Not a huge amount to this update, although I've got the bottom end back together now & given the carb a once over. Apart from some cobwebs & bits of seed it was remarkably clean inside and from the look of the brass parts I'd say it's never seen ethanol in it's life which would add weight to my theory that it was stripped and the engine rebuild fudged a lot of years ago.

In other news, the fellow I bought her from may have located the head bolts and rocker assembly which would be a huge bonus so I don't have to fiddlefart around modifying the Ford parts I have dug out. On the magneto front, I'm not so hopeful of getting the original unit (and if I did, of it being serviceable) so with regards to that I may modify a distributor and go with battery ignition. The block has been tapped to accept a generator bracket so at least I can keep it charged easily. Even though I have no plan to fit an electric starter currently (pun intended) it'd be nice to have a reliable fat spark & some lights for winter time.

Anyhoos, will post any other findings or queries that arise as I get to them. Oh boy, there will be some when I get to the water pump and brakes believe me on that!

Cheers, Dan

I will however look into the "correct" unit as an option, you wouldn't happen to know a part number for that would you?

Cheers, Dan

Will have to try and grab a photo but she's starting to look more tractor shaped and less like I dumped a pile of iron scrap on the front of the house!

Rain stops play once again now, but managed to get the block covered & overall I'm quite pleased with the progress. Plus my idea of sweating out this bug seems to have worked, I'm feeling much better too! Manual labour, the cure to all ills... 

I have considered a retrofit of an auto distributor before.. 4 cylinder  (VW, FORD) or any other should work.... nice little project.. You want one that you can START about TDC, then have 30 degrees centrifugal advance by 1000 RPM..

Splines on hub shaft are a problme when the nut gets loose... If not completely destroyed, you can put a thick layer of devcon ( liquid metal) and put the hub and and snug it up good.. Let it set for 24 hours, then torque to 500 ft pounds..

Newest problem (or not) is that on cleaning up the steering gearbox it was painted green, and on further inspection is actually a Fordson unit from a standard Major (especially weird, my first guess would've been JD or Oliver from the colour!)

Fortunately the seller is a good guy & along with locating the head bolts plus possibly the rocker assy. & may be able to find the steering gear with help of his father on whose behalf he sold the tractor.

For the moment I'll oil up the top end well, cover that & get to looking at the rest of the puzzle with the bracketry for the seat/tank,tins etc. and maybe look at the distributor.

Really appreciate the help and suggestions, we'll have the old girl feeling better soon :)

If you're interested in flipping your B over from Mag to Distributor, I offer two complete kits. One points and one electronic ignition. Units are all rebuilt top to bottom, new Coil of choice, ign. switch, wiring, spark plugs and wires, and installation instructions. Visit our website and check it out if interested...

Steve@B&B

bb-customcircuits.com

Also even if I was able to spend real money on the tractor, it'd be ruled out for the moment as I've just royally F'*£ed up while loading an old sofa onto our car & dropped a ratchet strap on the windscreen. Right smack in front of the driver, after all where else would it break? So I'm now working out how & IF I can even keep the tractor and afford the new glass...

If every cloud has a silver lining, I should be making superb quality solder joints for years out of this one!

Thanks anyway, appreciate the thought & will check out the website to distract myself...

Not much to report on the B for the moment, new glass for the one car is going to be around £400 or so (not claiming insurance, that's a joke for another time anyway!) hence have decided to focus on getting one of my others on the road since the work it needed for MoT (inspection) was only going to cost about £30 and a good few hours of sweat and blood.

I'm well and truly spent now, having been rolling around on the driveway for the better part of the last week welding and throwing tools! But she's about ready now & should have a year's ticket on Monday so I should at least be able to keep the old B for the moment & maybe do a bit of R&R on that in the next week whilst the welding stuff is out front. 

Need to weld a nut onto the oil drain plug that's rounder than the tyres & one of the final drive pans is rusted through, not to mention what little is left of the tinwork.

Makes sense seeing as I've found kerosene/TVO specific parts in the pile of bits.

