D19 Diesel
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=200507
Printed Date: 09 Jun 2024 at 6:06pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D19 Diesel
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: D19 Diesel
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 6:11pm
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Neighbor bought a pretty nice D19 diesel with fresh paint, new tires, and supposedly had a engine rebuild. Started easily with a 30 second push on the manifold heater on our 44 degree chilly day. He asked me to come look at it because he thought the exhaust gasket was blown due to seeing some black exhaust blowing down on the side of the head/block. After it started I noticed it leaking diesel fuel around a fuel cell at cylinder 3. The copper sleeve next to the one I saw leaking had definitely been replaced. According to my manual it requires a special puller to remove it. Looking for some advice to the repair as I didn’t have to do any repair on my D17 Diesel fuel cells. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 6:54pm
 ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 6:31am
| I was always taught to NEVER disassemble an energy cell if it isn't leaking. So, as a result, I've never had one apart. I understood it to require "lapping" the energy cell to the head pocket ?? and then lap the cap to the energy cell for good sealing. You might try to overtorque the retaining bolts a bit to see what happens. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 9:32pm
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Thanks Doc, I will try that but it’s leaking pretty good. Sure hope that’s all it is. My factory repair manual does not go into detail of how to repair one that is leaking which I find quite odd. It mentions lapping and the removal tool but that’s pretty much it. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2024 at 7:40pm
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Neighbor dropped off his D19 this afternoon so I began to remove the exhaust and intake manifolds to gain access the the leaking fuel cell. Torque values were correct so I didn’t get lucky. So I loosened the flanges and was shocked that the “cap” was such a loose fit, it almost dropped out on its own. Thinking I may have found the leak I looked at the energy cell face and found pits/dings from a tool, possibly from a screwdriver. So that’s were I’m assuming it’s leaking. With no history on this tractor I can only assume some head work was done and the cell was reinstalled with improper tools. The true fix would be to use the proper puller and replace the cell using the correct tools. Doesn’t appear to be a difficult job. In an earlier post I thought the cell beside it had been replaced but after that cap was removed they had put a copper sealing ring on the cap to stop the leak on that one. It wasn’t leaking fuel so I am assuming it solved that one. Not a good repair in my opinion as it pulls the plug .050” away from the energy cell. I also noticed that cap and cell was wet and not dry like the one beside it meaning it may not be burning the fuel correctly due to the washer. With that being said, finding a correct lapping tool to try to clean up the damage while in the head or should I try to replicate a 85 year old energy cell puller and replace it? Parts are still available, I ordered 2 new caps today. Your input is appreciated ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2024 at 7:41pm
  ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: ac-mike
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2024 at 8:45am
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It is true, if not necessary leave them alone. Most people have different levels of necessary, You do not have that choice. These cells are not hard to reseat. I refuse to rebuild a head without removing the cells and cleaning all areas involved. To seat the caps to the cell you will need valve lapping compound and a way to rotate the cap. I believe the proper way is to use a valve lapping tool. I never had any luck getting the suction cup to hold to the cap so I made a tool to attach to the cap with a 1/4 screw. Most of the newer caps are tapped off center to attach a puller to pop them out. That is the same hole I use to attach my tool. If the threaded hole is missing than I have to drill and tap the cap. I then use a short piece of tubing between the adapter and electric drill so that it will align cap to cell. Slowly rotate forward and reverse, using the lapping compound, until the surfaces are mated. If I can offer you more info about this, let me know. ------------- D-12III, 200D, 170G, HD-3, D19D 3pt, D17D High Crop, WD45G p/s, D15IID, D15IIG, D15G IND, 655, (3)WD45D p/s, 700, 816 |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2024 at 1:02pm
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Thanks Mike, I sent you a pm. Robbie ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2024 at 10:50pm
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After further investigation I now have 3 cell caps leaking. Whom ever rebuilt the head sure did damage the cell faces. Looks like he reinstalled the cells with a punch. Ordered 3 new caps and will make a lapping tool and cross my fingers I can lap the damage out or else all 3 cells will need to be replaced. Thanks Mike for the info as I begin the repair. Will let you know the results when I get done with it. Also sand blasting the original air filter assembly, paint it, and reinstall as the previous owner put a K&N style filter on the end of the brand new turbo. New rebuilt engine wont last long with that on it as my neighbor plans to use it to ted and rake hay with it. Kind of excited to work on the cells as I have never had to mess with them before. Also ordered a 7/8" fine thread bolt in case I have to pull the cells. Will drill and tap it for a slide hammer to remove the cells if need be. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2024 at 5:55am
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This thread might be a candidate to be transferred to Knowledge Base. Although I have never worked on one of these diesels, I appreciate you guys sharing your experience!
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Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2024 at 2:45pm
| Were you able to get parts. Think we have them, and studs |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2024 at 8:55pm
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Yes, they are in route. Sending you a PM Mike. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |