8050 engine swap
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206400
Printed Date: 02 May 2025 at 10:11am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 8050 engine swap
Posted By: 4oranges
Subject: 8050 engine swap
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 9:45pm
Im swapping a 670T from a L3 into my 8050. It's a long story but it needs a engine. Wondering if it's worth it to swap water pumps and put the intercooler on the new motor or am I better off just dropping it in as it sits?
Also where does everyone get their torque limiter discs? I put one in here 1000 hours ago and the springs were busted out when I split it to do the motor swap. Thanks!
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Replies:
Posted By: Acguywill
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 10:19pm
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Don't know anything about the swap but don't use ones from a&i they are junk. Had to split a tractor after one cracked out after less than 600 hrs. A lot of extra work to save a couple bucks.
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 7:20am
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If the combine engine is set at the stock horsepower, it won't have the power of a stock 8050 engine. Does the combine engine have the Bosch or Rossamaster pump? I would use the tractor pump, plus the intercooler.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 8:09am
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If you're needing performance of 8050 put cooler on it. I couldn't go to all that trouble switching things without doing it right.
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Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 8:31am
What is the cost of fixing what you have vs the ‘unknown’ of what was not designed to be there?
Difficult to ‘put a price tag on aggravation’ but it is in there somewhere.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Posted By: 4oranges
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 1:22pm
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It is not an issue of cost it's an issue of time. I thought the tractor needed a head gasket turns out it had far more wrong. Got a good combine motor and performance data on those is limited so I wasn't sure how it would stack up compared to the 670i that was in the 8050. I had planned originally on swapping the water pump and intercooler possibly even the injection pump but I'm just starting to get to that part of the project.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 2:14pm
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I'd throw the tractor parts on the combine engine. However, I don't like m100 Ambach fuel systems. If that pump has many hours on it I'd be sure to send it out for a rebuild. It may be the cause of trouble for the original engine. The L probably has the Roosa fuel system but the pump needs set up for a tractor. Set it to 7060 specs. The combine engine is lower HP but could be increased with no down side if cooler etc were added. You may have issues with the oil pan and pump. I'm no authority on this. Dr allis or Lynn Marshall would have better info.
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Posted By: 4oranges
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 6:36pm
The combine has the rosa system on it. I had planned to get it set to 7060 specs if I left it on. Planning on swapping everything over to the new engine but just wasn't sure if I needed to swap the injection pump (long time since a rebuild) and the turbo (probably need an new one so the exhaust system will work)
Original tractor had the radiator go out while an employee was driving and got damn hot. Started passing a little coolant/vapor so I figured the head gasket was cooked. Got it open and the head is warped (and has already been ground down) I'm thinking at least one of not more sleeves have o-rings that are leaking coolant (had gallons in the oil after it sat a month), the whole engine was full or sludge, and the turbo is cooked probably from the watery oil.
Like I said I have no issues rebuilding that machine but there's no time for that, I'll be better running this one for the year and making the overhaul a winter project for next year.
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 9:53pm
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As usual, these engine swaps are never as easy as you might think. The biggest issue is the front engine plate. You either use the original tractor plate with the ears to bolt it into the frame or add some ears to the combine plate. If you use the tractor plate, then you need to remove the cam. Oil pan, oil pump, turbos,flywheel,intake manifold or intercooler are different. If you use the intercooler, you need the water pump volute with that extra pipe. Different dipstick and locations. Different front crank pulleys. The fuel systems are also different. I prefer the Bosch nozzles, but not the M100 pump. I don't think that the Rossamaster pump will work on the 8050 plate. You would need a plate from a 7000 series. The idler gear is different too. The fuel injector lines need to match with whatever setup you're going to use. The injector pump on the combine is also electric shutoff,but a wire can be added for that. The bypass oil filter from the tractor should be used on a combine engine too.
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