Anyway, I've got a few photos of the tractor as it sits but will have to get them from phone to computer in order to post them. 

Also, now got a few little bits from a long dead MF65 diesel abandoned in the hills (Sadly the whole thing is returning to the earth, most bolt heads unrecognizable, 4.203 locked solid with moss growing from the exhaust and even injector lines rotted out) and it's neighbour, half of what appears to have been a 35 diesel with no cylinder head or front end.

Not huge things, just a few fine thread bolts, block drain cock & a water pump from the 65 which was somehow still free.

Why the water pump? Well the one I have is just the casing with no bearing, seal, shaft, hub or impeller. The only moving part I had was the adjustable pulley.  I was originally thinking to use the shaft & impeller from the Perkins but as that would require machining the larger impeller I've had a look and I *think* I can actually make this water pump work on the B engine.

Two of the bolt holes line up with the ones in the block, I should be able to "clock" it in such a way that the bottom hose lines up pretty good & I can make a backplate for it and block off two outlet stubs to direct flow through the block like standard.

I will of course get photos of this spectacular rig-up if I get it to fit. Just over here doing what our forefathers would'a done to get by I suppose haha

The kerosene engines have less power if they still have the original pistons but many have been rebuilt and changed out since then. Some other makes of tractors (IH, for example) also had different cylinder heads for distillate/kerosene. I think in most AC tractors it was mostly the pistons and manifolds which were different, and easy enough to swap out at time of engine rebuild.

If you have all the parts to put it back to original that would be neat and worth doing in my opinion.

The pistons are reasonably flat-topped with a small (maybe 10-15cc) shallow bowl, combustion chambers in the head are pretty huge in comparison so not sure on CR as yet. If I'd known this whilst the pistons were out I'd have pulled numbers off them but as things are it'll remain a mystery.

Anyway the bolts & washers for the head have finally arrived, just in time for the weather to warm up and go all biblical on the rain for a few days...  Sooo, may bring the head indoors to prep that for install & God willing get a chance sometime over the week to clean the block surface, bolt holes etc to finally get the head installed.  At least have the engine sealed up properly for over winter.

Really wish the site's photo hosting was more flexible, I do have some pics but resizing them all to upload is a PITA even for a youngin like me!

I didn't even know Allis made a B with a Zenith carb specifically set up for burning alcohol until a few months ago, as one example - not that I have torn apart anywhere near the number of tractors you and some other guys have, but there are lots of neat little things I will probably never see in person on these tractors.

While the head is indoors it is a simple matter to pour a suitable liquid (something benign such as vegetable oil will suffice) into the combustion chamber to get a rough guess of its volume. Do the same with the pistons/cylinders and do the math to ascertain the compression ratio. It will be rather low.

Caught a break in the rain & was adjusting the fan belt on the car, that allowed a neat little segue into cleaning up the block & threads, weather held long enough to do the job. Nicely!

I think I did overestimate the bowl size in the pistons, probably only hold a few cc but dished nonetheless, so most likely lower comp Kero special items.

Another potential issue I ran into though, I think the spark plugs were some old 2-piece types & the bottom part has been left in the head. Here's hoping they come out OK! Never mind though, it's the best bit of progress so far on the project & I can move onto building a rocker assembly to suit now. Love getting into the chewy redneck bits like this...

Also placed an order for some bolts to hold the front wheels on so she'll be able to roll even, once the right rear brake is unlocked...

Only issue foreseen is the very last rocker on one end won't get fed oil so will wear more but should get at least some splash over from it's neighbours. Then it's onto building up the rocker arms to reach the valve stem as they currently just miss & would push on the keeper & cutting/extending the back ends to line up with the pushrods (should be fun times, they're cast! Also need to look at some pics to ascertain the Allis rockers are in fact a 1.0 ratio since the Crossflow items are beginning as 1.35 ratio. Worse case this old motor gets a bit extra valve lift for all the powahhh!).  

The spark plug bases left in the head might actually be anti-fouling inserts, will see if they turn out or not but may be OK left in place if they fight.

