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D21 series I

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=198592
Printed Date: 14 May 2024 at 2:59am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: D21 series I
Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Subject: D21 series I
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2023 at 3:15pm
My D21 has set for a few years. And I went ahead and changed all the fluids and the fuel in the tank. Put in new fuel filters, put in new batteries.
And tried to start it. It turns over fine. But I discovered a small leak in the fuel line leading to the injector pump. replace that sleve. I pumped the pump quite a few times but it's not starting doesn't seem to be getting fuel. What might I have to do to make sure the fuel is getting into the injector pump and lines to the injectors. Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2023 at 3:53pm
Usually a Roosa pump like this gets the plungers stuck when sitting in old fuel. Typically they need properly disassemble and cleaned up and recalibrated and tested. Modern fuel does not sit and age well. 

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2023 at 4:16pm
It's a STANADYNE pump.Does that maKe a difference?


Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2023 at 5:02pm
Stanadyne / Roosa - same thing. 

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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2023 at 10:47pm
i think it says, Roossamaster by Stanadyne.....
if it's been a few years there's a good chance it has biodiesel in it. THAT IS BAD FOR SETTING!!


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2023 at 12:57am
Does the electric shut off "click" when you turn the key on/off ??   A trained ear can hear that device on the pump to know if it is functioning or not.


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2023 at 11:11am
Yes, it does click when you turn it on and when you turn it off.Does that mean anything about the pump?Thank's Dwight


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2023 at 11:29am
Should I take the nut loose on the number 6 cylinder injector, Which is the furthest from the pump and continue to try to pump the priming pump to see if I can get fuel that far until it starts leaking out?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2023 at 12:06pm
Yeah. See if it will start on 5 cylinders first and then shut it off and tighten up the nut.


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2023 at 1:22pm
Now I'm trying to put my pump back on, but it will go as far as being 3/8. inch from the housing cannot find anything that could possibly be causing it. Has anyone had this problem? I left the shaft in the tractor, but greased it up real well.Seems like the key on the side of the cone inside the pump is a larger than the key way in the inside of the shaft. Could they have replaced that part inside the pump when they rebuild it? Thanks Dwight


Posted By: d17brown
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 11:43am
take, the side inspection plate off of the pump. do you have fuel running out

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phil


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 12:07pm
Was a recent post about installing pump on a similar tractor. Think the approach was to remove front gear cover at pump to help handle install.


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 10:29pm
Thank you, Steve very much, that looks like the problem. I'll attempt it that way, but it sure had me stumped at the time. Appreciate the help thanks.


Posted By: 55allis
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 11:58pm
DONT force it on!!!!!!
Did the shaft come out of the pump?
If it did it will only go on in one position.
I made the mistake of thinking it was right and than went to start it and the pump pretty much exploded the guts…
Had to find another pump which are very hard to come by..

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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 9:43am
Check out Wendell's post on D21


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 11:08am
55 it sounds like the magnets had moved out of position.was the throttle wired back?


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2023 at 10:17pm
I hope you had marks lined up in timing window on #1 compression stroke before pulling pump and then never turned engine before install attempt. Otherwise your going to have many more questions.


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2023 at 6:48pm
No I did not lineup the timing window. I had done it a few years ago and put it right back together. And it slipped right on and worked fine. So I didn't think about that this time. And also the guy that rebuilt my pump came out to help me lineup the splines and keyway in the shaft. And we couldn't get it so he had me turn the tractor over. Sounds like what you're saying not to do I did.. The tractor engine is turned and the and the lines weren't lined up in the injector pump. So, what am I looking forward to now? If you could tell me please thanks Dwight.


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2023 at 7:03pm
I would loosen #1 injector by removing the hold down bolts, spray some soapy water around the foam seal - turn the engine over til it bubbles then contintue to the corroect timing mark on the front pulley BTDC - this asures you are on compression - then look through the #1 hole in the head of the pump after removing the banjo bolt and line and turn the pum until you see the round hole start to show in the hole where the bolt came out. This will be approx #1 where the mark should have been on the gov ring. pump turns the same way as the engine. Now install the pump after reinstalling everything and leaving a line loose at one injector to bleed. IF you have no marks you will have to guess at the timing.  When you nail the throttle and it 'pings' it is too advanced - if sluggish and no 'crack' at throttle up - too slow. If it runs hot afterward - too advanced - too much smoke - too slow.  Country boy fix when the specs ain't there and you don't want to have it redone correctly.   

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..


Posted By: 55allis
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2023 at 8:59pm
Should be timing marks on the gears if you pull the cover off…

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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2023 at 11:34pm
Tbran's advice will get you there. If it starts and runs you could then check the timing window marks VS degrees on balancer to see how close you are. You will have to know how many degrees advanced the timing is for that engine/pump. It's just easier to do things in order.


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 6:38am
Thanks everybody I'll have to try it.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 6:56am
D-21 timing is 34 degrees BTDC, clearly marked on the crankshaft pulley. At this number the two marks inside the pump window should be aligned. 


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 10:53am
Lets hope the rubber inside the balancer ring is in good shape and hasn't slipped throwing off the timing marks.


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2024 at 8:59pm
Page 1


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2024 at 10:11pm
so whats the UPDATE, Dwight ?

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2024 at 10:14pm
Originally posted by Dwight from Orlando Dwight from Orlando wrote:

Page 1
SOOOO....did you get it figured out?


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2024 at 9:22am
Sorry it took so long to respond but I had to get my slab and footer built for my building. I was gonna use my D21 with a front end loader to move dirt. But I didn't make it in time. So I have now gotten back to working on the tractor and have removed the front gear and was able to get the injector pump on. I've set the Timeing on the crank to 34° before top dead center. And in the viewing window on the injector pump, I lined up to the 2 lines. The key in the injector Is at just below 3 o'clock so I looked at the shaft thats coming out of the tractor and I moved the tractor engine around until it came to 34° before top dead center, and then Looked at at the shaft in the spline was 180° off, so I turned it to just below 3 o'clock. Just like the pump key. that's how I figured my timing without removing and using soap bubbles on the number one that it must be in the compression stroke. Because the alignment with the pump and the key inside the pump at 3 o'clock. So I'm hoping that is right. Do you guys have any comments on that ?


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 9:14pm
Thanks for all the help.


Posted By: Dwight from Orlando
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2024 at 4:28pm
When a series I Allis D21 loses fluid from the trans and diff, does it most often come from the Trans front seal? Thanks Dwight



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