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Ford Guys...Remote Start

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=205801
Printed Date: 09 May 2025 at 12:57pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Ford Guys...Remote Start
Posted By: Ted J
Subject: Ford Guys...Remote Start
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 4:15pm
Hi Guys,
  I've got a 2015 F150 and the remote start just quit working.  I started it at home and it worked.  Went to visit my sister and when I was going to leave it wouldn''t work.  I pushed the buttons and the lights blinked and the horn sounded.

What should I be looking at to fix it?
Thanks


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17



Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 4:27pm
Here is the sequence of event in order.. Sometimes if i delay too long between the "push this button, then that button" , or 2019 FLEX does not start......the HORN is not part of the sequence.. Horn is a signal that means NO START..
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To remotely start your 2015 F-150, press the lock button on your key fob, then press the remote start button (the button with the 2x icon) twice within 3 seconds
The vehicle will start, and the exterior lamps will flash twice. 
Here's a more detailed explanation:
  • Press the Lock Button: First, press the lock button on your key fob to lock all the doors. 
  • Press the Remote Start Button Twice: Immediately after locking the doors, press the remote start button (the one with the 2x icon and a rotating arrow) twice, within a 3-second timeframe. 
  • Visual Confirmation: You should see the exterior lamps flash twice, indicating that the remote start command has been received and the vehicle is starting.
  • Horn Indication: If the system fails to start, the horn will sound unless Quiet Start is enabled. 
  • Vehicle Operation: The vehicle will run for a pre-set time (5, 10, or 15 minutes, depending on the setting). 


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 4:28pm
Check one of the 3 fuse panels for a blown fuse. Hopefully you HAVE the pristine manual in the 'glove' box. They should show where the fuses are and what they power. Hopefullly one is labelled 'remote start'.
Since the horn beeps,lights flash  is the signal to the 'starter system' that isn't making the trip. The 'control box' should be OK.....


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 4:31pm
also try standing 20 ft from the truck instead of in the house.. see if that works...

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 4:49pm
Maybe check the battery in the key fob too.

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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!


Posted By: Steve in MI
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 5:24pm
if you have a check engine light on the remote start won't work , at least on my dodge it wont


Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2025 at 8:08pm

   Remember - Ted said it was a 2015 F-150

Teds Truck has probably heard all the Tariff News going around.

It realizes that when Canada stops shipping that 50% of Canadian

    Manufactured Truck Parts and that 100% of rolls of Aluminum to Stamp

   out all that Ford Pick-up Sheet Metal, Ford Manufacturing Trucks will cease.

Those few remaining F-150's, one's like Ted's, will become Collector Classics.

             AND MORE SOONER THAN LATER


       How does that Classic Song go?   Oh Ya   "LEAN ON ME"   

    G


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 4:51am
Originally posted by Gary Gary wrote:


   Remember - Ted said it was a 2015 F-150

Teds Truck has probably heard all the Tariff News going around.

It realizes that when Canada stops shipping that 50% of Canadian

    Manufactured Truck Parts and that 100% of rolls of Aluminum to Stamp

   out all that Ford Pick-up Sheet Metal, Ford Manufacturing Trucks will cease.

Those few remaining F-150's, one's like Ted's, will become Collector Classics.

             AND MORE SOONER THAN LATER


       How does that Classic Song go?   Oh Ya   "LEAN ON ME"   

    G

You forgot check the antifreeze, gaREE!  Politics belongs downstairs, and your hatred is showing again...Wink

And did I hear a request?LOL

https://youtu.be/MnnjG5RsBgQ?si=tMftD4sgALwN24sE" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/MnnjG5RsBgQ?si=tMftD4sgALwN24sE


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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 5:12am
Originally posted by sparky sparky wrote:

Maybe check the battery in the key fob too.

Can attest to this one.  2017 Exploder, fob would Unlock doors or Lock them, would NOT open rear hatch or start car, was battery getting weak.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 8:29am
2015 is 10 years old........... battery change is a GOOD idea, even if not the problem.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 9:43am

Ya I guess you're right Dave, but it just seemed so fitting! LOL


   Funny nobody asked Ted if he still had the 2nd Remote that he could give it a try.

G


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 6:10am
Well guys, I got er fixed!!
The batteries in the fob were good and as per Gary, I tried the 2nd fob and that too was no go.  So,,,,,,,,,,checking the fuses etal,,,,,,,,, I figured that if the lights flashed and the horn honked, that it wasn't the batteries in the fob or the 12v.
Did some checking on Youtube and there was some stuff about the pressure switch under the hood.  I went to look for that and there wasn't one!!  BUT,,,,,,slamming the hood shut,,,,it WORKED!!
Ergo, there has to be a switch there somewhere, but I couldn't find one.  At least there is nothing visible....
So,,,,,,,,THANKS guys!!  That did it.


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 6:12am
Also inspect for Rodent Damage to electrical cables, Eng Coolant Temp Ga loss on my SD Ford was a Rat Bite/Chew mark.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 8:33am
switch may be under the hood LATCH at the front.. Look for a harness with a couple wires... You should get an LIGHT/ ALARM if it was not working........... but glad it is fixed !

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 9:24am

Steve

If Ted hadn't got the Remote Start working, is that something that your

   recommended MotoPower OBDII Diagnostics Tool would give a code?

   I've never used an OBD Diag. Tool before.

   G


Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 7:15pm


Question for Steve.

G


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 7:31pm
dont need a code reader.. should get an idiot light on the dash if the hood is open or switch not working.. just like leaving the door open , or tail gate, or check engine light..

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 7:32pm
@TED J
please do a test.

open hood and try to remote start the truck. see if it does or doesn't start.

curious am I .


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 7:39pm
If the light did not come on... then possibly something else prior to SLAMMING the hood... Yes, leave the hood open and try the remote start.. Also see that you get a LIGHT when you turn the key ON..




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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2025 at 12:44am
There was no light on the gauges at all.  I tried just pushing the start button without the brake being pressed, and no lights.  Started and no lights.  Opened the hood and it wouldn't start.  I shut it like I always did and it wouldn't start.  Kind of slammed it shut and it works.  It was dark out, so I'll look later in the light to see if I can find the switch.
Thanks!


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2025 at 3:14am
Ford is a little freakish as they like to put switches at the latches as well as contact points.


Posted By: D19allisowner
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2025 at 2:25pm
Some of the GM crap likes to put the switches in the latches so you have to replace the whole thing.

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If you choose not to decide you still have made a choice.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 2:12am
Due to our weather, I haven't been able to check this out.
BUT,,,,yesterday I went to the store for groceries and lo and behold the 'check engine light' is on now.
Ran the code at Advanced Auto and got a PO131.  Says 
"O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)"

So,,,,,,,,,,should I wait till it is warmer out and no snow on the ground and try to check the voltage at the connection?  Just go ahead and change out the O2 Sensor?
What are your thoughts?

Thanks, Ted

Oh yeah, this 2015 has 167,000 on it.  I don't know if this has ever been changed.  Should I change out both #1s (Bank 1 & 2)?


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 2:42am
Change the failed sensor and await the next


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 6:52am
You tube video.........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlkprWzQrMg" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlkprWzQrMg



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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 7:26am
I get those and a couple others(related)  since going to a single cat per side. keep scanner onboard and reset when I'm fed up seeing the 'engine light' on.
Since there isn't a 2nd O2 sensor,computer gets 'comfused'.....


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 7:31am
yes--P0131 is "RELATED " to the O2 sensor.. It is POSSIBLE that a squrrel ate the wire, or the cat converter is plugged/ damaged... but since it is a VOLTAGE related, the sensor is a good bet.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.



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