One other thing of note perhaps, I've been trying out my son's new inverter welder (A cheapie from Ebay, "Conentool" brand 200A multi-process unit) and I'm super impressed with the flux core side of things. Much easier and quicker to set up & get started than my old transformer unit & the high-frequency arc burns much smoother.  Literally just tell it the wire size, material thickness and pull the trigger, beautiful looking solid weld from the get go. That's one for the Christmas list!

Cheers all, will be back on sometime hopefully with news of compression when it spins!

EDITED to add-:  Fairly productive afternoon measuring, grinding and welding onto cast(!) and we have the rocker shaft in such shape as it fits the B's head & contacts the valve stems as needed.  Not pretty by any stretch, just tacked on some extensions & blobbed around/ground back but good enough for who it's for.  The pushrod side needs to "grow" by 1" to line up with the pushrods & end up as 1-1 rocker ratio (no extra horses for me haha). Anti-foulers came out just dandy so that's one less worry, the bit's back between my teeth now & I wanna hear her at least make some kind of noise before 2025.

May do a short walkaround video/tour of the hackery once it's running, just because it's easier than doing photos for me.

Dark & rain = game over for tonight but hoping to get some playtime tomorrow and at least finish the rocker assembly if not get started with mounting the distributor. Only need to get the rockers/pushrods, ignition & oil line to the head sorted and be nearly ready to try and fire up the abomination!

Points look decent after a clean & those and the condenser even have the FoMoCo script on them so they're oldies but goodies. Rather trust a 50 year old capacitor than a modern Chinese one!

Hoping for a break in the weather tomorrow & more progress. The little B's Christmas present may be to come to life once more, at this rate.

Rocker assembly should be done now, providing the welds hold together under valve spring pressure, and knocked out the starting handle & one pushrod before the rain was too sketchy to be welding. Did I mention I hate living in England?

Just can't abide this rain, it's so close to test firing! 

EDIT- 3 pushrods down, 5 to go... Sun is below the horizon now sadly but I'm hopeful for the next few days.  Video walkaround & start incoming before Christmas with any luck...

At least they're cheap for now...   As to the advance, this dizzy was already set up for 30* when I got it so should be good. Not sure how much it'd affect starting if it was BTDC, bearing in mind it's a hand crank only unit, definitely think I'll "creep up" on the timing rather than have it snatch the crank out of my hand lol.

that being said... all my small units are MAG and ELECTRIC start... and i set them at TDC to fire off..... and they have the 30 degrees advance.

You're in Manchester, and hate living in England... but you write with the enthusiasm of a Welshman, you engineer and modify like a possesed Scotsman...

All that would make me think you're Canadian...

Where are you originally from?

I wish I would have seen this thread last year.  Every three-four years or so,  My cousin Jacques (in Luxembourg) buys a bunch of old car parts, and has 'em shipped to my house.  I gather 'em all up, put together a shipping crate, fill out all the paperwork, and ship it to him.

There's no reason the same can't be done to Manchester UK.

Do this-  Make a list of ALL the 'hard parts' that your B needs in order to be a living tractor again.... Post that list here.  Guys, if you've got, and are willing to part with what he needs, let's figure out a way to gather it all up, and send him a care package to get his old gal running again.

Hopefully will have some covered space in future, but for now just keep on keepin' on between showers.

I've started on the distributor drive & mounting, one issue I've just realised is the governor gear turns at crank speed. This is something I'd considered but not really bothered ascertaining until now, as I thought it more likely to turn at cam speed.  I'm thinking a solution would be to use a super hot coil & use an opposing pair of poles on the cap to hopefully fire 2 plugs at once (1-4 and 2-3 in a wasted spark arrangement).

Otherwise I'll be looking to gear down the drive somehow (not very likely IMO) or just simply run off 2 cylinders at a time just for the sake of hearing it make noise (cheating IMO I want to run it on 4).

Time to have a rest and put the thinking cap on, and do some experimentation with firing 2 plugs off one output etc... All fun, at least the engine is all buttoned up & seems to have compression.

you should have to roll the engine over twice to get the distributor to do one rotation.

