I will be able to drive the tractor.
Edit: This assumes proper carburetor function
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Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 10:51am
Les,is this the same as a pertronix ignition? Thanks
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 1:22pm
ACinSC wrote:
Les,is this the same as a pertronix ignition? Thanks | No. The Pertronix is simply a solid-state triggering device that does nothing but replace the original breaker points and condenser. They are available in both 6 Volt and 12 Volt versions, and can use the original coil, wires, and plugs (although Pertronix recommends using resistor wires/plugs).
The advantage of Pertronix is that you do not need to do periodic maintenance on the points, and performance does not deteriorate gradually like happens with points. If it fails, it tends to fail suddenly and all at once, and the points can be quickly and easily replaced if need be. Pertronix units have a pretty good reputation for reliability; I currently have one running in my Model C.
Since it uses the same coil as the original breaker points, the ignition energy is no greater, and no less than, that which is delivered by the breaker point triggering.
The MSD is a whole 'nuther animal.
It uses Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) whereby a special module charges a capacitor up to maybe 400 Volts, and then discharges the capacitor through a special coil. This results in a spark that has a VERY fast rise time and is well-known for its ability to fire a fouled spark plug.
The MSD system produces three separate spark events in rapid succession, the theory being that if the first one doesn't light the fire then maybe the next two will. Better late than never. Due to the speeds involved, most MSD's only produce one spark at high RPM, say, above 4000 RPM. But then our tractors never come close that speed.
There are CDI ignitions that are not MSD and only provide one spark per event. CDI is the main reason why your modern chain saws start so very much easier than the old magneto ignition McCulloch saws I grew up with.
The MSD unit still requires something in the distributor to trigger it; this can actually be done with the original breaker points (which will now last practically forever) or I believe even a Pertronix can be used.
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 2:10pm
I have taken a video of dwell time %. Essentially every large spike in the dwell time is an engine miss. I'll upload next week. My nephew left me a little more work than planned. Also had to fix the brush hog pto shaft for my brother. Running out of time for this trip.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 3:24pm
dfwallis wrote:
I have taken a video of dwell time %. Essentially every large spike in the dwell time is an engine miss. I'll upload next week. My nephew left me a little more work than planned. Also had to fix the brush hog pto shaft for my brother. Running out of time for this trip. | I am curious to see the video. Meanwhile, can you describe the aberration? Is this 'large spike in the dwell time' being measured on the primary (low voltage) side?
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Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 3:27pm
Thanks for the explanation Les.
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Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 5:32pm
Per the user manual it is the coil ht. I'll see if it has a low voltage option...I might need the accessory kit for that. I think i got the missed fields all mowed. I may have some more time tomorrow. I usually spend the last day of the trip putting things back in their place but not as much to do this time. It also has a spark burn time test.
------------- 1952 CA13092
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 9:28pm
dfwallis wrote:
Per the user manual it is the coil ht. I'll see if it has a low voltage option... | Ahhh... generally when I think of 'dwell' it is in reference to the amount of time (actually rotational degrees) that the points are closed; in which case if there was a double dwell period it would mean that the points didn't open that time around.
I would be greatly curious to see whether that anomaly occurred at the exact moment when a blip in the vacuum signal happened.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 9:29pm
ACinSC wrote:
Thanks for the explanation Les. | You are most welcome! 
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