scuff and buff, she'll fire right up !!!!

ATF/ace 50:50  and some patience. OK, maybe a lot of patience.

nice 'winter project' though...

DMiller wrote: Pretty Ugly

Yup.

I cannot recall ever seeing worse

Might take several winters!

I used this method on a "B" engine with 2 rusty cylinders and it runs great years later with the pistons never having been taken out.  I get your engine isn't going to do that, but getting rid of the rust will help it come apart.

AC7060IL wrote: ... How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ??

Pretty rough, not sure what will be salvageable.

AC7060IL wrote: Les Kerf, is your engine a D14 149cu in from an AC 30L long conveyor or 30S short auger blower?

I am not knowledgeable enough about blowers to say but it doesn't have an auger. The engine is a 125 for certain, hand crank only.

I will try to get some more photos

dr p wrote: Les, is that the blower that sold in tioga county pa in Sept?

No, this one has been sitting on my neighbors farm here in northern Idaho for many years

DougG wrote: Wow- junk it and get a different one!

I actually have different one that looks like it will be much better, although it too is stuck. We got it to move about a half turn today

AC7060IL wrote: Les Kerf, is your engine a D14 149cu in from an AC 30L long conveyor or 30S short auger blower?

AC7060IL wrote: Might be a great candidate for an electrolysis soak (e-bath). Anyone on here ever do an entire engine into a e-bath? How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ??

Bottom View

AC7060IL wrote: Might be a great candidate for an electrolysis soak (e-bath). Anyone on here ever do an entire engine into a e-bath? How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ??

brass, copper, and aluminum are negatively affected by electrolysis, it's also a line of sight operation, anode needs to be able to "see" all nooks and cranny's to clean them, would be hard on an assembled engine 

Here is my Model 60 Combine engine, just got it freed up yesterday. MUCH better looking on top, have yet to pull the pan.

This is the Model C for which the combine engine is destined.

.

+1 that's a project!

 We didn't have a C version on the farm so I had to pull up the Tractor Data page. That looks like a good tractor to have.

Using gov inflation stats, if sold new today it would be a $16,000 tractor. Which seems like a bargain for what you could farm with it.

.

plummerscarin wrote: Daaannngggg, I thought I was ambitious

We are working under a very LOW budget situation here so don't expect to see a fancy restoration

We need (or at least I think we need) another power plant engine; the combine engine itself could suffice as it has the PTO gearbox, but it has no provision for electric start, and it would be more convenient if it were self-propelled rather than needing to be hauled around for different applications. The derelict tractor should solve both of those problems.

This tractor belonged to a dear family friend and neighbor; I first saw this machine when I was about four years old back in 1962, and I remember helping in the hay fields where it was being used.

The neighbor sold the farm in the late 1960's and passed away a few years later. Subsequent owners neglected the tractor and the block cracked from freezing water.

Somehow my Dad acquired the tractor and it has sat on our place ever since; he wanted to fix it up but passed away far too young. My Grandson and I hope to make it roar once again if the Lord is willing, so this is a labor of love as much as anything.

Lars(wi) wrote: Would it be more advantageous to convert the combine to PTO?

I did not mean to be misleading; the combine will probably never run again and never has since I have owned it, I wouldn't even begin to know how to run it. I bought it from another neighbor about 40 years ago, I do remember seeing it run back in the 70's when the neighbor put in about 20 acres of oats. He had his Father bring the combine up from Coeur d' Alene for the job and it never left the place. I bought it mainly for the engine as I had a Model C at the time.

The engine was stuck when I removed it this winter, but not too badly, and it turns over quite nicely now.

The blower engine is another story, good thing it was cheap. But I got another magneto, which was worth the price in itself.

The saga continues: It just gets worse and worse!

A bit difficult to get a good photo, but this is the front main journal on the blower engine. The crankshaft has been shoved ahead with massive wear on the thrust surface; it is 'stuck' so I do not yet know how much end play it has, but I intend to get it loose and lift it out.

The release fingers on the clutch are worn so badly that they actually folded completely over.

This engine PTO has the straight-through output shaft with a V-pulley on it so there are no gears involved to allow putting the PTO in neutral (the shaft turns at engine speed). The only way to disengage the PTO is to release the clutch, which has a little metal tab that can be flipped over to lock the lever forward; the throwout bearing is then riding fully on the release fingers to hold the clutch in the released position.

Since this engine is a hand-cranked unit, I'm pretty certain that the operators left the engine running and simply locked the clutch 'out' while they doodled around getting the next load of hay, etc. rather than wasting the effort to re-start it. Hence the massive thrust wear on the clutch and crankshaft.

I doubt the crankshaft is salvageable.

wjohn wrote: Oof! Do you have another salvageable crank?

I have not examined the crank in the derelict Model C yet

Jay said "at 71 I'm not in a hurry....though it'd be nice if ONE of my 2 big toes healed up soon..."

Jay, 'ya got me beat in that category... I got one healed big toe, and aside from a few owies along the way, that's the way for the last 43 years...

That crank is pretty rough.  I know guys that could clean it up, but I don't think it could be done as economically as finding a usable replacement.  Getting the sleeves out... probably scrub it out as best I could, unbolt the rods and shimmy the crank out, then long hardwood block on the pistons, and drive the sleeves, slugs, etc., all out together.

If it froze, I would be surprised if it didn't have freeze fractures along the beltline zone between the crankcase and lower end of the liners... and probably the webbing between cylinder liners... but 'ya won't know 'till you got it pulled down and cleaned up.

The derelict Model C mentioned above is now in the shop; I am working on the front wheels, they appear to be steel spoked wheels that someone cut off the rims and welded rubber tire rims on them. They are rusted through so I intend to weld some better rims on.