I'm going to have to pop back out and check again to make sure I'm not going nuts (there IS a high chance I am, mind!)

Either way, I think I can work around it either with a HOT coil or a pair of coils. Other option is to go back to the Chinese ATV ignition idea I had a while ago before I dug out this dizzy, basically a pair of CDI ignition systems with triggers on the crank pulley.

My wife was a travel agent 45 years ago. The Scottish neighbor had her book a number of seats to take friends to see it. One of those given a ticket came in to the agency saying there was a mistake,  HER TICKET WAS NOT FIRST CLASS. Now what was she to do she knew the penny pincher NEVER even thought of buying first class tickets. So she calls in front of ticket holder, askes I did get you the right tickets ? He says yes of course.

Thirty years latter I had occasion to tell this story to his son. He about fell down laughing thinking of his father buying first class airplane tickets. 

Anyway best I swerve the politics now before I awaken something to get me banned and blacklisted from the forum!

Arizona sounds like a place to be, or anywhere else with low rainfall and low humidity. Heck I'd endure cattle class, maybe even the cargo hold to get over there! 

For now it's dark & rainy and biting wind, but there's a new video resurrecting an International KB-6 truck that's sat in the desert nearly 50 years so all is not lost I can just live the dream vicariously through "theetravisb" on the youtubes 

you have an ALLIS B, but are you SURE it is an American Allis CE Engine ??  Britts might have used a different engine in some tractors..

here are some pictures of an American Allis B engine...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YH4dY1Hg5U&t=1467s" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YH4dY1Hg5U&t=1467s

Well, you're welcome downstairs, in the political forum, you just have to sign up.  You seem to have missed the opportunity to get over here the easy way, alls you had to do was to get to Mexico, grow a mustachio, wear a sombrero, sneak in and start collecting your free cell phone, EBT card, and free hotel room...

I don't seem to be able to even see the political forum, I have heard mention of it before just never been able to find it.

I'll have to be careful with my reply re. sneaking in, not for fear of repercussion online but mainly from our own gov't for daring to think in a sane manner...

Steve, most definitely an American engine (and from the numbers most likely the original block, albeit with later 125 liners). As per Les, it is indeed turning crank speed & like yourself I'm wondering how the horizontal distributors worked now.  Mighty inconvenient, but I'll find a way round it. (have actually begun to consider gear reduction as an option now, utilising chain & sprockets and making a further adapter to relocate the dizzy lower down).

Also, thanks for reminding me of that video. I'd watched a little of it previously but had forgotten it existed! Also it reminded me that I need to sort oil lines to the head & governor.

steve(ill) wrote: I have toyed with the idea of getting an old VW distributor. They are short shaft and have a tang drive.. Dont know about the tang size....

The tang on the VW distributor is offset to prevent installing it 180 degrees out so it would require some modification.

and yes, i remember reading that the VW distributor was " off center"... I think one would have to turn a housing on the lathe to pilot into the engine block bore, and then bore the hole for the distributor slightly off center... The housing would have to be bolted SOLID to the block and all timing adjustments would be by rotating the distributor..... i really was not thinking about the "HALF SPEED" needed when i was looking at that distributor..

Now I've thought on it a little, gearing down may be the best option even though it requires more rigging.  One thing I do have available in abundance is old bicycle parts, I'm thinking if I can strip an old freewheel down & rob a couple of sprockets from that (for example 11 & 22 or 12/24 tooth) all I need do then is set up a bearing & drive shaft from the governor with the smaller sprocket & mount the distributor offset to that with the larger one driving it.

Does leave more scope for slop in the timing but I reckon I can work it so the chain runs pretty tight, and maybe even T into the governor oil line to give the dizzy & chain a constant source of lubrication.

This is much preferable to running wasted spark, as Steve notes the spark would likely just favor the easier plug to fire (more likely to be the one NOT under compression) PLUS now I think of it, I'd only end up with 15 degrees advance running the dizzy at crank rpm (running 15* at half engine speed effectively doubles the advance).

If the chain-drive idea works out & the engine runs half decent I might spring for the few quid to get a "robotics" type toothed belt & sprockets to eliminate slop/need for lubrication.

ekjdm14 wrote: That's correct Steve, with the cylinders being at 180 to one another the 2 ports at 90* would be redundant. The wasted spark works on the JD as it's a 2 cylinder. The extra spark on exhaust stroke is inconsequential, possibly even advantageous for emissions & I think most modern injected engines run on this principle...

Yup.

If there is room enough inside the distributor to mount an additional set of points, then each set of points could be used to trigger a double-ended coil such as is common on many modern vehicles. The distributor cap and rotor would then be unused.

Years ago I owned a D2 Caterpillar that had a bad pony motor magneto ($$$) so I experimented with making a battery powered ignition that was triggered by a photo eye reading a bit of reflective tape on the flywheel. I had it making good sparks and am confident that it would have worked well enough, but I sold the tractor before completing the project.

tadams(OH) wrote: I have seen Farmall H & M distributors used in place of a mag, laying on there side

I have never seen the insides of those, do they have a means of gear reduction?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8b8L8OlFAaE" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8b8L8OlFAaE

look at the 4:45 mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJXnFY9Nxhw&t=284s

At a guess, either the Farmall engines drove the mag at 1/2 speed or their dizzy had internal reduction also. Will have a quick look at a picture, should be fairly self-evident if there is. EDIT- No need to look, Steve has me beat! 

Of course it's hammering down outside now, but that's OK I'm due a rest and don't have a coil yet anyhow but now I know I'll be using a standard run of the mill oil coil that can get ordered up and be on it's way. (unless I check any of the CDI coils and see if they'll work off points)  Operation "Pre-Christmas fire up" still viable. 

Thanks, Dan.

Getting close now. Then the real work can begin sorting the cooling system, adapting a Fordson 27N steering gear, freeing the right side brake and patching the final drive pans to make her driveable. Long ways from finished but hopefully she appreciates the effort & doesn't fight too hard to get to where I can drive off the trailer under engine power & in one piece. 

Did grab a random china coil out of a bits box & primary is somewheres in the 1.5 ohm range so will either have to add a resistor or just run a half dead battery haha (current starting battery in the daily has 2 shorted cells, it'd crank all day still if you asked it, only at about 5 rpm! Good job the engine's an old sweetheart. 3 lots of glow & still fires up in 3 revolutions) Maybe I should spring for a replacement & use the "new fangled 8 volt" one on the tractor... Shame to throw it away while it still sorta works...

Your old, tired battery will run the 1.5 ohm coil just fine as a 'total loss' ignition plenty long enough to test out whatever additional issues need addressed.

I once had a rototiller engine on which the flywheel magnets had died resulting in no spark. Finding myself in an impecunious state and needing to get the garden planted, I used a broken Makita 9.6 Volt drill to hold its battery taped onto the tiller and connected an old VW coil through the breaker points. It would run the tiller engine for about an hour before needing re-charged.

Loving the Makita/VW ignition setup, did similar years back with an old BSA 2 stroke built into a bicycle wheel, something like 25cc. That had magnetism but a bad coil so ran it with a seperate coil (probably BMC/Austin IIRC) and a small car battery in the bike's shopping basket  Worked great & could get a couple of days worth of riding/commuting on a charge until the crank seal worked loose & I retired it.

To be fair it'd probably be better for the machine if I do end up on a parts hold till next week so I can go over everything I've done & tie up some loose ends like governor spring/oil line, alternator bracket & suchlike. Maybe start on the water pump as I know I'll want to keep running it once she goes!

Too dark now to see anything but hopefully get the rim cleaned up patched & new tube in tomorrow, and make a start on unsticking the rear brake/repairing final drive pans. Coil is due sometime in the next 10 days, fingers crossed for pre Christmas fire up still 

Also confirmed the Perkins 4-203 water pump won't be viable as the housing would foul the governor linkage, so for the moment have plugged the original pump with silicone and plan to run thermosiphon cooling for the moment. Rad lends itself to this as has vertical tubes & won't be running it super hard or for very long anyway, just rather have some water in there so I can play for a little while & get it warm enough to retorque the head bolts.  

The wait is killing me now, can't wait to crank it up finally!

I don't think the home made starting handle is helping my cause, doesn't quite have the leverage to really pull through compression.  If anyone has a CE engine starting handle easy to reach, could I ask a huge favor please & have someone measure the length of the "lever" portion (the / of the Z if you will).  

I'm feeling like it's close though, just need a redo of the handle & eat my Weetabix... 

EDIT- I'm definitely way off on the handle, just from looking at a couple youtube videos it ought to be about twice the length!

FURTHER EDIT- handle duly extended & a lot better to spin it over, she's a stubborn lil' bish though! Had a couple of promising "plop"s from the exhaust but still nothing I'd call firing per-se.  Playing around with timing a little but it's not the easiest work cranking by hand, specially trying to do it "safely" and not get a snapped wrist. I sure wouldn't complain if a starter motor turned up in the stash that's for sure...  

Getting dark outside now & busy day tomorrow so going to give her a rest now before I have a coronary, probably just wants to chew through the remnants of oil in the cylinders & maybe think a little on where she's come from before she wants to play ball. Next order of play double check valve clearances now it's spun over a bunch & build up some energy reserves maybe for Thursday.

i have never used it to start... just to rotate for timing.

Frustrating 'cause it's so close yet so far.

There is mention in the manual of a true TDC marker "DC" but not seeing this on my flywheel, probably not present as it was never intended to use battery ignition?

ekjdm14 wrote: ... There is mention in the manual of a true TDC marker "DC" but not seeing this on my flywheel...

They get filled in by rust and grime, making it quite difficult to find. The setscrew on the front crankshaft pulley should be pointing straight up at TDC. Once you have found true TDC, just use a test light or ohmmeter to set the timing.

I did note the relationship of the set screw being about TDC, and the dirt on the flywheel, still no sign of the DC mark.

Plans cancelled today so might have a fiddle round checking over things & not yank too hard on it (a few little aches this morning!) see what she says today.

Thanks for the pointers guys, will have her singing 

This yielded what I'd call actual firing, she kicked over a couple of times billowing smoke & presumably has oiled the plugs again now but she fired nonetheless 

I'm a sweaty, but elated, mess now. I've put the effort in & she's beginning to reciprocate at last!  Quick breather then clean the plugs, rinse and repeat 

Thank You all, for the help in getting to this point. Truly appreciate you.

ekjdm14 wrote: Been out and had a quick look, finally located the "DC" mark. No stamped letter, it's just a line like the firing mark. Confirmed I had the timing pretty well spot on, checked/adjusted valves slightly, cleaned the plugs & gave each cylinder a couple CC of raw fuel...

My Model C does NOT like to start when cold if the throttle is advanced beyond the third notch on the quadrant. I typically use the second notch with full choke and it fires right up.

Got a couple of short videos uploading & will share the links when done, I did wait to see oil pressure before giving her a rev. Oil filter has a couple pinholes & a lot of reassembly to be done, cooling system to sort before I get carried away, rear wheel to sort & then when I've finagled the carb & fuel supply I might try and pop the rear brake loose with the clutch. 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lom68ZVVio4

Hopefully two short videos of her running, recorded on the boy's phone. Wish I'd got the start, she went just like a real one, so easy once she'd blown the cobwebs out.

Sweet!

Please show a picture of your distributor drive

I will try and get a photo to where I can upload it, but when it's able to run without "nursing" I do plan on doing a start & full walkaround video with the rocker cover off too so you can all see the abominations within that also.

Thanks again to everyone who has (directly or indirectly) helped this project along the way. 

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0tvTKCJ3xUg?feature=share

Just for you Les    (Well, I might have just wanted to hear her bark again too haha! Got to quit now as it's getting some heat into it & I want to get her holding water before I warp anything!

Starts half decent though have to admit, even though I'm being naughty & pushing it through because I'm tired I've got faith in my timing not to maim me... 

I love it!

Certainly wish the fella I bought it from would at least find the steering gear. That'll be the next example of high grade redneckery (after the thermosiphon cooling of course!), adapting the Fordson steering gear to work on the B (most likely topped by a '90s Citroen steering wheel, since that's what I have spare). Fairly simple one that, couple of mounting plates & extend the column by a couple feet, maybe even graft on the spline from a Citroen column if I wanna get all fancy pants with securing the 'wheel then cobble or come up with a drop arm.  Nothin' to it...

I'd hoped to have her running before Christmas & met with success, next ambition is driving off the trailer under her own power. Should be simple enough lol.

In the pile of random parts that came with the machine there was a well worn 3pt top link which I've pulled apart, after popping a ball out & shortening the piece to about 13" it looks close enough to a "real" drop arm that I think it can be repurposed as such.

With that sorted I should just need to extend the column enough to reach the 'wheel, bolt something on for a seat & be able to drive her onto terra firma at last.

3 point link bar fabricobbled (with the obligatory chunk of bicycle frame for good measure & a ball from an old ball joint) to where it now identifies as a drop arm & if I grab the column tight enough I can move the front wheels in some approximation of "steering". Do need to reinforce the bracket mounting the box to the torque tube as it's pretty flexy at the moment but nothing too much like hard work.  

Even have a nice comfy seat on her now, part of a folding rear seat back from a Peugeot 306 with it's brackets flipped 180* bolts on nice and secure. It's half leather even! (wrapped up in a tarp as it's soaked from sitting outside the last 8 months but still pretty comfy. I'd know, I was sat on it for 20 minutes playing round with the throttle lever  getting it ready to hook up & fit a new detent spring.

One thing I've not considered as yet is a fan (since I'm running a "dummy" water pump and thermosiphon cooling there's no provision for the fan).  First thoughts are get an alternator fitted then run an electric fan, though I may see if there's parts in the stash to make up a bearing assembly to hold the original fan/pulley.

Will try and get some photos of the professional, Pebble Beach, restoration work tomorrow when it's light. Will be a pain to resize them but I gotta show some hackery to keep people interested right?

Still plan on doing a full walk around video of the thing once it's down off the trailer and in a semi-usable state but the least I owe all you guys for the help thus far is a few photos.

I've been putting this off/procrastinating for a while as I know from the other side that it's going to be a bear (tires are 235/75 15 car ones so way too wide & this last one is a winter one with some real meat to the thing).  As incorrect tires go, it went pretty well in the end. Was a real PITA to mount the second bead as I expected but once on it pushed itself against the rim such that it's sealed well enough to stay tubeless for the moment which was a worry I'd had considering the wheels were intended for tube only. So that's 3 out of 4 aired up and happy.

DAMMIT site limit 2.0MB? I could'a sworn it was 3...

Just spent a while resizing stuff down to 3.0 but not sure if I can get them any smaller, more I shrink the image the size is going back up!

Hellacious wind last night and most of today, fence panels & wheelie bins flying past the window and all so not likely to do much on the old girl today. At least my old oil jug has stayed on the exhaust so far.

Don't British tractors have to be registered?  Most I've ever seen have number plate or equivalent on them.  Do they have to pass an MOT inspection to be registered?  Just curious!

Not to cast aspersions on Dan's mechanical talents (clearly he are!), but I think he has to go through the MOSW to register that one!

https://youtu.be/iV2ViNJFZC8?si=z-_OdAvdDEtr2C_K" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/iV2ViNJFZC8?si=z-_OdAvdDEtr2C_K

She came with a V5 (title) & her plate which she will proudly wear again one day is CKG 281   No MoT for agricultural tractors thankfully, and even if there were this would be exempted by being over 40 years old (there's a good one for you, car lasts someone 40 years and they no longer have to pass an MoT every year because it's obviously going to be just dandy condition from that point forward right? At least the tax is free then as well though...)

The only silly walks here are adequately provided for by government shaftings of taxation on damn near everything, they don't call the national TV station the BBC for nothing